Router Bit Maintainence

[dhunt]

Having read on the internet that Oven Cleaner works wonders for cleaning stained router bits,
I tried it and it works very well for all but the most stubborn bits of concreted goop.

Within ten minutes of application,
90-95% of the ugly stuff is GONE.

Further applications of oven cleaner have little effect, although picking at it with a dentist's tool helps remove a bit more of the stubborn stuff, along with more oven cleaner.
Clearly, oven cleaner is The Initial Stuff to use,
although a higher power is then required.

My question is... what can I soak that stubborn stuff in,overnight, to move it?
Lacquer Thinners? Turpentine/Mineral Spirit?
- What?

[Brady Watson]

Denatured Alky...Oven cleaner is nasty stuff and I believe that it is highly alkaline. Much like an acid, it will eat away at your carbide cutters...and your lungs.

A bit of denatured and a toothbrush will clean off most anything with no residue. If you have tougher stuff to get off, good ol WD-40 will work with a brush as well. Then follow it up with a quick wash of the alky to remove any oil that could cause it to spin in the collet.

-Brady

[beacon14]

Crud Cutter, Greased Lighting, or similar cleaning products have worked well for me on sawblades - just let the stuff soak for a few minutes, scrub lightly with toothbrush or Scotchbrite pad, reapply and re-scrub as needed. Quite a bit less nasty than oven cleaner, but gloves and goggles still a good idea. I'll bet if you soak a router bit in a cup o' that stuff overnight it will wipe clean with a paper towel.

[mikejohn]

Does anyone re-sharpen straight fluted bits themselves?
Do you use diamond cards to do this?
.............Mike

[srwtlc]

I have tried the diamond card thing, but the edge is short lived. It works to get you by until the next real resharpening.

I have always used regular household ammonia in a tray for soaking sawblades and various cutters, followed with an old toothbrush.

Scott

[mziegler]

I have used a thin diamond hone with mixed results. Some bits will last awhile but most don't. What whould be great there be something for router bits as there the Drill Doctor is for drill bits. Mark

[dhunt]

Don't know how Drill Doctor works for drill bits
but I've often wondered if there exists a service whereby 2-inch long bits could be "cut back"
- by say 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch and 're-done'
thus giving them a second life?

---- ROUTER BIT REHAB! ----

We get thru quite a few of those expensive all carbide bits,
and have a small stash of dead ones that could be 'reborn'....

[mziegler]

David, I think it be difficult to cut the ends of the bits off without burning then. For parts at are cut all the way through, you could lower the cutter the thickness of the material. That would cut into your spoil board. Or better yet, you can simply fasten a old part to spoil board to raise up the new part so it cutting higher up on the cutter. Mark

[Brady Watson]

Carbide is not the easiest thing to cut...I wouldn't bother trying to sharpen the typical brazed-on 2-flute striaght bits...You are going to generate quite a bit of heat trying to sharpen them...this not only weakens the brazing, but it also makes the carbide eject from the flute. You may be able to use some kind of coolant...but then sharpening bits becomes a new business venture since you probably need to buy new equipment to do it properly.

Solid carbide may be the only tool worth sharpening...personally I think that sharpening most bits is a total waste of time. Too much material has to be removed to sharpen them correctly and then you have to remember to toolpath your parts correctly...and the exact dimensions of your sharpened tool when you go into the office to design. Just a big pain if you ask me...This of course would only make sense for people who go through 100 or more bits per month.

Just my .02,
-Brady