Raised stepped inlay

[myxpykalix]

Look at my drawing. What i want to do is carve a raised 3d carving...no problem, got that part covered.
But what i want to do is pocket a hole in the lid smaller then the actual diameter of the carving so that the carving overlaps and fits into the pocket hiding any problems with the mismatch of male/female parts since i have to turn it over and profile cut the bottom down .25 to match the pocket.

I am also thinking that i'd like to pocket a larger circle for a cherry ring then insert the purpleheart carving into the cherry.

My question, i think is, in order to have the domed sides come to a flat part so that it forms a lip over the sides of the cherry hole and then i can create a .25 depth side for the purpleheart to fit into the cherry underneath don't i have to make the height of the 3d carving .5?
then (or previous to this) cut a profile on the underside of .25"? Then do a cutout of .75 deep?
That would then create the domed shape you see with the undercut lip?:confused:

[jerry_stanek]

First I would route the back of the purple heart so yoy won't be fighting an uneven side.

[myxpykalix]

That was kind of my thought by taking and routing the back first while the whole thing was flat to avoid what you said. I guess what i was trying to figure out was i wanted the slope to come to a point rather then an edge with a curved top then flat side like a bayer asprin.

[CNYDWW]

Hey Jack

To make it line up properly, i'd mill the pocket on the back first. Then from zero, in a piece of scrap, mill a matching plug to set it on for carving. That way the back mill will line up perfectly with the carving. Other option would be to mill and cut it from the back side then cut a matching hole in a piece of scrap to index it to zero.

Regards
Randy

[myxpykalix]

Because i've thought about changing the size and shape of the 3d carving on top i think the simplest way to do this is to turn the opposite side up and drill a simple .25 dia hole .25 deep.
turn it over and
Then simply carve my 3d carving as i would and cut it out.
Then take some .25 thick material and cut a 1.5" circle with a .25" hole in the center of the circle.
Take a .25 diameter dowel stick it thru the .25" hole in the 1.5" circle and into the .25" hole in the back of the 3d carving.

The net result is you are gluing the 1.5" circle to the back of the 3d carving lining it up with the dowel.

The dowel will stick thru a hole in the lid and be connected to a locking mechanism which is connected to the 3d carving that is not glued to the lid but sits in the 1.5" pocket. You will have to turn the 3d carving in order to open the box.:confused:
My next question will be in a post named "locking mechanism" because i need some construction advice on that next!:eek: