Urgent help

[ken_r]

If anyone has a spindle could you please help me.
The fan at the top of my columbo is not spinning when the spindle is running.
My question is- is the fan meant to spin as soon as the spindle starts up? Does it start itself when the spindle reaches a certain temperature? If the parameters can be changed ca you tell me which program setting I have to access and what is the correct setting?
At the moment I can change the setting on the actual spidle control box fan but can not find anything on the fan for the spindle itself.
thanks in advance
Ken

[Brady Watson]

Ken,
Stop using the spindle immediately. If this is an RS-series with electric cooling fan, then it should spin up as soon as power is applied to the VFD. The fan spins regardless of temperature and the speed is not variable.

Is this a new spindle? Have you used it prior to this? Did you buy this from Shopbot? 5HP or 3HP?

-Brady

[elcruisr]

Check inside the junction box on the spindle to see if there is a broken or chafed through wire leading to the fan. It has two small leads and will come in from the back of the box near the top and lead up to the fan. If the fan is still wired up OK then your fan is probably going to need replacing. You can get a replacement for a good price from Mouser Electronics. They keep the exact same make and model in stock and cheaper than you'll get it from Colombo. Shopbot may have a few in stock as well. Make sure you get the ball bearing version and NOT the sleeve bearing (bushing) model! Don't ask me how I know, that's a long story...

If you need the ordering info let me know and I can get it from the shop on monday.

Eric

[gerald_d]

I suppose it would help Ken to check if there is voltage present on the 2 wires going to the fan?

Eric, I would be interested in the fan info because I need to fit a fan to our new Fimec spindle - the darn thing has a shaft-mounted fan and it sounds like a Boeing warming up.

[Ryan Patterson]

What is the power single or three phase. I have a three phase spindle but the fan runs on 220V. My three phase is two legs at 120 and one at 220. If it is three phase you will have to make sure you do not wire in the high leg to the fan. If the high leg is going to the fan the fan will spin faster then it should for a short time before burning up.

[ken_r]

Thanks for your input guys, at this point I think that it might be something to do with the control box.
Can you not run through the control box and use the spindle as its own entity? I think that this might be the way to go as the VFD is right next to my computer. What do you think?
My spindle is three phase but I dont think that the fan is single. I just got it new from shopbot when they delivered my table.

[Ryan Patterson]

Ken
If the spindle works but the fan does not it has nothing to do with the control box. I also got my spindle from ShopBot. The fan only has two wires going to it. If one of the two wires is on the high leg it will burn the fan. Check the wiring inside the VFD.

I would take Geralds advice and check voltage to the fan.

[Brady Watson]

Ken,
If you just got this new from ShopBot, call tech support 1st thing in the morning. They will get you straightened out. Chances are that either wires 5 & 6 or 7 & 8 are not hooked up properly back in the VFD. If you pull the cover off of the VFD, check to see that there aren't 2 wires not connected to anything.

-Brady

[elcruisr]

Gerald, do you have any kind of a CFM (or it's metric equiv.) rating for the fan? There are dozens of models and I could check all the specs to see if anything comes close and get you a model #. Also an approx. base dimension. I can give you the specs of the one that fits the colombo but not sure if it will match up to Fimecs needs.

Eric

[gerald_d]

Eric, I don't have any form of a spec. I was hoping to use the Colombo's spec just to get a ballpark figure. Would appreciate it if you told me the model number you got from Mouser Electronics, I'll do the rest. Thanks.

[elcruisr]

Gerald,
The fan is a 230 volt 50/60 htz Pabst #3656. Mouser P/N 5912-3656.

Eric

[gerald_d]

Thanks a lot Eric!

link (http://www.ebmpapst.com/index/sid/FF47763F-8966-4439-85E1-A38A3723FD46/nid/2C2CF297-CDB4-4A99-9C22-553CFAB054D4/produkte_detail.asp?pid=53815&highlight=true&overv iew_action=suchergebnis_alle.asp&last_nid=2C2CF297-CDB4-4A99-9C22-553CFAB054D4)

[gerald_d]

That link doesn't work if you havn't been there before and the cookie is not stored correctly...


For my own notes:
Pabst 3656 from Ziehl-ebm, tel. 551 5552, commonly in stock (20 current), R266.00 ($39.23)

[hope@roamtheearth.com]

We are currently probing a double wide seat bottom. So far it has been about 30 hours because of problems and we are only 10" into the 42" long seat! I was wondering if anyone knew if you could mirror the image. Basically we are trying to get away with only probing 21" and mirroring it over the line. We are probing it as an sbp. Any thoughts?

[cabindoors]

Hope Young,

First of all, when probing I always output in the dxf format. A dxf file allows you to "see" the probe's point cloud using a CAD program. And you can also correct them in CAD. Then convert the dxf to sbp later.

As for mirroring, you have the right idea. You are right in only needing to probe half (ie to 21 inches.). Then save this sbp file, name it something like "SEAT.SBP" and run it.

After running 1/2 of your seat, rezero the bit at x=0 and y=42. Then run it again but this time with FP, SEAT.SBP,1.00,-1.00,1.00,1. This should change all of the MY commands to negative values. Test it first. It should work. Good Luck.

[ron brown]

Hope,

I'll go on a different track. Unless this to duplicate EXACTLY a chair I suggest measuring the seat and modeling it in a CAD program.

I would affix a straight edge across the front and determine that profile. I would place a second straight edge from front "greatest depth" each side and measure front to rear profile. I would measue the center ridge,

I would take a picture from the top and make measurements of the seat outline. From there, I would model, fair curves, remodel. The model, fair and remodel will need to be done, IMO, even with a detailed probe. It will take less time if measured.

A large flat bit could be used to cut such a scoop in a short time with just a little sanding if the proper toolpath.

Given the project I would be producing seat bottoms in under two hours from given the seat to actual cutting. But, I have done this sort of project before.

If determined ot use the probe (and I have been), I would probe just enough to get the control points to do the modeling. I would think 1/2" or 1/4" at the most would be all I would want. The fewer control points used the more smooth an object will be. I would think I may have only 5 or 4 control parts front to read and each side would have the same number of points. I would build only have the seat then Mirror Image.

Ron