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View Full Version : V-carve bit suggestions for hardwoods?



tim_mcknight
09-11-2011, 01:44 PM
The "kit" Onsrud V-bit is worn out and now its time to replace it and broaden my selection of V-carve bits. Looking for "cost friendly" bits that last long, stay sharp and won't have to break into the bank vault to purchase. Most signs we do are small less than 2' x 2' typically in domestic and occasionally exotic hardwoods. I rarely V-carve softwoods. Any suggestions, I am all ears? Thx...

Gary Campbell
09-11-2011, 01:53 PM
Tim...
There is a selection of reasonable V bits at www.magnate.net (http://www.magnate.net)

Usually the best can be found here: http://www.beckwithdecor.com/

knight_toolworks
09-11-2011, 01:55 PM
it depends on how large a bit you need. centurians are great bits but only 1/2" but they are easy to sharpen and will last many years.

zeykr
09-11-2011, 02:37 PM
Look at the hersaf bits. Esp the 60v for the small signs.
Bit of initial investment, but the replacement blades are reasonable and resharpen-able.

tim_mcknight
09-11-2011, 03:33 PM
How do you resharpen carbide bits? I assume diamond stones but by hand or power?

zeykr
09-11-2011, 03:49 PM
I take them to local resharpening service.

They have CNC sharpeners that use Diamond wheels.

steve_g
09-11-2011, 07:46 PM
Tim:

I want to expand on Gary's answer. The Bits at Magnate.com are reasonably priced and I use them, But... There is a down side.

See this thread regarding accurate angles...
http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12800

Also, The way they manufacture their V bits can leave a ridge...slight but visible.

I'm not discouraging you from using these bits especially if your finish is very tolerant of the ridge issue such as the way Sculpt Nouveau is.

Steve

myxpykalix
09-11-2011, 09:52 PM
www.centuriontools.com (http://www.centuriontools.com) I have seen the way they make their tools and their angles are 100% right on. They are sharp as all git out. Although i don't cut something everyday i've had a set of various bit for at least 3 years and haven't had to replace them yet.

knight_toolworks
09-11-2011, 10:05 PM
www.centuriontools.com (http://www.centuriontools.com) I have seen the way they make their tools and their angles are 100% right on. They are sharp as all git out. Although i don't cut something everyday i've had a set of various bit for at least 3 years and haven't had to replace them yet.
plus they are eay to sharpen and will last till they are stubs.

frank134
09-11-2011, 10:09 PM
steve who bit do you buy may I ask?

knight_toolworks
09-11-2011, 11:10 PM
I have the 60 and 90 ones from centurian. they work fine though they are small. I have some larger ones from amana but they don't come to a sharp point. I need more larger bits for sure.

steve_g
09-11-2011, 11:14 PM
Frank

I wasn't sure which "Steve" you had in mind... but here's my answer.

Most V carving I do requires larger V bits than many manufactures such as Centurion make... thus my tolerance of the Magnate bits. When a smaller bit is called for my favorite is the CMT 3 flute "laser" point bit. It has been hard to find lately however. I have not tried the Centurion bits...can anyone tell me if they cut to a fine point or leave a flat?

Steve

butch
09-12-2011, 08:22 AM
I have not tried the Centurion bits...can anyone tell me if they cut to a fine point or leave a flat?

Steve

I have used Centurion bits almost exclusively with good results. They come to a very sharp point and seem to last until they hit a metal object. I have had to replace the 1-4 v60 bits on a regular basis, but I cut lots of material with them, and most of that is oak. The 1/2 in. v90 and v120 have lasted for about 3 years now and seem to still be cutting fine.
Butch

rcnewcomb
09-12-2011, 11:18 AM
I'll add my support for Centurion.

I'm also a bit fan of the V bits from CMT Link-> http://www.cmtutensili.com/show_items.asp?pars=RB~7/8/958~2

ssflyer
09-12-2011, 12:40 PM
Steve,

The CMT laser point bits are sold through Amazon - even the CMT site links to Amazon when you try to buy direct.

tim_mcknight
09-12-2011, 01:00 PM
Lets say you are going to V-carve a sign in Oak and you want the letters painted black and the wood finished natural, how to approach this project? Do you V-carve bare wood, hand paint the letters and then clear coat? Do you seal the oak with sanding sealer, cut the letters, spray paint black letters then sand excess off, then seal with clear? I would think spray painting would allow black paint to get into the wood pores of the oak? Or do you use another method?

hh_woodworking
09-12-2011, 01:24 PM
I carve the letters then spray shellac. Then spray the letters what color I want. Sand,then clear coat. the shellac seals the pores to keep the color where I want it.

ssflyer
09-12-2011, 02:17 PM
One quick way that has worked for me (I was in a hurry when I tried it ;)) was to seal it with shellac, carve it, spray the letters, then wipe off the excess with mineral spirits. the shellac allowed me to wipe it off easily, then followed up with clear coats.

Sealing with shellac first also offers the benefit of cleaner cutting.

butch
09-12-2011, 02:52 PM
Lets say you are going to V-carve a sign in Oak and you want the letters painted black and the wood finished natural, how to approach this project? Do you V-carve bare wood, hand paint the letters and then clear coat? Do you seal the oak with sanding sealer, cut the letters, spray paint black letters then sand excess off, then seal with clear? I would think spray painting would allow black paint to get into the wood pores of the oak? Or do you use another method?
With oak I usually do a finish first. I make a lot of items that I spray paint or glaze - I finish the boards, then VCarve and wipe off the paint or glaze. Lately I have been using ink and that gets a better finish on the vcarve than paint. Unless the paint is thin or I apply too much I don't use sanding sealer, as it adds another step, and as long as I am careful with applying the paint or ink I haven't had much bleeding.

myxpykalix
09-12-2011, 05:13 PM
here is a picture of some of the bits from centurion. I think you'll see they have a pretty sharp point and precise angles on them.

zeykr
09-12-2011, 05:26 PM
I'm a fan of the Hersaf v-bits.

majohnson
09-12-2011, 11:07 PM
I've had good luck with stuff from Micro 100 and Harvey Tool. Micros RTC/RSC 250-2 is a go to for small stuff. I have several Harvey fine point engraving bits that work great for double outline letter engraving.

In addition they have more cool stuff then you can shake a stick at. For pocketing they have reduce shank bits that stop healing problems so you get a clean finish.