Table

[ssflyer]

A question I've always had - everyone I see has their spoilboard in the middle of the table, with several inches open on the edges.

I have a 60x96 table, put down 3/4" birch ply and 2 layers of 3/4" MDF on the top. I actually used my ShopBot to cut the pieces that made my table span the entire width of my machine.

I thought it would give me a couple of advantages - stiffer machine (think boxed frame), and a great place to lay things. Also, no chips/dust under my machine.

I also used the ShopBot to cut slots for Aluminum T-Slot extrusions set into my table for hold down.

Just curious and asking for opinions on this...

Thanks,

[adrianm]

I has the same thoughts and redid my 96x48 a couple of years ago. In the picture you can see the original and how it is now.

Much cleaner and having tracks outside of the 8x4 area gives me far more options when it comes to hold down.

It's due a resurface after a couple of my mistakes debugging my automatic zeroing routines! :o

[jerry_stanek]

How do you surface the whole spoil board wouldn't that leave a lip around the edges.

[myxpykalix]

I have a 10 ft table and have about a foot open on each end and i left my ends open because i had dreams of mounting my indexer about a foot or so below my table height because i had the thought of carving the round stretchers(?) on a table or some large round carving.

Thats never happened yet, sorry to say...:(

[adrianm]

How do you surface the whole spoil board wouldn't that leave a lip around the edges.

I can surface a lot more of it than you would think as the spindle reaches past the 48" mark by quite a bit and my surfacing bit is 3" in diameter.

The lip doesn't matter as the main working part of the table is at the same height and the parts outside of that are the tracks used for 8x4 hold down which work fine with a lip.

[gerryv]

Ron and Adrian,
I like it. Nice work. Ron, do you use a larger planing/surfacing bit as well?

[Brady Watson]

I have seen many customers do this. Some like it, some don't. Personally, I don't like it because it prevents you from using clamps around the perimeter of the table - which is also why there is an overhang.

-B

[larry_k]

I was thinking of putting a 3/4 6" pine plank on the sides so I can still
pop them out when I need to. thanks larry

[jerry_stanek]

On mine I bent some aluminum flashing and use it as a trough to keep the chips from going under the table. I can remove them to use clamps if I have to.

[myxpykalix]

Ha! Jerry...that was an idea i had thought of, using some vinyl gutters and mounting to the edges to catch dust and then sweep it down the gutter to a hole with a bucket underneath to collect it because you can see long thin piles of dust around the perimeter of my table now.:eek:

[crash5050]

I has the same thoughts and redid my 96x48 a couple of years ago. In the picture you can see the original and how it is now.

Much cleaner and having tracks outside of the 8x4 area gives me far more options when it comes to hold down.

It's due a resurface after a couple of my mistakes debugging my automatic zeroing routines! :o

Couple of Questions:

Did you cut those as "Slats" or did you just use something like a straight bit to groove them out?

What is the actual distance between the T Tracks, the tracks are about 3/4 of an inch wide.

Did you surface your spoiler before or after you put in the T Track?

Thanks
David