View Full Version : Rikon stand alone indexer
bob_dodd
03-25-2013, 08:27 PM
I've been cleaning the corners of the shop and collected enough parts to do this indexer build . The Rikon lathe I had set up across the Y axis , with a timing belt set up 72 tooth gear and a 20 tooth gear for 3.6 to 1 ,If I swap out belts I can use as a lathe , for the X travel there is rack and pinion with a PK 296 3.6 , The Z axis is also rack and pinion PK 296 3.6 , the control board is a old PRT BOARD which is fast enough for the turning that I do.
myxpykalix
03-25-2013, 09:58 PM
That is clearly the work of a "Tinkerer"!:D
That is really cool. What is the length of your material you can use on it?
Here's a question i had...what axis did you assign this, X or Y? I guess it doesn't really matter as long as you create your files using the same axis assignments right? Good job:D
So does it have a x y and z Travel ? if you wanted to make a corbel will it do that?
myxpykalix
03-26-2013, 03:22 AM
If the long axis is X it doesn't look to me like it has a Y axis, it looks likes its mounted solid but i can't see it all. Regardless it's cool...:cool:
phil_o
03-26-2013, 08:36 AM
Thanks for posting the information.
Phil
bob_dodd
03-26-2013, 12:24 PM
I made a block the height of center of material , to zero the Z easy
Jack I can fit 40" in the indexer , and swing 5" , I use it as the X axis , as I like to design that way.
Gene it has B , X , Z AXIS , That is a interesting thought though about the Y , Something to think about
Brady Watson
03-26-2013, 03:11 PM
Neat trick with the block, Bob. I hadn't thought of that one.
I wound up epoxying a piece of AL angle to the top of the tailstock and measured the distance to center. Then wrote a Custom Cut so that I can just put the Zzero plate on it & zero to that.
-B
bob_dodd
03-26-2013, 04:15 PM
Brady ; Now that's what great about the forum , people come up with different ways of doing things ,
myxpykalix
03-26-2013, 10:13 PM
Gee Bob I can't imagine where you came up with that fantastic idea for a jig to measure center:rolleyes::D lol
What i like about doing it this way is that you just slap your jig up on the indexer bed do a c2 and you're done. I have even forgotten to do it before i mounted my material and you can lay your jig next to your material and c2 or even padst your headstock and measured.
What i don't like about some of these offset methods others use is that if something corrupts your settings you won't have a disaster...(maybe?)
Anyway good job, i'm real impressed with your indexer:D
Brady Watson
03-26-2013, 11:34 PM
What i don't like about some of these offset methods others use is that if something corrupts your settings you won't have a disaster...(maybe?)
This is why God made Sharpie markers....Write the value down somewhere near where you zero, or just remeasure it. It ain't rocket science :p
What happens if you lose your magic block? :eek:
-B
myxpykalix
03-27-2013, 06:11 AM
Duh... I ain't never thunked about that!:) lol
I'm not sure i understand what you mean about "Write the value down somewhere near where you zero, or just remeasure it".
What i normally do when i'm locating something on the table is:
do a c3
manually move carriage to center of material on location of table
write down those coordinates
then Zero X, Y
So do you mean basically do the same thing only in the Z axis?
Brady Watson
03-27-2013, 09:48 AM
Ahh...No. :D
Zero on the indexer for 99% of projects is going to be a constant height - the center of the lathe/indexer. The top of my tailstock is exactly 1.504" above the center of the lathe...I write that number down on top of the ts. Worst case, I just chuck up a vbit and remeasure the distance from the top of the ts to center, and re-enter it into my Custom4.
-B
myxpykalix
03-27-2013, 10:41 AM
AAAAhh....as you can see i have not mastered the art of "snatching the pebble" yet Master Po:D I didn't understand what you meant...thanks
chiloquinruss
03-27-2013, 01:36 PM
"What happens if you lose your magic block?" Isn't that getting just a little too personal! :D
I still want an indexer but for the life of me I just can;t seem to figure out why! Russ
myxpykalix
03-27-2013, 03:15 PM
Since when have we EVER had to justify a reason for buying a tool?:confused:
I can give you one good reason Russ...when you make your little building for models, make a barbershop and in front of the barbershop you need a spiral barber pole!:eek:
That is as good a reason as any other i could come up with!:D
waynelocke
03-27-2013, 03:24 PM
I affixed a piece of plexiglass to the top of my tailstock and trued it with the SB. I use my regular ZZero aluminum piece on top of it. I made a custom C4 file with the ZZero routine with the appropriate offset to the center of the headstock. No need for a Sharpie.
Brady Watson
03-27-2013, 04:58 PM
I affixed a piece of plexiglass to the top of my tailstock and trued it with the SB. I use my regular ZZero aluminum piece on top of it. I made a custom C4 file with the ZZero routine with the appropriate offset to the center of the headstock. No need for a Sharpie.
Yep...I've done the exact same thing...Except I DO write the distance from the top of the TS to centerline on there with Sharpie, because the newer versions of SB3 WILL overwrite Custom Cuts if you happen to be asleep at the wheel while installing...So if C4 goes bye-bye, a quick glance and I know what the value is...and I can quickly make a new C4.
I remember the DOS days when Unit Values required an act of congress to get right...so I wrote them down near the bot...It saved my butt a few times those early years.
-B
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