View Full Version : Cribbage Board Craziness
Mike Kelly
10-18-2012, 08:16 PM
Started making Christmas gifts a little early this year.
adana
10-19-2012, 09:48 AM
Mike, those look great. I'm sure the recipients will be delighted.
What technique did you use to get such clean definition of your color filled areas? I don't see any bleed at all, very nice.
Mike Kelly
10-19-2012, 12:05 PM
Gave the wood a coat of varathane and then I covered the board with sign vinyl and routed it. Went over the graphic a couple of times, then I painted.
After peeling off the vinyl I touched up any area with a sharpie.
Another couple of coats of varathane.
Mike
adana
10-19-2012, 12:19 PM
Cool, thanks. I'll have to give that a shot.
tomwillis
10-24-2012, 09:44 AM
Mike,
Great job!
I noticed -some type of T-Track in your pics. Are those right in your spoilboard?
Tom
Mike Kelly
10-24-2012, 06:49 PM
Tom
Yes the T-track is right in the 1" MDF spoil board,
Cut 1/2 dados on my table saw, installed the track, so it gives me approx 1/4" of spoil board.
Haven't decided it I will replace it or glue another sheet of mdf on top when I run out of room to resurface..
Mike
tomwillis
10-25-2012, 10:20 AM
Thanks Mike for the reply.
I'm working on a potential project with Rockler.....and you might have an interest. They are deciding - if they want to move forward with the concept....so I'm in a holding pattern right now. If they choose not to - I'm going to take the idea to - Woodcraft or another company....but I may want to run the idea by you - at some point - to get your thoughts...and see if it has merit.
Tom
chiloquinruss
10-25-2012, 12:55 PM
I use t-track and its worked out well for me and my sheet goods projects. Russ
http://hobby-tronics.lenzus.com/content/21775739/r/s_84086157.jpg
http://hobby-tronics.lenzus.com/content/21775739/r/s_80776157.jpg
http://hobby-tronics.lenzus.com/content/21775739/r/s_58256157.jpg
Bob Eustace
10-25-2012, 08:06 PM
Nice idea Russ. Do you ever hit the aluminium clamps and if you do is it the end of the cutter?
Mike Kelly
10-25-2012, 09:25 PM
Thanks Mike for the reply.
I'm working on a potential project with Rockler.....and you might have an interest. They are deciding - if they want to move forward with the concept....so I'm in a holding pattern right now. If they choose not to - I'm going to take the idea to - Woodcraft or another company....but I may want to run the idea by you - at some point - to get your thoughts...and see if it has merit.
Tom
I'm curious, you can contact me anytime
Mike
Mike Kelly
10-25-2012, 09:27 PM
Russ
Your spoil board was the inspiration for my first one,
Do you resurface and glue another level of mdf on?
Mike
I use t-track and its worked out well for me and my sheet goods projects. Russ
http://hobby-tronics.lenzus.com/content/21775739/r/s_84086157.jpg
http://hobby-tronics.lenzus.com/content/21775739/r/s_80776157.jpg
http://hobby-tronics.lenzus.com/content/21775739/r/s_58256157.jpg
tomwillis
10-26-2012, 01:01 PM
Russ,
Excellent set up! Are your tracks only on the outside or in the cutting area?
If this works out with Rockler - it may be something of interest as well.
Tom
chiloquinruss
10-26-2012, 09:51 PM
My setup is as follows:
1. 3/4 inch mdf bolted down to the Bot steel frame, I have a 48 x 96 std machine. These bolts are counter sunk into the surface of layer one.
2. On 12 inch centers I machine screwed down my t-track. On the width I only did the first 4 feet and did full length on the 96 direction.
3. I cut smaller squares (approx 11 inch) and also bolted these down to the first layer (countersunk once again). This allows for about half of the piece to stick up a little above the t-track.
4. Next I GLUED down another set of squares to layer two (finally now I have a spoil board).
5. The last process is to then lightly surface off layer three.
As I use my machine I get irregularities in the surface requireing a re-surfacing. Depending how much you need to take off this can be repeated over some period of time. When layer three gets down to being really thin I just go ahead and take it down to just barely cleaning off the surface of layer two. I then go to steps 4 and 5 and I'm good to go.
On the sides of the t-track sandwich I bolted down some 2 x 6 that I then screwed in another section of t-track. This allows me to hold full shetts using traditional clamps. For my smaller modeling pieces I have made a series of jigs that act as mini spoil boards and are t-bolted to the t-track to hold them in place.
Since I do mostly flat sheet goods the thickness of my t-track sandwich has not affected my z height so far. Russ
http://hobby-tronics.lenzus.com/content/21775739/r/s_84096157.jpg
http://hobby-tronics.lenzus.com/content/21775739/r/s_32436157.jpg
http://hobby-tronics.lenzus.com/content/21775739/r/s_77456157.jpg
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