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steve_g
07-12-2011, 12:24 AM
Hoping for some insight here:
I’ve been asked to build a plexi case for a LED HD TV that will be mounted poolside. I’m very comfortable working with plastics, but am uncertain if anti-glare is appropriate in this situation since the illumination will be coming from inside the box. I would like to reduce the glare of sunlight/pool lights etc. but would not want to see any distortion or degradation of the TV image. Anyone have any expertise here?
Thanks,
Steve

knight_toolworks
07-12-2011, 01:49 AM
cheaper to sue a couple of industrial baggies. double bag it and it will survive anything.

MogulTx
07-12-2011, 02:48 PM
Steve,

Sorry. Had a big ol response typed and must have flushed it! Bummer!

I have experience in display systems. I would say that- since you are referring to sunlight- that this one must (1) withstand not only chlorine and high humidity but (2) will be in an outdoor environment so it will get sunlight and potential moisture in the form of rain. So build the container accordingly.

However, the glare from the sunlight is going to swamp the brightness of the average LED TV in full sun, so I hope it is at least in a protected area. Because of the extreme brightness in the area around the TV for much of the day, I would think that AR would be nearly useless to you during that time frame. If the TV is not going to be used extensively at night, I would skip the AR coating. They are not all that reliable on Acrylics anyway, and they are REALLY unreliable when exposed to environmental conditions such as direct sunlight, high humidity and high ambient air chemical content.

I have some thin AR coated glass that you can tinker with. I can also laminate for you ( Glass. I prefer not to laminate acrylic, though I know how to do it.)

I am down in Round Rock- near Austin.

All the best to you,

Monty

ssflyer
07-12-2011, 03:12 PM
Hi Steve,

Just some thoughts... There are a lot of things to consider with an outdoor TV installation. Quickly changing temperatures, that lead to condensation. Extreme heat in the enclosure, leading to vastly shortened life. The fact that indoor rated TV's have little to no UV resistance. Remote control not waterproof. Sound system, etc.

I'd definitely look into a TV manufactured for outdoor use.

Best regards,
Ron

bleeth
07-12-2011, 03:37 PM
These guys seem to have an extruded polycarb that is anti glare.
http://techplastcoated.com/info-polycarbonate-clear-01.asp

Polycarb stands up to UV.

I wouldn't use any post applied films or straight acrylics for exterior use.

What Ron says about TV's outside is accurate except for the fact that thousands are in use throughout temperate climates outside but under some roof cover (Think Florida Tiki Bars!!!!)
If it is going into a box then you definately need to design for airflow to let the hot air out and prevent moisture buildup. That can be accomplished through the use of dorade type vents that make it difficult for whether to get in.

steve_g
07-13-2011, 12:17 AM
Thanks for the input guys.
This 42”unit will hang on a brick wall under a 16” roof overhang about 10’ from a pool with active grade school boys playing in it. I tried to talk my customer into a commercial model designed with heat and humidity in mind but to no avail, the LED version was a concession they agreed to when I explained that a lot less heat was generated. My plan right now is to include some computer case style fans in the bottom blowing air up through the top which will have an oversize cap that will allow air movement but stop water splashes and rain. The sound will be provided by wireless poolside speakers.
I am about convinced that the anti-glare coating is not right for this application. The light scattering coating that reduces reflected glare may work against me and scatter some of the light I’m trying to transmit from inside.
The added cost of poly-carbonate for its UV resistance is a wise choice, I think, as I’d like this customer to still be happy with my work 3 years down the road.
Steve

geneb
07-13-2011, 09:25 AM
Steve, it might be a better choice to place the fans at the top (on the back of the chassis) and draw air up through the bottom. Either way, good luck! If you can, post pics of the finished product. I'm really curious to see how it turns out.

g.

MogulTx
07-13-2011, 09:36 AM
Steve,

Your choices sound pretty solid. You can glue the material up using super glue. Be careful. It makes a white stain on the flat surfaces.

You can bend the main body of the enclosure ( so you have a more professional look and less SEAMS!) at about 250 F for acrylic. You can use a wand, a hot wire, a heat gun or a torch ( but the last two require some experience to get right without scroching the material. If you are using fans, and can make a cap that provides a bit of roll and overhang, you could leave a gap underneath so that air can be exhausted upward and ensure that the water will roll off of it.

I hope this turns out perfectly for you!

Monty

steve_g
11-06-2011, 06:44 PM
An update on this project... I finally got over to the install location with a camera.
The first image is how I proposed the project, the second how it turned out. The main difference is I was unhappy with how the cap looked and had a roofer make a metal cap for it. As expected, glare is an issue during the daytime but my customer only uses it in the late afternoon/evening and is happy with the results. I used low db 110V fans blowing up through the box and out around the cap. The Japanese maple tree will be moved after it goes dormant this fall.

Steve

myxpykalix
11-07-2011, 12:51 AM
when i finish my physical therapy i have ideas of building a "outhouse" type of building for my hot tub and never thought of hanging a small tv out there this gave me that thought.....good job it looks great!:cool:

gundog
11-07-2011, 01:42 AM
Nice job!!