Flip Ops

[bill_lumley]

Well since I had so much success with Pocket Screws now it is time to explore the final frontier for me in my use of the Link (for now:)) . I am looking into making closet parts and the link is ideally suited for getting a custom part without the swiss cheese effect seen on factory parts . I am looking for some guidance on where to get info on how to use them and what things I need to consider before attempting them . Any tips on where to get info and things to watch out for would be appreciated . I currently don't use any alignment system on my table when setting up a new sheet . Is this sort of thing a must when doing this type of thing ?

Thanks in advance , Bill

Gary - If these are demonstrated in clear detail perhaps your video's are the way to go . Are you still selling those ?

[Gary Campbell]

Bill...
If you look over the manual in the current version (18) you have 2 options.

In the first individual parts are flipped and cut one at a time. You will need to have printed labels in order to have the numbers for the flips. In lieu of applied labels a regular sheet off the printer will allow you to type in the "ROxxxx" number.

The second is "FlipOps First". This method machines the back side of the sheet, cuts registry locations, and then prompts you to flip the sheet over for the balance of the machining.

Both work very well, but it is VERY important to have a registry system to properly orient the part or sheet for the flip. These are easiest set at 0 in both the X & Y, but an "el" shaped locator can be used, if the proper offsets are added. Check my column for more info if you want to use this option.

Check out the manual, and get back here is you have anymore questions. I have info on the flipops in the video, but I am temporarily holding them to add both the flipops first and possible new features.

Look over the manual, there are a few good threads in this forum on Flips also. Get back here or call if you need more info.

[dlcw]

Bill,

I learned the hard way that if you are going to do Flip Ops (as opposed to individual parts) you must set up the Flip Ops First parameters properly. You will notice there is an option to Trim Sheet. CHECK THIS BOX! Then select the method you want to trim the sheet so that it will register correctly when you turn it over. I use the Pin Area Only option and have 2 X-Axis pins set up on my machine to register the material. I don't have a pin on the Y-Axis - I use a v-groove in the spoil board. Even though you are not forced to select the Trim Sheet, you need to do this otherwise your parts won't register properly when you flip the sheet. Don't ask how I know this....:eek:

[Gary Campbell]

Don...
By the way, I cut 7 sheets of "Black Box" melamine today. 3 of these were FlipOp First. Other than tossing 85 lb sheets over on the table, I thought it was painless. The only change to the parameters we talked about on the phone would be to bring the trim amount up to .100 -.125" as I have more variation in the sheets than I thought.

Bill...
Don is right. If you use the feature you need to check the trim sheet box. I also use the pins only option having 3 pins in the X and 1 in the Y. If you dont select pin area only, the Link will trim the complete X and Y zero sides to allow location on the table. You could line this up with a cut edge, or V groove like Don.

Good Luck!

[bill_lumley]

I am looking into a registry system similar to what Gary shows in his column but I am wondering do I need to be that fancy . Can I just create an 'L' along the X and Y axis that is used to register a sheet . Today all my cutting is full sheets(except when I put a scrap at 0,0 to cut a single part) and my Link paramaters are set for a collar so I will never cut into an edge on my board . I was thinking I could use an aluminum extrusion with a 90 degree bend to form the registry line for each axis . Does this make sense ?

Thanks Bill

P.S. because my edge would be aluminum if I did cut into it by mistake it woudln't be the end of the world:)

[Gary Campbell]

Bill...
I may have a tendency to not go for the most simple of solutions. (Here is where you say "Ya Think??")

Aluminum will work, so would wood. Even better if you cut it with the machine to insure accuracy. What is important is that it is accurate, and can stay that way for subsequent sheets. You can use a solid "el" or blocks.

This falls under the "many ways to skin a cat" category. Post a pic of your solution for others.

[dlcw]

Bill,

I put in a very simple indexing system on my table. I will take pictures tomorrow and post them here. It is really high tech using a block of wood and dowels and holes.

[dlcw]

Here you go Bill.

Down the X axis I have several locations where I can put these blocks. I got the exact location where the left end of the block goes by v-carving a shallow line. I then drilled the holes along the side and built the blocks and put in dowels and sanded them so the fit is quite snug. It has worked really well so far.

My plenum (with the holes) is baltic birch not MDF. My thinking is that MDF might be too soft and the holes could increase in size from inserting and removing the pin blocks.

[Gary Campbell]

Don...
Sweet & Simple!

Bill...
Once those locator block are in place, all that is left to do is enter their location into the Link and select how much to trim. Then start flipping sheets.

Unless you put a number of them closer to the X=0 end, then the "el" may work better for individual FlipOp parts.

[dhunt]

I guess I should have spell checked :oYou can even go back into your original post -and Edit! ;)

[bill_lumley]

Thanks Don and Gary - that completes the puzzle . I may substitute some pieces of UHMW plastic for added stability over wood . If I can get dowel lengths in the material(or fiberglass) even better . UHMW machines easily and is very stable . Now to get some time to get out and source the required materials ... ;) I will post an update when I get to the next step .

I liked the idea of the pneuamatic pins but they would have interfered with where I have the Control box mounted to the frame on the X-axis and I didn't want to disturb that now that everything has been working well for a while now :)

Thanks again ! Bill

[bill_lumley]

Corrected - thanks for the tip Dave ..:)

[bill_lumley]

Don , I have decided to implement your approach with the addition of a stop on the Y-axis . I have the platform in place and now on to the blocks.When the blocks are put in placed and trimmed with the machine are you trying to get the edge of the blocks on the Zero-line or displaced by the cutter diameter in some way?

Bill

[Gary Campbell]

Bill...
You can do either. If you stay with the zero line on the X & Y you wont have to add an offset for either version of the flipops. This is the simplest way. If you decide to go with other than zero, let me know & I will send a sub for your custom files. This assumes you are not using OEM files.

I use pins on the zero line for FlipOps first (sheet) and an offset of 3" in both X & Y to my FlipOp fence (parts). So, you can choose either both or none. Its all in the math.

[dlcw]

Bill - I didn't trim the blocks with the Bot. I cut them to size on the chopsaw until they were right on the line I v-cut into the table. I thought about using the Bot then figured there was a chance of the blocks jumping out or around when the bit went by.

As far as where I put them - my X/Y zeroing routine zeros with the prox switches then backs up along the X and Y axis about .5" to set the actual X/Y zero location. So my X/Y zero location is not the prox switches.