Mounting odd shaped routers

[dvanr]

Having a minor stroke getting the router mounted.

Didn't follow through on the thought process, solved the mounting problem without thinking about what happens when it cuts. In particular sideways.

I'm now very concerned (try panicing) that if I try cutting in the Y direction I'll twist the z axis.

Its 135mm from the back of the bracket to the collet. Do I just install it and hope? Or do I chop it,rotate it 90 deg and move it closer. The handles would have to get the chop as well since they are wider than the z axis and won't clear the hole.

Brutal honesty appreciated.

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[gerald_d]

Turn it, that's for sure.

But I don't think that your handles have really proved to be a problem yet. You have to mount that bracket a lot lower on the z-axis plate. In fact, I think that the vertical part of your bracket is too short.

Go and hold your router under the y-car with the collet about 1/2" above the table - that's probably as deep as you'd ever want the SB to plunge your router. Then measure how much vertical height you have available above the handles. If that height is more than the stroke of the z-slide, then the handles don't have to be removed.

I see that you have already removed the "easy" handle, the one without the switch. Your router may already be narrow enough to rise in between the alu bearers of the y-car if you put the router slightly off-centre in the y-direction.

[mikejohn]

Gerald
I suspect that Dicks vertical part is the same dimension as the big lump that ShopBot now include (presumably for a Porta Cable)
I will take photographs of mine tomorrow, which is working fine.
I've actually sold something I made on the ShopBot!!

..........Mike

[gerald_d]

The body of the Porter-Cable protrudes down, through the bracket, while Dick's Triton sits higher up relative to the bracket. Been called to supper...

[beacon14]

FWIW,

I bought a Triton router for my router table a couple of years ago, since it was (still is?) the only model that allowed you to raise the collet up above the table for changing bits without having to remove the router from the table. I was not very impressed with the robustness of the design and ended up throwing it away when the housing cracked during a bit change (I like my bits to be in tight). I replaced it with a Milwaukee with a quick release base/motor arrangement.

If you plan to do much cutting you might want to be prepared to replace that router.

[dvanr]

Thanks for the feedback. Funny how a cad drawing looks smaller than the real thing.

"Sigh", the grinder with cutting disc is becoming my favorite tool. Back to the shed.

[dvanr]

(Reading David's post)

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and LOL , what next.

ahh well I'll go with what I have for now and start looking for a replacement router.

As we say here .... bugger.

Thanks again for the feedback

[mikejohn]

Dave
I didn't quite understand what you are saying here,the only model that allowed you to raise the collet up above the table for changing bits without having to remove the router from the table.
I wonder if you can take the time to try and clarify what you mean.
.............Mike

[dvanr]

Assuming the router is inverted and mounted into a base.

The Triton has a collet lock that engages when you raise the router into it's pedestal that is bolted to the underside of the base. (if you look at the bottom bracket photo you can see the lock pin) Basically, you don't have to hold a lock pin in by hand (or use a second wrench) while loosing the collet.

[gerald_d]

After looking at this story (http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com/reviews/tritonrouter.htm) on your Triton, I can see that those are a lot more than just handles. It would really be a shame to cut them off. Can you exchange your Triton for something else?

Maybe just cut off one handle (the simple one)?

Anyway, first check if your handles will really touch the y-car.

[dvanr]

Well I have checked and the handles are in the way.

Can't return it, I have had the router for a while and it has been used on some kitchen and bathroom projects. Bought it based on reviews here in OZ and for the projects it has performed really well.

However,I have to agree with David. This is not the most robust router design. The top bearing is mounted in an injection molded web and I doubt that it would take full CNC abuse , so I'll have to be careful.

Besides SWMBO would look dimly on another router darkening the door , when I said this one will do. Better to cut the ears off the router than let SWMBO confiscate my VISA card.

[hespj]

I've just been making a bracket for a 1900w Freud router. Not sure if this will help Dick, but it might be of use to somebody.

I already had a Freud, and it looked like it would be a good contender for the SB - powerful, handles remove, easy to change bit, inexpensive (£165 - $315).

I took the router bed off by taking off the top of the depth adjustment handle which reveales a screw which when undone allows the router bed to be removed.The two handles have screws holding them.


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I used the router bed as a jig to get my two mounting pins the right distance apart and upright. The uprights for the Freud are 20mm dia.


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The bracket has to be spaced away fronm the SB z carraige to clear the guide bearings. The lower 2 bolts are tight against spacers, the upper two have adjustment to rock the bracket and router in the x direction if necessary. I drilled 10.5mm holes (M10 bolts) in the z carrraige to allow the bracket to rock in the Y direction if necessary.


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The router slides easily onto the mounting pins (or at least it did after a bit of filing) and is locked there by the original handle mounting screws. I had to drill and tap the holes on the router deeper for the screws to tighten in this way. I'm not 100% sure they will lock the router enough, but if not I'll drill and tap into the mounting pins.


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[dvanr]

I like your mounting solution, much easier and cheaper than the way I came up with. Thanks for posting John, I'll keep this in mind for the next one.

[dvanr]

Took the advice offered here and scrapped the first bracket. Bad design and shouldn't have even asked, but hey , "I really want to turn the flippin thing on!"


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Didn't have sufficient power in the shop to weld (due to a fire) so the bracket was brazed together. Not that hard to do and easier than gas welding.
The studs work in the same fashion as dynabolts.Tightening the nut on the bottom spreads the fingers and pulls the router down tight. Seems ro work so far.(as he says a little prayer)


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More by sheer luck than design the dust skirt (not shown)lines up to the collet dead center. That alone made up for having to hack the handles off the router.

[gerald_d]

That is a tight fit!