depth of toolpaths

[plastics]

I'm cutting 1/4" cuts 1" on center of a 8' 2x6. Cutting on the 1 1/2 side 1" down.

My question, is there another way of changing the toolpaths so it does not "jog back"? Instead I want it to plunge to the next depth and then so on at the other end. I have to do 75 of these stacked 28 side-by-side.

I have already went in and changed each toolpath, I was wondering if there is a quicker way?

[ron_moorehead]

I am not sure what software your using but in most you would set one line to cut as a climb cut and the next line as a conventional cut so ever other line would cut as a climb cut or even line and the odd lines would be a conventional cut. Then I would create each line as a seperate profile cut and then order them in the way I want them cut when I create the cut file. Hope this helps.

[chiloquinruss]

I have found that when doing that type of cutting that if I draw one line headed north and then the next line headed south then copy and paste them that the toolpath does go back and forth. If I just copy the first line over and over it does jog back and forth. Russ

[oddcoach]

If you have the tool ramp into the work and make the ramp very long and set it to cut in one pass it should do what you want you could also try a spiral ramp. I have not tried that on a straight cut but it works on circles

[steve_g]

Justin:
I’m not sure this addresses your question or not, but here goes… the attached screen shot shows tool paths for two sets of parallel lines. The green dot at one end of each line is the starting point or node of that tool path. No matter where the router ends up when completing a cut, it will go to the starting point of a new line to begin the next cut. To change the starting point, you can select a node in node editing mode, right click and select “make start point” or use the shortcut “P”. You can use this method to optimize cutting path times or to force all paths to be cut in the same direction.

I apologize if I have misunderstood your question or level of comfort with the software. Also this is based on Partworks.

Steve

[cookie]

I think a way around this is a single line cut 1" deep is a pocket cut . Why not do a pocket cut instead of a profile cut.

[cookie]

I forgot to mention you have to draw rectangle instead of a line and then use a pocket cut.

[beacon14]

Often when wanting total control I will just draw a single segmented line that represents the actual path that I want the router to follow, and then use a Profile toolpath set on the line. Eliminating all those jogs up and down would save a lot of machining time.