idea's on how to cut these.

[knight_toolworks]

the pdf shows flat panels with a beveled edge, without the bevel it would be dirt easy. but with it I have to work the idea more.
I will be using 1? and 3/4" ultralight mdf.
the way I am thinking is to put two sheets of the 1" on the table screw the parts together. and to cut them I would make the toolpath so the line where they are devided will be right at the edge of the material. then I extend the part past the edge a bit. this way I can cut it out only with the tapered bit but not cut the part I need flat where they butt together. otherwise I would have to change bits to get that flat on each cut.
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1939753/Best%20Buy-%20Jantzen%20Beach-%20RB2195%20Molds.pdf

[pappybaynes]

Steve,
I didn't see the PDF

[knight_toolworks]

oops fixed.

[blackhawk]

Steve - How big is your machine? That largest one is over 6 feet in both directions.

[knight_toolworks]

if it was big it would be easy standard 4x8

[tmerrill]

Without 3D ability you can use the fluting tool for the angled sides and a pocket for the center.

If I did the math right you would need a linear flute along a vector length of 0.175" for a 5 degree slope. More math would be required for proper outer dimensions. Machining time will be high.

Best solution is get someone to model outer area as 3D using offset toolpath and pocket the center.

[knight_toolworks]

these are not hollow. they are a 2" platform on a flat base. so they are simple to cut. but the outside bevel makes it more of a pain since the pieces are too large to cut out in one piece.

[bleeth]

Steve:
The easiest thing to do is to get a custom tool ground with a flat plunging bottom, built in draft angle, and the roundover. Makes the whole project easy as can be.

[blackhawk]

Steve - I was thinking along the same lines as Dave. I found a 3º tapered square bottom bit here http://cuttingtoolsource.com/cart/index.php?cPath=29. I don't know anything about this company, but they have one bit on this page with a 2" length of cut, which seems perfect.

My strategy for those big pieces would be to machine 1/2 at a time. I would glue the two 1" pcs of mdf together to make a 1/2 piece, but leave out the 3/4" piece. Then use the tapered endmill to cut out the outside profile. Once you have both halves machined of the 2" glue up, then glue these pieces onto the 3/4" halves. I would make the seam for the 2" glue up turned 90º from the 3/4" seam. After all this is setup, I would take a hand router to do the 1/2" roundover. The roundover wouldn't be a perfect blend since you have the tapered sides, but you could do some finesse with a sanding block.

[knight_toolworks]

brad that's what I was planning. though I will just screw the two sheets together cut them then take them apart and glue them up. otherwise I have to move the material twice as much.
if they were not so big I would just cut them oversize glue them and cut them all at once. mcmaster has a 2" tapered bit. 75.00 each but I quoted two of them in the price.
bondo fixes any gaps and sanding gets things flush and I would just do the round over by hand. I have a sign that's made the same way that is 10' long to do too.