Conductive dust collection hose

[Greybarn]

it is time to replace the dust collection hose on my machine. Does anyone have a good source for 2.5" ID conductive hose? Ideally it wuold be clear but I am not sure if that is possible for the conductive hose.
Regards
Peter

[Brady Watson]

Woodcraft sells the clear hose, if you have a store nearby. Otherwise, there are plenty of sources online. NONE of the hoses you'll find (unless you want to pay $25 a foot) will have provisions for proper grounding incorporated into the hose. It is best to buy local, because you can see & feel what you are going to get before you buy. Some online sources sell the lighter dryer vent type hose which doesn't last very long - then add a bare copper wire to the hose when you have installed it. .023" MIG (not flux core) welding wire works great.

-B

[rb99]

Can you not just tap into the wire that is built into the hose for grounding?

[Brady Watson]

Can you not just tap into the wire that is built into the hose for grounding?

No. The spiral wire is there for structural support ONLY. Since it is completely encapsulated by the hose material (PVC or other insulation), it will have practically zero static wicking potential. This is a common thing that most people neglect to think about. Run the bare wire through it and terminate the DC end to electrical ground only. The other end can just clip onto the dust foot or get folded over the hose opening. If you terminate it at the foot end to the machine chassis, you could create a ground loop which is no fun...

-B

[rb99]

What about hose with built in grounding?

Will you tell me more about it please?

If I ground regular hose does the wire interfear with the dust and clog the hose?

[Brady Watson]

There are industrial hoses available out there starting at around $25 and up per foot, last I checked. I don't have a part number for you off the top of my head...since I would not pay $25 or more per foot for something I can cobble together much cheaper...

No. The little wire in there will not interfere any appreciable amount in regard to airflow or clogging.

-B

[rb99]

Do you weave the wire inside and outside the hose or does it just hang loose inside?

[Brady Watson]

It just hangs loose. Ball up a rag, wrap with the wire and turn on the DC, throttling it until it gets near the DC. Then pull out the rest by hand. Wire is small enough to either poke out the side or bring out the end of the tube & tie off where necessary.

-B

[rb99]

It just hangs loose. Ball up a rag, wrap with the wire and turn on the DC, throttling it until it gets near the DC. Then pull out the rest by hand. Wire is small enough to either poke out the side or bring out the end of the tube & tie off where necessary.

-B

Great thanks for the rag tip. I have some copper wire used to tie off neon tubing I might use...

[garyc]

Peter...
You may be in luck. The 2" and 2.5" sizes are cheaper. Around $40 for a 10' length

Google "ESD safe vacuum hose"

[jTr]

Hey Brady -

I'm using a heavy duty ($60) clear 4" x10'. Simply "stripped" ~5" of that spiral out of hose on each end - securely fastened that wire to metal duct work leading directly to cyclone, who's case is grounded back to breaker.

On the other end, I've inserted that stripped wire through a small hole in Kent shoe hose connection at the spindle- bare wire extends through dust path, engaging particles as they're pulled in. Tech support has expressed this should be satisfactory.

Do you think I'm tempting the dreaded lost comm screen by not lining full length of flex internally with additional copper line?

jeff

[kurt_rose]

Harbor Fright has a really heavy duty clear hose. It comes in 10' lengths. I know a lot of people think they sell junk but sometimes you find a gem. Been on my first one for 2 years now with no sign of problems. $20.00. Brady's grounding tip works great. I cut a lot of foam and haven't had any problem with static.
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-inch-x-10-ft-transparent-dust-collector-hose-96478.html

[garyc]

Guys...
Here is a short doc that provides some tips and info from in the field experience from myself, Brady, and others. I used the worst DC we had for the example.

The level of ESD (electrostatic discharge) is dependent on humidity, materials being cut AND the length and/or composition of the non-conductive portions of the DC system. There is an industry built around controlling it in computer controlled equipment and communication systems.

In some systems, the properly connected embedded wire is enough. When it isnt, a wire thru the hose is the next step. In a number of cases, installing the high end hoses was the only solution that eliminated the problem. **Make sure to verify that the connection point on the DC housing is actually connected to the electrical system ground**

[Brady Watson]

In some systems, the properly connected embedded wire is enough. When it isnt, a wire thru the hose is the next step.

Thanks for the PDF, Gary.

I run the wire through the hose no matter what. It isn't worth pulling your hair out trying to track down a COM problem after you have mentally 'checked off' that you grounded the DC system. Why do that to yourself? The hoses vary a lot from one manufacturer to another...some are effective, some are not. The only 100% for sure solution to the problem is to run a wire inside the hose.

-B

[myxpykalix]

It isn't worth pulling your hair out trying to track down a COM problem after you have mentally 'checked off' that you grounded the DC system

Especially those of us who have no hair to pull, right Brady?;)

When i first got my bot i was having the same issues and in fact i think it was Brady who told me about the copper wire in the DC and to this day i have never had another issue with that.:D

[Greybarn]

Thank you for all of the advice on the hose. I am getting 20LF of 2.5" ID clear hose from Peachtree Woodworking. I will let you know how it works out.
Regards
Peter