primers? where to by

[fozzyber]

I'm looking into primers for signs, ie hdu, I can't seem to find a suppler for FSC-88 WB,,

also there was another primer I saw here but can't find again, it was like jay cooks sign primer.?

I am near Baton Rouge and my venders don't seem to carry anything.

any help here

jerry

[dvmike]

I get my FSC-88 from Piedmont Plastics in Greenville SC.
You may have a closer source at the following:

http://www.precisionboard.com/request_a_quote.php

[joe]

Jerry,

HDU is a challenging substrates to prepare for painting. Wish you were closer and I'd give you my FS 88. It's a thick laxtex, sandable paint. You can also use Kils or Zinser water base. They are just as good as FS 88.

If you have an automotive paint store near by, they will have the best ever HDU primer known as Caltalized High Build Primer. It will dry quickly and easily sand to a smooth surface. You can build up several coats, wet on wet. The HB primer is all I use.

Joe Crumley
www.normsignco.com (http://www.normsignco.com)

[fozzyber]

I used to used K36 (PPG) to fill the weave, when I was glassing wings for model RC I guess that would work, but I like the idea of water clean up.

[alcona_sign_shop]

I'm looking into primers for signs, ie hdu, I can't seem to find a suppler for FSC-88 WB,,

also there was another primer I saw here but can't find again, it was like jay cooks sign primer.?

I am near Baton Rouge and my venders don't seem to carry anything.

any help here

jerry
Hi Jerry,
After about 30 years of sign work, I suggest a premium latex on foam and what ever you want after that. Sikkins, Serwin Williams, etc., are all quality. We use Minwax clear, oil base on wood, but test any paint on your substrait before you put it on the real thing. Sometimes plaint has a material that will eat up foam, either PU or Styrene. Test Test Test. on all paints.
Bill Hastings, The alcona sign shop, 989-724-7222

[joe]

I think what Jerry needs advice for is a good primer that is available from local paint stores. Sikkens isn't a primer and common latex paints won't fill pinholes and is difficult to sand. Please review the post. These fellows need accurate advice to keep them from going down the wrong path.

Jerry,

Kils and Zinzer make waterbase and distilate primers. What you will do best with is the water soluable product. To prime a flat sheet of HDU it's possible to roll on a heavy prime, which will leave an ugly surface, and follow up by squeeging it down. This will leave the surface so smooth sanding won't be necessar. Even if there's dings in the surface, they will dissapear.

When priming 3D HDU I suggest spraying. It takes several coats. Once again, this product is the most difficult substrate on the market to smooth out.

Joe Crumley
www.normasnsigco.com (http://www.normasnsigco.com)

[dvmike]

I have started using a brand called AQUA LOCK. I think it's a Ben Moore product . You can get the primer in 3 types. I use the type that has heavy solids . It's like $28.00 per gallon here in western N.C. at Ace Hardware.

[joewino]

A primer is not needed for HDU other than making it smoother. Any paint will stick to the material.

We get FS88-WB from Graphic Solutions Group in Dallas. They ship, and since it is water based there is no problem with toxic charges.

[dakers]

I agree with Joe. we had the best visual and speed of production results using the cataylized high build primer from the auto paint store but we have a binks spray booth which takes the problems out of spraying the auto paints.
I agree with Raymond, we have made alot of hdu signs just shooting two component auto paint with no primer. I have attached two photos of HDU signs painted with auto enamel without primer that we did about 12 years ago. there were no issues except the color seemed duller than it would have with high build primer.

[dakers]

here is a photo of using both techniques on one sign we did.
spray inside background with matthews acrylic enamel with no primer to kind of keep it matte then use the high build on the letters and border to accept the gold and paladium leaf.

[joe]

For the Newbee,
HDU will accept most any kind of paint without pealing, blistering and coming off however, that does not mean primers are not to be used.
All manufactures I've tried, except DUNA, is grittttty. 15lb density foam is also fragile and you just about can't get a nice smooth surface with out a primer.
For crude work like woodgrain or other natural textures, a primer isn't necessary. However for delicate workmanship you'll need to fill those ugly pores. Don't even think of gilding without priming.



http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e115/jcrumley1/GalyeanGcopy.jpg

[fozzyber]

talked to one of my suppliers, (reece) and was told they might be able to get, FS88-WB, So I think I'm going to start off with that and see what happens,
thanks to all who posted, I do have an account with GSG, but don't use them much b/c I can't stand my rep. I might see if I can source it from them....


Thanks
Jerry