Table top filler

[beacon14]

I had an idea for some end tables for my son's room, which is rustic-style. I'd like to make a frame, fill it with short sections of tree branches, so all the end-grain ends are facing out, pack the spaces between the branches with some sort of grout-like material, then use the 'Bot to surface plane the whole thing before wide-belt sanding.

I'm wondering if anyone has any suggestions for the "grout-like material". Something that will have enough flexibility to surround the wood without cracking, but enough machinability to be routed and sanded. Or am I dreaming? Is this a suitable use for epoxy, maybe with sawdust as a filler?

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

David B.

[ron brown]

I would use epoxy or urethane and be sure the wood is dry - assuming it is cut into 1/2" lengths, overnight in a 200 degree oven would do that. You would have great latitute in fillers. Cabosil and/or "wood flour", sawdust .... corian dust.....

If one chose epoxy it could be done all in one trip - even just stacking the wood in and pouring epoxy. Would not be necessarily messy if properly planned.

And, nightmares ARE a type of dream.

Ron

[phil_o]

Try this forum for an answer to your question. A lot of creative woodworkers frequent here.
http://www.forums.woodnet.net

[Brady Watson]

David,
When I lived in Colorado, I helped a friend build a log cabin. The spaces in between the logs are filled with a substance commonly known as chinking. (http://www.aloghomestore.com/nl-chinking.html) The chinking is applied after the logs are set. Many of the ones out there are now have a silicone base. Which essentially means that it is superior for it's intended application, but paint will not stick to it...Not sure if you wanted to paint over it or not.

-Brady

[geneM (Unregistered Guest)]

Dave,
I can help.
Their are numerous fillers that would fit the bill.
I would suggest " Duhram's Rock Hard Water Putty" you can mix it to any consistancy and add "tints all" pigmenting to adjust the color.
spread it wih a trowel or putty knife.

But I would sand the end grain as opposed to a cutter.

this stuff dries hard, adheres very well and sands finely.

Hope I helped
Gene Marshall

[beacon14]

It is sometimes difficult to tell the difference between a nightmare and a dream. Good point about the wood being dry - I think 3 years on the shelf in my garage should have done it.

Thanks for all the suggestions. I think the Water Putty may be the simplest solution. I'm curious whether any cracks will develop as the wood moves across the seasons, since this stuff doesn't appear to have much flexibility, but small cracks won't bother me - after all, it's rustic. I'll post some pics if I can get a chance to do this anytime soon.

Thanks again,
David B.

[mikejohn]

David
I have seen a 'picture' made like this with the wood at an angle, giving the cut ends an elipse shape. It looked a little 3D.
I look forward to seeing the photographs. Don't forget you can post much bigger photos in a blog, see here (http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/cgi-bin/discus/show.cgi?tpc=6720&post=21582#POST21582)
..............Mike

[bleeth]

Dave: We have a sofa table in our living room with a similar concept in which the end grain cuts were mostly from 1/2" dowels. The spaces between, being small were simply left open and the finish is a typical poly-urethane. With long dowels around the perimeter it's amazing how many people think it's a solid bundle of doweling.

Dave

[waynelocke]

Dave,
What you are describing is a variation of Oyster Shell veneering where the branch is cut in about 1/16" thick slices so the end grain becomes the face. These can be held flat in a stack and lightly clamped or rubber banded to dry flat. Traditionally, these were then cut into squares or octogons and glued to the substrate. If cut too thick, drying without cracking would become more of a problem.

I have seen some countertops made like you describe and The shop had a pneumatic jig for the bandsaw which advanced the branch so that all the pieces were the same thickness. I believe that they used epoxy putting down a light coat, placing the oyster shells, and then flooding the countertop.
Wayne Locke