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handh
03-10-2007, 12:02 AM
I had the local chamber of commerence call me today asking me to build them a rack to hold business cards. Has anybody done one or have any ideas on making somthing with the shopbot.

Mayo
03-10-2007, 12:29 AM
How many cards does it have to hold?
Is it a counter top display or a wall mounted item?
Would it be free standing on a post of some sort?

handh
03-10-2007, 11:51 AM
It is to be wall mounted. It has to hold 60 cards.

rookie432
03-10-2007, 01:25 PM
Two basic ideas come to mind.

1) just design a plaque with 60 pockets the size of the business cards.

2) design a plaque that has horizontal pockets the width of the plaque and the height of a businees card. At the bottom edge of the pocket apply a thin strip of wood or material that just slightly overlaps the pocket. You can slide the cards in from the edge along the groove. Think of how the channel letter signs work at the gas stations. The ones they use to change the daily price of gas.

The plaque can be any shape you think of.

Hope this helps.

Bill

john_l
03-10-2007, 01:27 PM
I was about to start laying out the exact same thing here in the next week or so. If anyone has a file or design of one they have done it might save me some work also. Thanks.. john(at)signtruck(dot)com

rcnewcomb
03-10-2007, 03:14 PM
A variation on Bill's idea:
1. Use and end mill to pocket out and area slightly SMALLER than the cards. (3.25x1.875)
2. Pocket out an area across the top of each card slot to make room to slide that card into the slot
3. Use a keyhole or slotting bit to machine alone the vactor of each card slot. This will undercut to make room for the card.

I've attached an example part wizard file in ZIP format.




Business Card Wall Mount - 60 cards

2492 (7.5 k)

handh
03-11-2007, 03:46 AM
Thanks Randall, One question that I have is on Step 3 when using a keyhole bit to machine alone the vector how do you make sure that the bit starts in the clear area. I am new at doing the toolpaths and I don't know the best way to do this. Thanks again

rcnewcomb
03-11-2007, 03:44 PM
>how do you make sure that the bit starts
I was thinking about that myself.

You can use node editing in part wizard to indicate the start of a vector. (Brady has a wonderful video on Part Wizard)

I joined the vectors to be a bit more efficient for machining

I also created an offset inward to be used by the keyhole bit and chose lead-in on the toolpath so the bit would move from the inside of the design to the toolpath.

I've attached an updated file.

I haven't cut this nor even previewed the toolpath so please review it before you use it and make whatever changes are required for your setup.

Version 2 Business Card Plaque
BusCardHolder.zip (http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/messages/2/BusCardHolder-19197.zip) (15.1 k)

Mayo
03-12-2007, 12:49 AM
Here's several ideas already being produced for business card racks. This will give you ideas what they are selling for as well....
http://www.onlineorganizing.com/ProductsPage.asp?name=Oak_Business_Card_Wall_Rack

handh
04-14-2007, 07:50 PM
Randall,

Thanks for all of your help in getting me started, after several tries and mods I finally finished the card rack today. I am going to false finish and paint the lettering sometime next week, I am practicing on a pc of scrap mdf right now.


2493


2494

This is the first sign type project that I have completed. Thanks to all for the help and suggestions.

handh
04-14-2007, 08:06 PM
One more note about the card rack, each slot will hold about 20 cards. The sign turned out to be 28" wide x 46" high and I made it out of 3/4 lightweight MDF. They had me put our company name on it for ad since we are donating it. This is a cut off from the 1st one that I tried, the card slots were not large enought to get the cards in and out, my lettering was not right and we just redesign a few other things and made it a little more decorative.

Here is a picture of the practice stain that we might use. Haven't done the lettering yet. I used a base coat of yellow oxide stain from Sherwin Williams then a sealer coat of lacquer and then a custom stain mix that we use on top and then a couple coats of lacquer.


