To Vacuum or not to Vacuum

[crash5050]

Being as I am setting this thing up for the 1st time, I would like to hear the thoughts of some fellow botters. Should I go ahead and put in the Vacuum system now while I am doing the initial assembly because I really really hate the tabs that Aspire puts on the parts, or should I wait?

I have a 48x96 table, two or 4 Vacuum motors? I am looking at LH6765-13 model motors. Cheap enough, should hold most anything I would reckon.

Feedback is appreciated.

David

[knight_toolworks]

always best to have vacuum. even if you don't always used it. I use nails and double sided tape and spray adhesive too depending.
two motors are pretty much all you need but it is good to have backup.

[gene]

I have a vac as well . Its good for big pieces and sheet goods. for smaller parts i use a nailer that shoots plastic nails called a raptor nail gun. a bit pricey but very effective

[richard_saylor]

Depends on what you want to hold down with a vacuum and how often you intend to use it.

[crash5050]

I intend to cut sheet goods, cabinets, entertainment centers, gun racks, etc...

[frank134]

then you better put the vac in. you will need it for sheet goods.

[curtiss]

Have you located some trupan for your top surface in Arkansas ?

[chuckster]

I would suggest vacuum if you to sheets of material to medium parts. I have a 10hp FPZ sitting here collecting woodchips since I dont have 3 phase anymore. I MISS MY VACUUM! Phase Converter is on it's way!:)

[crash5050]

Have you located some trupan for your top surface in Arkansas ?

No. I actually haven't looked yet.

[jerry_stanek]

I would cut the plenum in and set up to plumb it then machine the spoil board on both sides and glue it down. That way it would be just a matter of getting the pvc pipes and valves and a vac system if you need it

[crash5050]

I bought 4 motors today, as soon as I get my gantry turned 180 degrees and facing the right way, and SB sends me the X echain, I will go to work on the vac system.

Be warned, I am going to ask a lot of questions, and beg for photos, this vqac system is all new to me, I have been using rockler clamps and screws on my old machine.

David

[Brady Watson]

Get your machine running 1st...then get into the vacuum stuff. It's easy once you understand the principles.

Look through the archives on this forum, since just about any question you could ask has already been answered a gagillion times...Then ask the questions that fill in the gaps of your understanding.

-B

[crash5050]

After much reading, this is what I think I should do

1. 3/4 inch Baltic birch as the table support board
2. 3/4 MDF, routed into zones (SB has some pre programmed routines)
3. 3/4 MDF surfaced on both sides say 1/8th of an inch to remove the facing, then attached to the route "Plenum" board below. then comes the plumbing and stuff underneath the router. The big question is the best way to attach the spoil board to the plenum. Tight-bond glue does wonders with MDF, but replacing the board would be a PITA, because tight bond glue oozes into the board and it won't come apart without taking part of the other MDF with it. I thought about RTV gasket sealer, but it tends to dry rot over time.

So, all of that being typed I am entertaining options as to how to attach the spoil board to make it easier to change out once I cut thru it a few times.

I bought 4 lighthouse motors today, and I hope to be able to set them up like Gary has his setup (Hint to Gary, Lots of questions coming).

I took my meds so none of this may make sense in the morning.

Thanks for reading.

David

[crash5050]

Sorry Brady, read your post after typing mine....

[curtiss]

Have you measured the diagonals ?

If the two x rails are level, straight and parallel, the y car about "has to run true" above it.
If the y car is square, the Z movement will work properly.

For setting up, I made a large "T-square" out of some hardwood with a digital calipers taped to one end.

After getting one rail straight and level...

A shallow groove / saw kerf / on the "top of the T" lays on one rail. The calipers "depth guage" is attached to the bottom of the T will work as a "feeler gauge" and will show if the far rail is parallel to the first.

Everything is important but the parallel x rails have to come first.

[jerry_stanek]

You don't need to take that much off the spoil board just enough to remove the finished surface. I only had to take off .02 each side.