Making a jewelry box advice needed

[myxpykalix]

here is one idea of how to do it that i was thinking....any other ideas welcome..

[Gary Campbell]

Jack...
Use a 91 degree miter fold bit, not a 90 degree V bit. Different bits for different jobs.

The v cuts have to be made from the inside

inside of piece has to be "level" with bed

[myxpykalix]

Yes in case you couldn't tell from my fantastic artwork the 3 or 4 90 degree cuts would be from the opposite side from the carving front. And what i was thinking was some type of moulding profile type curves on the outside with a carving in the design areas.

I don't know what a "a 91 degree miter fold bit" what is the difference? Why can't you use a 90 vbit? thanks..

[Gary Campbell]

Jack...

See Miterfold bit here: http://www.toolstoday.com/p-5671-v-groove-miter-fold-signmaking-cnc.aspx

Try the V bit and report back. Then try a miter saw. The proper tool for the job.

Vbits usually are not a perfect point on the bottom. Miterfold are.

Old trim guys know to overcut an outside corner by 1/2 degree so that glue swelling of thicker part of the miter doesnt push the points open.

[myxpykalix]

makes sense about the joint not fitting properly...that was what i figured silicone caulk was for, to hide my mistakes but i can't do that here. I think i might change the design before i pay $50+ for a bit i'll use seldom.

[Gary Campbell]

jack, Jack, Jack...

You didnt look down to the proper bit. It's $134+ Its true. Hobbyist and occasional users cant afford the best of bits for small jobs. Professional users cant afford not not to buy them

[michael_schwartz]

Why not just cut the miters on the table saw, and then use a spline miter joint.

[myxpykalix]

Gary, someones "moniker" at the bottom here reads..."I can't afford cheap tools" and that is so true. And normally when it comes to tools I am "pennywise but pound foolish" hence the 15G toy in my shop.

[srwtlc]

You could try a lock miter bit on a router table. Back up the cut to limit tearout.

[adrianm]

Scott beat me to it. I do a lot of boxes and I swear by the CMT locking bit.

I can cut the pieces on the tablesaw and produce the joint on the router table in less time than it would take to set the material on the 'Bot and set the file running.

This is the best description I've seen of the bit, it certainly got me up and running very quickly.

http://www.woodshopdemos.com/cmt-lm1.htm
(http://www.woodshopdemos.com/cmt-lm1.htm)

[matt_zettl]

Jack,

I have made many boxes using the technique you are describing. I would respectfully disagree with Gary on the 91 degree miter fold bit, and I disagree with him fully appreciating his vast experience and expertise. The only reason that I disagree is that I have specific experience with the exact bit he recommends, the Amana 91 degree from Toolstoday.

I tried this bit using hardwoods like bubinga, wenge, maple, etc. In every case, there was a gap on the inside of the joint that was unacceptable. I spoke with a tech rep at Amana, and he told me that this bit was designed to be used by sign and display makers for HDU and similar materials. He further explained that it was designed to purposely leave a gap that would be filled with adhesive. After explaining my use of the bit, and my desire to have no gap at all, he recommended the 90 degree bit. Toolstoday excahnged the bits for me at no charge - kudos to them. The 90 degree bit perfroms flawlessly, perfect joints each time. So, in my experience with dense hardwoods, the 90 is superior to the 91.

I have also used the 90 degree miter lock on the router table. Set up is a bit fussy to get a perfectly aligned joint, but once you understand the process, it becomes much easier. This joint, of course, is much stronger and the glue up requires clamps. With the miter fold, I just use reinforced strapping tape - quick and easy. With small boxes not subject to a lot of stresses, I have found the miter fold joint to be of sufficient strength.

I hope this helps.

Matt

[bleeth]

For all those using the lock miter bit I have to tell you I totally agree it is a great bit and I have used it a lot. For doing a jewelry box for a friend setting it up is a bit of a pain for a few inches of run but it can be worth it for the overall appearance. As of course, a great looking well made dovetail would be.
Funny enough though, the biggest raves I ever got for a jewelry box made for a family member was a basic chopsaw cut 45 joint on a lacewood box and then corner kerfs with purple heart inserts. Easiest joint of all and none of them could get over how "special" it looked.
A definate reminder of "K I S S"

[myxpykalix]

What is the saddest part of all this is i have a nice router table and fence that will do stuff like this and i can't seem to get it to do what i want.
I would like to get more info from those of you who have done boxes. This seems like elementary woodworking 101 but i think i need more advice and insight.

[bleeth]

I could be wrong Jack but I think it could very well be that in many ways all you need to really do is what many of us have. Screw it up several times until you get it right and learn the hard way that school is not free!!!

[myxpykalix]

Dave..realistically speaking you are correct but then you need to look at it like I am doing you all a favor by letting you show me how smart you guys really are. lol

Also i think i need to start simple maybe with flat face designs and square corners and get a little more experience before moving on to the more elaborate designs.
Do you have any pictures or designs for inspiration? thanks buddy......

[srwtlc]

Jack,

Another way about it would be to set up an over the end of the table jig much like a dovetail jig and cut the ends of the board there with the mating piece flat on the table.

Example urns...

[srwtlc]

One more....toughest one I ever made!

[myxpykalix]

Scott those are absolutely beautiful. I have those plastic jigs to make the joints like you made on your boxes i'll have to dig them out and try them again. Beautiful inspiration.
How did you make your boxes?

[srwtlc]

Jack, the joints were done on the bot with a jig that overhangs the end of the table. The ends of the front and back are cut standing on end clamped in this jig (see attached). The ends are cut lying flat on the table as normal. All toolpaths for the joints and v-carving were done in VCP/Aspire. The top and bottom were cut on a shaper. The tops are glued on and the bottoms have countersunk screws for attaching the bottom after the ashes are put in. Two coats of conversion varnish to finish them up.

Thanks for the compliments.

Scott