2495

andre
04-14-2007, 08:28 PM
Jeff nice Job
If you dont mind me asking, how did you accomplish the back cut slot to hold the cards?

handh
04-14-2007, 08:35 PM
Andre,

I used a Whiteside Tee Slot Bit 5/8" Cutting Diameter 1/4" Shank, I had to made 2 passes to get the right depth because the cutter is only a little over 1/8" high. I purchased it from Woodcraft and there number is 128256. One thing nice about the bit it is undercut on the shaft right above the cutting portion and works great for tool pathing, I didn't have to worry about clearance for the bit shaft.

andre
04-14-2007, 08:47 PM
how about when pulling up did you just extend the toolpath beyond the vector so as not to cut through when pulling up?

handh
04-14-2007, 09:25 PM
I did a 1" lead in and lead out. Here is a screen shot of the toolpath.


2496

andre
04-14-2007, 09:45 PM
Right on
i just started using my new prs alpha and am learning a lot, I think I may try something like this.
Thanks Jeff!

myxpykalix
04-14-2007, 10:26 PM
Now that is really cool and a clever idea to keyhole cut the holders. Good Job!!

myxpykalix
04-14-2007, 10:38 PM
A couple questions..looking at your toolpath above compared to the finished piece, the toolpath looks like it is just for the keyhole cutting for the slots is that right?
If so it looks like you just cut out a long rectangle on top to make room for the fingers to reach for cards right?
Looks like you used some type of roman orgy bit around the edges?

handh
04-14-2007, 10:44 PM
Jack,
The screen shot is just for the toolpath for the keyhole bit. I used a 3/8 compression bit for the area clear for the finger slot (the long rectangle on top) and card slot before I ran the keyhole bit. I didn't have a roman ogee or orgy as you said LOL. What I did was run a toolpath with my vcarve bit around the finger slot and then on the card slot I ran a 1/8 end mill for a bit of decoration.

myxpykalix
04-15-2007, 01:38 AM
did you have to offset that by an 1/8th" when you ran the 1/8 endmill for the decoration?

rustnrot
04-15-2007, 10:14 AM
When you all change tools like this how do you make sure that the new bit is in the same position as the old one, use the z-zero plate somehow?

handh
04-15-2007, 12:11 PM
Jack,
Yes that's what I did.

handh
04-15-2007, 12:12 PM
Tom,

I just used the z-zero plate during each tool change.

jhicks
04-15-2007, 01:24 PM
Jeff, Nice MDF finish. I like the techniques and overall strategy you used to make it all come together. creative use of the tool kit.

handh
04-15-2007, 08:41 PM
Thanks Jerry,

Here is a picture of the sample that I did now with the glazing on it with the lettering glazed as well. What do you guys think, I'm trying to get the aged look.



2497

jhicks
04-15-2007, 08:46 PM
I think its fantastic especially for MDF. I'm inspired

myxpykalix
04-15-2007, 09:33 PM
From the picture its hard to tell if it looks aged but it sure does look "rich". When i did the same thing on one of my projects i got more of a woodgrain texture but that was because i was using a previously used (semi stiff) brush and not a very good rag for wiping up excess. This looks like it is more evenly applied and wiped off.
What did you use to apply and wipe off with?

handh
04-15-2007, 09:59 PM
Thanks Jerry,

Jack, I used a brush to apply the yellow oxide and then wiped off the excess with a rag and then I sprayed a coat of lacquer. After that dried I applied a brown stain mix with a rag and wiped off the excess very lightly to even up the color and while it was still wet I applied a dark stain mix with a stiff brush using a dry brushing technique, what I mean by this is there is very little stain on the brush and I go in one direction to create the grain effect. After this dries I sprayed 2 coats of lacquer and then after that dried I put van dyke brown glaze in the lettering and also on the top and then wipe off the excess to even it out some and then 1 final coat of lacquer to seal the glaze. It looks even better in real life, my photography is really back, the flash on my camera washes some of the detail out.

myxpykalix
04-16-2007, 12:29 AM
Jeff,
That sounds great and i have an idea. Next time you do a finish like that take your camera and at each stage take a picture. I think that would make a GREAT tutorial and it looks like you have it down pat. The only thing lacking might be a sentence or two about your application technique or a picture of the type of brushes and rags for application. Good job

handh
04-16-2007, 08:39 AM
Jack,

I will do the actual sign sometime this week and I will try to do that and get it up sometime next week.

butch
04-16-2007, 09:00 AM
Thanks Jeff and Randall - great information. Sure helps me.