Best font for an inlay?

[myxpykalix]

I'd like to try to do an inlay of a name on a jewelry box lid, the lid being walnut and i'm thinking the inlay would be curly maple. The name Stacy will be on the lid and i'm thinking some type of "swooshy" or handwriting font, or something that looks feminine and i wondered those of you who have done inlays like this what font did you use and did you have any issues where the font thinned out?

I have not thinned down my spoilboard in some time and i can see where when it gets down to a few thousandths or more i may have some problems so i don't think a real thin font will work for me but i'd like to hear or see your experiences.

[srwtlc]

Jack,

I'd highly recommend using the V-carve method if you're thinking of a "swooshy" font. Much easier to get the detail needed, less risk of breakage, and it can all be done at once. Look here for info on how.

http://www.vectric.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=564

I just finished up this box today and used that method to inlay the Padauk music note heart.

If you don't have PartWorks, VCP, or Aspire, I could lay it out for you.

[myxpykalix]

Scott i might need you to do that for me....I need to go back and read the inlay pdf that paul zank wrote many moons ago. But let me ask you, what depth did you carve your male and female parts at? Do you see any issues with thin parts?

When you did this, you cut your male parts with a "relief" type toolpath clearing away all the waste material leaving all the parts attached to your backing material correct? Then you glued and shaved off the excess?

typically what thickness material do you carve your male inlays out of?

[steve_g]

Scott

I like your live edge box...particularly your "free form" interior with partitions!

SG

[srwtlc]

Jack,

I pretty much stick to the depths stated in the v-carve inlay pdf on the site. The thickness of the male blank was 0.5", which works well with the depths used. Sometimes small thin parts can chip off depending on the grain. Gotta be careful to not sand them down to far or you'll lose detail too.


When you did this, you cut your male parts with a "relief" type toolpath clearing away all the waste material leaving all the parts attached to your backing material correct? Then you glued and shaved off the excess?

Yes. Cleared around the parts with the same v-bit at the same time.

Steve,

Thanks, saw a real nice one recently that inspired me....;)

[feinddj]

The vcarve inlay will give you really fine detail in whatever font you like. Give yourself a little thickness on the female part. That way you can plane it down to the right detail.

[myxpykalix]

David,
would there be any problem with increasing the female depth to say .10 or .15? or more? I'd like to remove the screwup factor of my sanding or cutting too deep when removing the male part by giving myself a little room for fudge factor.
How do you remove the male waste? I have just taken it to the table saw and cut it off that way, sneaking up on the surface till i can sand it. Is there any better way?

[feinddj]

Jack,

I gave it that much for the fudge factor. As far as removing waste, that piece was large enough that I just planed it off with the Bot. Sharp bit light passes, no problem. If your piece is small enough, shouldn't be a problem to take off the large waste with the bandsaw.

David