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knight_toolworks
04-27-2008, 09:25 PM
had a email from a trade show guy that needs cardboard cut double fluted cardboard approx 5/16 thick. Also have honeycomb board projects that require cutting into various thicknesses of honeycomb.
any idea's? I know the edge needs to be crisp on the cardboard.

stevem
04-28-2008, 09:18 AM
Die cutter.

chodges
04-28-2008, 10:08 AM
We do this all the time with our laser, but we are limited to 2' x 3' (the size of our machine bed). Works great, doesn't burn, very crisp edges.

I would think a die cutter would work great too.

erik_f
04-28-2008, 10:12 AM
I don't see why you couldn't do it. I'm sure you could fly through it also. Do couple of test runs...MDF is really thick cardboard and people use that all the time!

knight_toolworks
04-28-2008, 12:06 PM
a die cutter? that is just a large sharp stamp right?
thee are parts that are all different I think cut from 4'x6' sheets.

gabepari
04-28-2008, 01:26 PM
Steve, I cut cardboard all the time. Mainly for full scale "shadow" templates for layout and such. Also for school projects for my kids


I've never needed to have a sharp edge, so I just cut it with a standard straight bit. A nice sharp down cut would probably work pretty good.

You might be better off sub'ing it out to someone with a laser though...

Gabe

knight_toolworks
04-28-2008, 02:21 PM
this would be too big to do on anything but an industrial laser and that would cost too much.
I am thinking of using a 1/2" piece of drill rod mill a flat on it and a channel to fit a exacto blade and see if I can cut it with a knife.

paco
04-28-2008, 02:25 PM
Gabe,

is your cut of cardboard with a router bit sill look and feel acceptable? Do you happen to have pictures?

So far I've cut disposable templates from whatever crating Masonite I recycle but heck, if I can use cardboard just as well!

Thanks in advance.

gabepari
04-28-2008, 03:18 PM
It is very "fuzzy" on the edges. Any templates that need to be traced I cut from tempered hardboard (masonite). The cardboard is just for silly interior designers to get an idea on how big something is or for office layouts.

Like I said, I haven't experimented with trying to get a clean cut in cardboard, mainly because I don't need it.

I have noticed that cardboard is very abrasive and tends to kill the bits I use, so I mostly use bits that are already dull, making the fuzz worse.

Good luck on the razor blade idea, sort-a like a giant vinyl cutter


Gabe

scott_smith
04-28-2008, 06:28 PM
I’ve cut cardboard samples for our packaging guys with the Bot and a ¼” bit. It worked but very fuzzy edges. Depending on quantity and shape you could rig up a sharpie marker to the Bot and cut on the lines with a razor knife. If the X-Acto knife thing works defiantly let us know.

magic
04-29-2008, 06:10 PM
I've cut cardboard into the shapes for custom boxes. I have to use a 1/16 bit and even then there is some sanding involved.

I vote laser cut OR if you can use a sheer with a open throat, that will give you a cleaner edge.

knight_toolworks
04-29-2008, 10:10 PM
so far no bits cut clean. A fellow told me to get a exacto handle and just chuck it. but it will need a little trail to get it to turn. but I think it will not be accurate enough. the customer wants 50 of these to stack and glue up to get a 1' thickness g. so they need to be accurate.

chiloquinruss
04-29-2008, 10:33 PM
How about a Xacto Swivel Blade in the holder?
http://www.craft-supplies-online.com/productdetail.asp?item_nbr=200-245
Russ

knight_toolworks
04-30-2008, 01:05 AM
the knife needs some trail so it will turn. I tired it straight down and the knife would not swivel very well and the blade would flex.
but I discovered my bandsaw cuts cardboard far better. it has a used blade and with a new one it may do pretty cleanly.
I just have to see if i can fit the piece in my saw it is a 4' G that will be 1' thick. the thick part i not the issue.

eaglesplsh
04-30-2008, 11:47 PM
It seems to me that cutting corrugate is basically like cutting thin sheets that are hanging in the middle of the air. I imagine that's why the spiral bits are leaving a fuzzy edge. They're not able to compress the top/bottom laminate against a backing.

Has anyone tried a straight flute bit - like woodworking routers usually come with? I also wonder if you couldn't make a "reverse compression bit cut." Mill your spoil board flat. Put down your cardboard and on top of the cardboard put down some solid material - MDF or hardboard... Maybe use a brad nailer to hold it all together. Then make a 1st pass half way through with an up-cut spiral bit, pulling the top layer of cardboard against the MDF. Make a second pass that cuts the rest of the way through using a down-cut spiral bit, forcing the bottom layer of cardboard into the spoilboard.

Sounds like you need a lot of duplicate layers. If the reverse compression idea had any merit perhaps you could leave tabs that hold the MDF top sheet together so it could be reused.

Then again, maybe I'm just full of bologna!


Interesting challenge.

knight_toolworks
05-01-2008, 12:18 AM
I tried a 1/4" straight bit a single flute the edge looked the same as all of the other bits I tried. this is one job I just can't do and the customer will have them cut on a waterjet.
frustrating when you can't do the job.

knight_toolworks
05-02-2008, 01:56 AM
a friend was somewhat describing how this place made cardboard boxes all he said was they made a template on the cnc machine then used a razor blade to guide it.
so here is my idea the first pic is what I want. the second shows the loops that turns the knife to make the 90 degree angles. they will have tabs so the knife lifts out of the cardboard but follows the template sitting on top of the cardboard. I left them out to show how the knife travels. I would use a 3/64" bit to cut the slot the pic shows a 1/4" so you can see the line better.


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