Just purchase z-axis proximity switch

[jhedlund58]

looking for install instructions.... shopbot says my backplate is ready for this add-on. was hoping to find installation instructions prior to delivery.... granted shopbot will and always have been VERY helpful.

[Brady Watson]

It threads into the YZ car just below the Z motor, not too far up from the top Y rail. You must take great care and make sure that you wire it properly on that end so that it doesn't get caught up or snagged on anything. It will be really close to the Y e-chain. Point the tail end of the connector UP and run a couple zip ties around the body of the Z motor to secure it. Then continue up and into the e-chain.

-B

[jhedlund58]

on the back is my understanding from chris and frank... guess i dont really see or understand how it works. not sure why i need it, but was resetting base coordinates to proximity switches and thought it b good idea to add the z.

just bought a long bit to make son an electric guitar and have never attempted to use this much of the z.

really... if shopbot thought they were necessay probably wood b installed from factory. even at $140 cost after shippin and handling. small addition to total cost of machine.

i glad i adding it

[adrianm]

I added a Z prox switch to my PRS for a fiver. I changed the z-zero routines so they use the Z switch to set the Safe Z and I modified the Post Processors to use the system variable for Safe Z rather than the value specified in the material setup.

This way I never have the issue of the Z retracting too far when I use longer than usual bits and forget to manually adjust the Z settings.

As you says it's a nice to have rather than an essential but I'm glad I did it.

[Brady Watson]

This is not the best description or pics...but it's what's out there at the moment: http://www.shopbotdocs.com/ATC-Installation-Manual.html#Connecting_the_Z-axis_Prox_Switch

Keep in mind that in order to use it the way that you want to, you may have to modify the ATC C3 command. If I remember correctly, it will do the Z first, by raising it all the way up, then the Y, then the X. You'll have to parse out all the extra non-ATC stuff in the file so that it doesn't error out.

-B

[dana_swift]

Jeff- Your situation will probably be different than mine, but here is what I did:

http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/showthread.php?p=131007#post131007

On that thread I posted code and photos and explanation.

D

[GeneMpls]

Hi Dana... lounging in the Keys and missing my BT. I take it that our
early prs's do not have the hole for the switch? Or was the switch you
had too large? Gene

[dana_swift]

Gene- the only reason I used the particular switch I did is it was on hand. If I was buying a switch, I would buy one like the X and Y limits use. There was nothing special about that particular switch. :)

Last time I was in the Keys I nearly froze to death.. hope its nicer now!

D

[GeneMpls]

Very nice... last year it rained every day. So... do our machines have
the hole? I can't touch mine for another week. Thanks Gene

[jhedlund58]

Received my packeage late yesterday... WoW fast


on the hole in the backplate... i was told by shopbot that that hole for z-axiz prox is fairly recent addition... guess thats a relative term... my machine is almost 2 years old and has it. i had to send them a pic for confirmation. attached is said pic. this pic is from the front... but the hole is in the back directly below the z-axis motor and above the y rail.... the front was enuff for them to say 'yes that is the backplate with pre-drilled and tapped hole' i was happy and orderred

I probably going to call them monday to talk this out before i get started.... my big secret has always been to read instructions before assembly on anything... many times first step has to be done first etc. no instructions in box... i must suppose to know what i doing..... ooops!!!


questions:

switch itself has two nuts. the y switch has a nut on each side of backplate locking it in place... how to get back nut on z-axis. Looks like i have to take spindle off. hopefully that's it... as it came in a box and i put it on... i not sure

how / where to position the contact lug... again looks like spindle has to come off..

the wiring has been addressed by posts and i understand... haven't really looked at coding yet, but posts address this as well


I been all over this forum and documentation preparing myself for install.

[Brady Watson]

You should not need to pull the spindle off...and you only need one of those 13mm nuts on the outside, as long as the plate is tapped, like on the X & Y attachment points. There is no magic here...Just make sure there is a target (bolt head) that the proxy will be able to sense & adjust the depth of the proxy so that it has about .03" or so 'gap' between it & the end of the sensor. Take care not to sheer off the sensor...the Z has enough torque to do that!

-B

[jhedlund58]

thank you brady... and I could double nut from outside as well.

How about the stop lug position... seems to me i should put stop lug in first and adjust the switch to that...

[Brady Watson]

I don't know off the top of my head. It's been a few months since I messed with an ATC.

-B

[jhedlund58]

you have been very helpful and i gettin closer!!!... just trying to get my questions in order... also noticed that i going to have to get into control box. i have 10 cables going in and not sure how to properly feed this new one.

i do have input #5 available... so this should help in my coding as dana's sample uses that and pretty sure his mod was on a buddy.

[Brady Watson]

1/4" drive ratchet & 13mm deep socket to remove wire seal assembly @ control box. Wiggle one of the 1/2 blocks out & pull out enough rubber to sneak that new proxy in. The insulation on those completely sucks...so, take care. You'll have to pull back about 6" so that you can span all 3 terminal locations.

Have a rag or paper towel ready to wipe the silicone duck butter off your hands. I hate that stuff...worse than napalm!

-B

[jhedlund58]

thanks again... i am in process of looking at dana's code... and went back to his posts... looks like he does have a buddy and is using input 5 AND did exact same thing i am trying... soooooo, i hoping by using inupt5 his code will be what i need. i trying to determine if he set up new variable for zatlimit.... on first glance looks like a routine and he accepting value from ON INPUT(5,1)

this is gonna take bit more time as this is my first attempt at custom code

gettin closer!!!

napalm was some pretty nasty stuff... sure dow chemicals had no intention of using it on people.... our govt must not have read the instructions.... ahhhhhhh

[jhedlund58]

Here some pics of where the cables come into control box.... one from inside and one from outside.... is that single round place on top ...one that looks dark on inside ands silver on outside above the other wires...where i put this z-axis prox cable?

[Brady Watson]

Either one...I forgot that this was a BT...so you got it pre-assembled. Undo the 13mm nut, pull out the 2 wedges and then remove the top most blue & black block. Peel away 2 or 3 'onion layers' of rubber from ONE side of EACH top & bottom half, and then put the new cable in there. It will share the same space as one of the others. Then replace the wedges and tighten up the nut, after you have wired up & added proper strain relief etc.

-B