Damaged X Driver

[shuttle]

A wire to one of my X axis motors got caught on something and it looks like it shorted two wires, and now the motor no longer drives. It only makes noises when trying to move. I checked it on the other X axis wire and the motor is not damaged.
I assume the driver in the control box (PRT 96) has been damaged. I know there is a 5th channel in the control box, but how to set it up as the alternate X axis?
Is this an easy fix on the board, if I go that route?

Thanks, Rob S.

[kbraat]

I just had this same issue myself. I spoke to Frank at ShopBot and he pointed out that the easiest way is to switch the dip switches on the A channel to 1 to turn the drive into a X controller (this is assuming you have the older, non-4g board). You will lose access to the A driver for any other equipment, but it is cheaper than a new board to get you going.

[shuttle]

Thanks Kevin, I see 2 sets of dip switches for the 'A' channel, the text is very small on both.
Got any more info on this?

[kbraat]

Basically, Frank's instructions were to flip the switch from channel 4 to 1 in order to set up the drive as an x-drive from channel 1. Since the only difference between the two X drives is a change in the motor wiring to alter the direction (one moves clockwise and the other moves CCW), you have told the A channel to act as an x-channel. Plug your damaged channel cable in and go.

I'm still waiting to try it fully on mine, as my problem was a bit more serious than though. It seems both channels had some damage. Channel X-2 does nothing and I found a burn mark on the IC in channel X-1. X-1 seems to operate, but a new IC was only $3.58 at Digi-key, so I ordered the replacement parts and figured I would replace components on X-2 as well to see if I could get a fix. Parts should be here tomorrow.

My wiring was also damaged. I'm going to patch the current cables now, but I'm going to get new wiring. I also discovered the damaged Wago connectors can be ordered (since one was damaged when I purchased the used bot), so I'm going to get some of those. Heilend electronics sells Wago 231-104/037-000 and 231-604 which are the male and female connections used according to my local sales rep. I may order them as a trial replacement. Otherwise SB sells them for about $5 each or an entire cable assembly for $30. Just depends on how much DIY I feel like after the rest of the project.

I also am using this as an excuse to install e-chain and add plugs to the back for the e-stop and proximity switches using xlr connections. I may post some of the updates later on once they are done.

[shuttle]

Hi Kevin, thanks for the addional info.
I have attached a picture of my dipswitches because I'm not yet 100% clear of which is which. Cheers.

[kbraat]

Move the motor and pinion gear away from the rack on both sides of the x axis. Flip both dip switches to 1 and try to move the gantry in the x direction. One motor should spin CW and the other CCW. If all is good, then reconnect the motors and and off you go.

[steve4460]

I think it is dip switch number 2 0n both step and dir . Please check with shopbot to make sure your right .
We just had to do this to my buddy's bot , and I could swear it was number 2 fliped to ON on both .

[kbraat]

I would swear I flipped the DIP switches to 1. If one does not work, move both switches to 2. Easy enough to check both. I would power down the controller box before changing any settings however.

Unfortunately, my board had more problems than just one damaged channel, so I went to the 4g upgrade and can no longer check my older board.

[gerald_martin]

On standard configurations:

Channel 1 = X axis
Channel 2 = Y axis
Channel 3 = Z axis

Both switches need to be set to the same channel.