About to do first 3D

[lrheimpel]

Hello everyone,

Looking for tips as I am about to cut my first full 3D piece on both sides.

I have a buddy BT48 with PartWorks2.5 and PartWorks3D. The model intended to be cut is the leaf plate that comes with the software.

I already cut the top side of the leaf on a 7x7x 3/4 scrap piece. It took under 30 minutes with no rough cutting and a 1/8 ball nose bit (comes with the start up kit).

Now I want to do it on a 10x10x2 inch block of pine. PartWorks3D tells me it is going to take ~4 hours on each side even when rough cutting with a 1/4 bit. Most of the time is due to the finishing path. Sounds like a lot compared with the smaller one sided cut ???? The thickness of the plate is to be 1 1/2.

When cutting in 3D, what is the criteria for selecting a bit? 1/8 vs say 1/4 nose bit. Is using a 1/4 bit twice as fast as a 1/8 bit? Which one is better to be used assuming the detail allows either one?

[cowboy1296]

i am interested in your 3d question response also. i cut my first one yesterday. we have all seen it before and it looks like the stagecoach and horses that are the logo for wells fargo bank. rough cut was some what fast.

my bowl 3d cut was 6 inches tall and roughly 22 inches long cut into solid oak and .544 inches deep.
my feed rate was set at 2.0 inches ps
my pass depth was .09 inch
router speed 13000 on porter cable router
stepover was 8% or .01 inch
using 1/8 inch onsrud bit 77-102

the end result was great but the finishing tool path took over 3 hours. can anyone think of how i could have speeded up the finishing tool path and maintained a good finish?

i did not use the final 90 degree cut but on the computer it seemed to take a long time also. is there anyway to use the second cut but speed it up?

[garnica]

Hi everyone, I know that my question is different that the one you are asking, but I've been having a communication problem with my B48 for a couple of weeks, at this time I already go back to my initial setting, in fact I already change my computer. I was running partworks V2.0 and try to run partworks V2.5 but i had to change the control software and here is where I like to know what version are you running and if you have any problem with this version.

I really appreciate your help.

[bob_reda]

As far as speeding up 3d work, just remember, you can set it for 1000ips and it will go only as fast as the slowest axis(usually the z speed) The bigger the piece the bigger the bit you can use for the finish. As far as the leaf, if I remember correctly it does not contain a lot of fine detail, so a 1/4" round over will work fine. As far as the stagecoach goes, if you want really fine detail a 1/8"bn is needed. Also watch you z clearance, once again the z goes up and down the clearance and its the slowest axis, just clear your workpiece a little. For fine detail 3-4 hours for a piece that size is not unreasonable.

Bob

[blackhawk]

Luis - The time estimated in the software is not always the true cutting time. The estimated time is multiplied by a factor that you can change. You have to cut something and actually time how long it took. Then go into the software and play with that multiplication factor until the software time matches the actual time. Usually 3D work, 2D work, and V carving have different multiplication factors.

If you change from an 1/8" bit to a 1/4" bit the time will be roughly twice as fast, if your stepover % doesn't change. For example, if you have a 1/8" bit with a 10% stepover, it will move .0125". If you have a 1/4" bit with a 10% stepover, it will move .025". So, you should get close to twice as fast a cutting time. Now, if I use a 1/4" bit and set a 5% stepover, the bit is now moving .0125", so it would cut the same as the 1/8" with a 10% stepover. Play around with the stepover and find a good balance between cutting time and detail.

As Bob mentions, you can also try to keep your clearance Z as low as possible. This shortens the amount of time needed to raise and lower the bit.

I also mainly raster cut my 3D pieces in the Y direction. That way you are only moving in the Y axis at speed. The X-axis is just doing the stepover portion. With the Y axis, you only have to move the router and carriage, not the entire Y gantry. I can increase my cutting speed this way.

[cowboy1296]

you echoed what i thought that i knew. the detail turned out real good. once i have finished it i will post a picture. next question would be if it were for sale and this one is not what would you charge. i am retired and on a pension and i dont need the profit to live on but i dont want to give it away either. i will watch my z and chances are had it high.

[lrheimpel]

Rick, Bob and Brad:

Thank you for your comments, I'll experiment with what you guys said.

[cowboy1296]

I learned somethings and remembered some old. After i cut the sign I let numerous people examine it. needless to say oily residue was left behind. this one is not for sale but more of a prototype. plus i need to improve my finishing with stain and poly.

the board is oak, 1.4 inches thick, and 8x24 making the bowl roughly 6x22. the depth of cut is just over .5 inches.

Here is the question. If it were for sale what would be a reasonable price.