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Ted D
01-22-2012, 09:37 PM
Just a couple of quick questions about vinyl paint mask. I've mostly done 2D parts for the last year and a half and now want to get into some lettering (just upgraded my software). I believe I understand the basic technique of preparing a blank, applying paint mask, cutting the lettering, painting the lettering, and then removing the paint mask. Now I just need to order some paint mask. Is "Avery SF 100-128-S White Paint Mask" the product I need? Is $43 plus shipping for a 24" by 10 yard roll a decent price? This is going to be more for fun and friends so I don't need a huge quantity, but don't want to pay ebay prices for just a few square feet either. TIA

CNYDWW
01-23-2012, 06:21 AM
I've had quite a bit of success with Duck brand white vinyl shelf paper. They carry it around here in 12" or 24". Get the white stuff, make sure you're surface is dust free and i use a laminate roller to make sure it's adhered well. I wouldn't leave it on for more then absolutely you need to just because it can leave a little residue behind after a few hours. Cheap and works pretty good.

Regards
Randy

Ted D
01-23-2012, 07:40 AM
Thanks. I've tried contact paper in the past and had trouble with the residue. I prefer to use the proper material and do it right.

dakers
01-23-2012, 09:00 AM
we are currently using a product from Trim USA Accucut "YELLOW STENCIL MASK"

http://www.trimusa.com/

disclaimer:
may or may not work with your paint methods.
Trim USA has had good tech support so ask tell them what you are doing and ask for recomendations.
We use automotive paint on the surface. we use autmotive primer.
the surface is smooth and shiny so the mask sticks well.
have not tried it on latex/acrylics
have found the automotive paints are almost the same price as a popular sign paint.

CNYDWW
01-23-2012, 10:00 AM
Thanks. I've tried contact paper in the past and had trouble with the residue. I prefer to use the proper material and do it right.

This really isn't paper, it's vinyl and there's a big difference. For a couple bucks at the store it still might be worth a try. Works with spray or brush painting. Also never had an issue with residue if it was removed within a few hours.

Regards
Randy

joewino
01-23-2012, 10:58 AM
If you want to do it right, get a roll of Gerber Mask. Oracal and Avery also make a paint mask, but I've had great results with Gerber.

If you use latex paints, put down the paint mask and then brush on a coat of the background color inside the masking. This will seal the edges and keep the finished color from feathering under the mask. When that's dry, brush or roll on the finish color and remove the mask. You will have a perfectly smooth edge.

By the way, doing it right and doing it cheap are not the same thing.

dakers
01-23-2012, 11:48 AM
Raymond, would like to know what type of acrylic latex paint you use that works with the mask?. Eggshell, semi gloss, gloss, flat are some of the many finishes available now.
we are thinking go with eggshell or semigloss acrylic latex.

we like the auto paint because we can put a hardener in it and never have any issues with it. It has amazing life and color retention, allows faster production times, but it does make the signs expensive. For a two sided 3x4 hdu sign we have approx. $200. in paint, hardener, reducer and primer. we need to have tiered pricing so will add acrylic latex to the options.
We also like and use Gerber Mask, the Trim USA product performs like the Gerber Mask for us.

fredtoo
01-23-2012, 12:13 PM
Ditto what Raymond said.......

dakers
01-23-2012, 03:31 PM
here is a photo of one on the table as we speak using the yellow mask from Trim USA. works perfect on enamels that are dry and hard. or use the Gerber Mask. Not a expert on mask or paint but just have things that work for us without failures or problems.

dakers
01-23-2012, 03:44 PM
here is a close up showing the cut. we pay $29.50 for 10 yards non perorated 24'' wide roll and $114.63 for 50 yard roll

Ted D
01-23-2012, 03:57 PM
Thanks for all the information. I know doing it right and doing it cheap aren't the same. That's why I'm avoiding the shelf vinyl (which is what I tried before, although I said "contact paper" above).

One reason I'm leaning towards Avery instead of the other brands is it's available in smaller rolls. I didn't really compare square footage prices, but this is just for fun when I have time (which is seldom) and I don't need a huge quantity on hand or the money tied up in it. I stay busy six days a week on my primary business and just need this to do projects for friends, gifts, etc.

dakers
01-23-2012, 04:02 PM
Ted, thanks for posting. i hope to learn as more sign people post on this topic which i do not know much about with all the paints you can buy now. We like Avery but mostly use oracal and 3M. Trim USA was the company that kept stopping at the shop til we felt too guilty not to buy from them , but we use Tubelite, Proveer, N Glantz and Pioneer too. there are so many suppliers.

joewino
01-23-2012, 06:25 PM
We use Porter 100% acrylics - in satin (although I'm sure any sheen will work with the mask, we just prefer the look of satin - or semigloss, seems to be the same thing, just different words)

dakers
01-23-2012, 06:33 PM
Thanks Raymond for answering the question, we are anxious to add Porter Satins to cut some costs on the polyurethane auto paints and i am sure others will benefit. We hate to run the spray booth in winter time for the automotive paints as the building gets cold fast, etc. Right now the 5hp exhaust motor is blowing capacitors and it is in for repair for 2 weeks now. have not used latex in decades so will have to learn how again so any tips will help.

Ted D
01-23-2012, 06:46 PM
I guess I should have mentioned the paint I'm planning to use. Nothing fancy, whatever comes to hand in a spray can. I know that's not the "right" way to do a professional sign, but that's not what I'm working on. In fact I'm going to try the vinyl mask on bare wood, shellac after routing to avoid paint bleed, spray paint the letters, and then clear coat over everything. Maybe stain and then clear coat as the lettering is going to be flat black so any stain that gets in them isn't going to show. If it doesn't work out I'll stain and clear coat first.

Y'all sure don't have to worry about me competing for sign business. I'm a full time woodworker and the lettering is just for fun since I have the ShopBot anyway. I'm sure a lot of you know once word gets out you have a CNC machine that the friends with projects come out of the woodwork.

dakers
01-23-2012, 06:56 PM
Ted, we use spray cans as much as possible. here is a spray job that goes with the sign we posted on page one. used three large spray cans i think.
we used the auto gray primer and white enamel then hand painted the rest.
our problem mostly is we are human and make mistakes. the paint does not make too many mistakes. if you look at the sign i posted with yellow mask on page one you will notice the routing is off center. we did not realize til it was done. we had resized the sign and .... well that is how it goes. now we have to put on a 1/2 sheet of hdu on top and start over. sign will be 4'' thick two sided with steel embedment for hanging. So maybe no one has to worry about us competing for sign business unless we measure twice and cut once and stuff like that. Remember building a sign so large i could not get it out of door and many more stories. So Ted take care, to error is human but to use spray cans is divine or something like that.