michael_schwartz
07-11-2011, 12:04 AM
I am posting quite a few projects at one time due to a DSL outage at my workplace for the last week I would rather post multiple threads so the title pertains to the content.
Anyway the first is a sign I made as a sample for my showroom. It took a couple of tries to get it right but it was worth it. The sign itself was cut from maple, and I used the v-carve inlay method to inlay my logo, and the text, from cherry, and walnut. I did the 4 curved string inlays in cherry, by hand. The grooves were routed with the shopbot. I had originally tried to inlay Peruvian walnut for the text but it was too soft to hold the necessary detail. American black walnut worked fine.
I cut out the curved rails, and stiles for the frame miters included on the bot. I then used a slot cutter on the router table to cut groves. The frame was joined using fesstool dominos. A Bessy band clamp made glueup a breeze.
I chose not to paint the V-carved letters on this sign. They would certainly be more visible but I had some gut feeling that I shouldn't.
The finish is 2 seal coats of target coatings waterborne amber shellac, followed by several coats of the EM2000 hybrid varnish. I did pre-finish the panel prior to glue up should it shrink.
The sign hangs from the wall from a french cleat and is secured with 2 drywall anchors.
In regards to the table. I had piece of live edge flame birch I picked up floating around and I was trying to figure out what to do with it for a few weeks. Some how I came up with this idea and started building the stand from brown maple. I decided to add a couple of dovetail keys and then ended up adding more.
I had already assembled the stand. My first thought was to spend the next 3-4 hours building a jig to cut the dovetail sockets with a plunge router. But why do that when you have a shopbot...
I began by surfacing the front edge of my spoil board using a long bit so it would be coplanar to my Y and Z axis. I moved my end stops to maximize X travel in the front of the table. I screwed strips down to the top edge of the spoil board to use to for indexing, and clamping. This worked very well. The dovetail keys were cut out on the table saw.
A Wixey tilt box (digital angle gauge) makes setting the blade to the same angle of the dovetail bit easy. I cut the keys so that they are slightly over sized and then creep up on the fit with the planer, and or a hand plane if the fit is really close.
The top is finished using a somewhat lengthy schedule using target coatings linseed oil stain base followed by several coats of wb amber shellac, and then the EM6000 wb laquer topcoat (gloss) The stand is finished with the WB amber shellac, followed by EM6000.
Anyway the first is a sign I made as a sample for my showroom. It took a couple of tries to get it right but it was worth it. The sign itself was cut from maple, and I used the v-carve inlay method to inlay my logo, and the text, from cherry, and walnut. I did the 4 curved string inlays in cherry, by hand. The grooves were routed with the shopbot. I had originally tried to inlay Peruvian walnut for the text but it was too soft to hold the necessary detail. American black walnut worked fine.
I cut out the curved rails, and stiles for the frame miters included on the bot. I then used a slot cutter on the router table to cut groves. The frame was joined using fesstool dominos. A Bessy band clamp made glueup a breeze.
I chose not to paint the V-carved letters on this sign. They would certainly be more visible but I had some gut feeling that I shouldn't.
The finish is 2 seal coats of target coatings waterborne amber shellac, followed by several coats of the EM2000 hybrid varnish. I did pre-finish the panel prior to glue up should it shrink.
The sign hangs from the wall from a french cleat and is secured with 2 drywall anchors.
In regards to the table. I had piece of live edge flame birch I picked up floating around and I was trying to figure out what to do with it for a few weeks. Some how I came up with this idea and started building the stand from brown maple. I decided to add a couple of dovetail keys and then ended up adding more.
I had already assembled the stand. My first thought was to spend the next 3-4 hours building a jig to cut the dovetail sockets with a plunge router. But why do that when you have a shopbot...
I began by surfacing the front edge of my spoil board using a long bit so it would be coplanar to my Y and Z axis. I moved my end stops to maximize X travel in the front of the table. I screwed strips down to the top edge of the spoil board to use to for indexing, and clamping. This worked very well. The dovetail keys were cut out on the table saw.
A Wixey tilt box (digital angle gauge) makes setting the blade to the same angle of the dovetail bit easy. I cut the keys so that they are slightly over sized and then creep up on the fit with the planer, and or a hand plane if the fit is really close.
The top is finished using a somewhat lengthy schedule using target coatings linseed oil stain base followed by several coats of wb amber shellac, and then the EM6000 wb laquer topcoat (gloss) The stand is finished with the WB amber shellac, followed by EM6000.