Laminating HDU

[joe]

Making monument signs with an EPS core is easy. However you can do the same thing with all HDU and it's also cheap. Here's the trick. I seldom order 1.5" sheets. It's the 1" material that's the workhorse.

The interior of these signs are fortified with scrap HDU. I've given up on the EPS core because it can expand and split the sign wide open. That can be easily managed by the application of caps as per the second panel in the back. This is a vital step.

When routing wood-grain in 1" HDU the depth is set for .40". The Holiday Heights sign is a good example of the amount of texture.

I have plenty more examples is anyone is interested. It's all HDU from here on

Joe Crumley
www.normansignco.com (http://www.normansignco.com)

[JohnG]

top notch work. I love the colors also.

And thanks for EPS tip.

[tomwillis]

Joe - I'm interested....but also would be interested in any painting tips. Not currently in a position to pay....but at some future point could be and would be willing to pay for your expertise. I was working on a 12" diam foam Euro (exact replica) - with reverse side blank that could be 3d cut with anything....and thought an old world patina would be cool. Left it to work on a soap mold but want to get back to it.
Tom

[dakers]

Joe, here is one we did back in about 1996 with signfoam.
we used baffles inside to allow two steel pipes to go up into sign.
i never thought of using 1'' for the exterior. that would have made it alot less expensive. i can't recall all the details but we went to buying peachtree foamcraft signs shortly after making these.
i will look for more of these in our files

[dakers]

here are a few more signfoam monuments we made in the 90's
the only thing i was concerned about were weed wackers and lawn mowers if we did not have a mulch bed or some landscape stone around sign.

[GlenP]

Hey Joe. Good to hear from you. I am definitely interested in seeing more and techniques from you. Hope all is well.
Cheers,

[danhamm]

Joe, where you been....nice to see some words from yuh..been worried, thought maybe you went to Roswell for another look see.!!!

[joe]

Dan,

Thanks for checking up on me. Yes I was almost abducted at last years Roswell UFO Festival. Luckily I jumped on my scoot in a nick of time. I tell ya they were after me on all sides! I threw on the HOG after burner and got out of town. It was close. Don't ever go there if you value your life.

I'm like Dick A and others who have made HDU signs that have lasted. Don't get me wrong. However there have been some significant failures when laminating. HDU loves HDU and that's about all. So now I'm using .50" & 1" for front and back. The build up, around the top bottom and sides are only 1"X2" scraps. The interiors are fortified with lots of scraps. Most of my panels are 4" to 6" deep. They look beefy, save lots of money and last.

The middle photo is showing my secret way to prime HDU fast. I plop down a glob of Crack Filler and squeege it off. All off. That fills those peskey little HDU holes and she's dry in thirty minutes for the DTM Acrylic Enamel. I almost never use any other priming technique. When it comes to the textured area's I use a cheap 2" chip brush and moosh the Crack Filler down in all the cracks and crevices. You gotta loosen up to do this job right. A little New Orleans Zidaco Music will help. Zidaco make the primer flow much better. Don't take my word for it. You'll see.



Joe Crumley
www.normansignco.com (http://www.normansignco.com)

[bleeth]

Rock and Roll Dr. C!!!!

[mjindustry]

Amazing signs Joe! Thank you for sharing your techniques.

[GeneMpls]

Hi Joe- nice stuff. What crack filler are you speaking of? When I google I
get asphalt crack filler... thinking that that is not it? ;) Thanks Gene

[joe]

Greetings All,

As we all know, HDU comes if thousands of voids that need to be attended. When using 20lb and higher this isn't as much of a challenge but I've found a thick paste like exterior spackle to be a quick method for filling these voids. Liquid primers are, for me, are waste of time. I often use a window squeete or screen squeege to smooth off flat furfaces. It make the surfaces smooth as a baby's behind. NO SANDING.

The panel below was made with 1" Duna. I like SignFoam as an alternative. My current experiments are with 1" PVC. Looks promising as a tougher and cheaper alternative. It's major downside is sanding.

Joe Crumley
www.normansignco.com

[rej]

joe,
how long have you been using the exterior spackle?
is this article wrong?
http://www.trimlinepaintinginc.com/dont-use-spackle/

[joe]

Robert,

You should re-read his second paragraph carefully. The complaint is about bridging gaps not filling small holes.

I wouldn't post this technique without being absolutely positive about it's success. Try PB's "Crack Filler". That's necessary when using their HDU.

Joe Crumley
www.normansignco.com (http://www.normansignco.com)

[rej]

I was just going by this paragraph

Spackle is a bad idea for most wall repairs and is always a bad idea for exteriors. I know that you can go to the store and get a jar of this stuff that says “exterior spackle” on the label, but the reality is that there is no such thing as exterior spackle. Regardless of what a products label says there is no good reason to ever buy a jar of exterior spackle nor is it ever a good idea to apply it to an outside. PERIOD!

but i'll take your word for it that it works, thanks.

[joe]

Robert,

Now you got me laughing. You know, "If it's on the internet it's gotta be true."

Spackle is a German term. It's used to describe a putty, pastes and salves to fill voids. Since you're conducting a workshop and that should be in the course study. This is the stuff everyone needs to know.

Some of excellent materials are. Bondo, Durhams Rockhard Putty, ThinSet and Crack Filler by Coastal, etc. There are many to choose from.

I'd bet you remember my introducing you to "Crack Filler" at on of your workshops and how it's used for texturing . Ok now lets reach for our Thinking Cap.

Joe Crumley
www.normansignco.com (http://www.normansignco.com)

[jerry_stanek]

I have used Dependable Crack filler on A lot of things. It comes as a powder and you can mix it as thick as you like. Also If you use it make sure you clean up your tools as it will set up under water.

[joe]

Thats right Jerry,

These materials are as important to our craft as screws and glue.

One of the downfalls to forums where few experienced professional craftmen are sharing information the questions can become tedious and mundane. For that reason I'll refrain from answering questions that can be addressed by others.

Now it's time to head to work. I trust everyone has lots of fun today.

Joe Crumley
www.normansignco.com (http://www.normansignco.com)