Marquetry

[donek]

This is the latest tutorial video created for the Donek Drag Knives. It shows you how to produce marquetry or inlaid veneer. Click the image to go to the video.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-fPSGGRdjcV8/UcN7IwVoDeI/AAAAAAAAADI/VcfAqZdQ33w/w638-h388-no/holding+two+signs.jpg (http://youtu.be/63u9idcyVhA)

[Bob Eustace]

Sean, beautiful work and yes we will be getting one! Now the video moves tooooo fast for an oldie! What is paper backed veneer please. You completely skipped how you glue it all together? Would it be possible to show the technique in another video please? Has a disaster once trying to install vinyl lettering on a motorhome.

[donek]

Sean, beautiful work and yes we will be getting one! Now the video moves tooooo fast for an oldie! What is paper backed veneer please. You completely skipped how you glue it all together? Would it be possible to show the technique in another video please? Has a disaster once trying to install vinyl lettering on a motorhome.

Paper backed veneer is commonly sold in 4X8 sheets. You can also purchase 2 play veneer which is essentially a very thin plywood. In producing this video, I experimented with pressure sensitive adhesive backed veneer as well.

In order to easily cut the veneer it's necessary to stabilize it in some manner. By stabilizing, I guess I mean you strengthen it in all directions. With regular veneers I've done this with tape. The problem is the tape has to be removed at some point. Given that cutting from the back side of the veneer produces the best finish, the tape has to be removed from very small parts which are prone to breaking.

Pressure sensitive adhesive backed veneer is possibly a good solution, but after cutting, you have to remove the PSA backing paper one component at a time. In other words, I had to remove the backing from the E and then the N... and then from the arrow shape, and finally from the outside boarder. All the time being careful not to get dust or something in the PSA while my fingers were sticking to everything I touched.

I decided to look into 2 ply veneer, but it is more difficult to obtain. Paper backed veneer can be obtained from major lumber chains in 4X8 sheets very easily. Rockler sells it in smaller sheets as well. The paper on the back seems to be a very strong fibrous material. It's nothing like your printer paper. It stabilizes the veneer very well and allows the knife be less impacted by the veneers grain.

After cutting the inlay components, you simply assemble them like a puzzle and tape them together from the top surface. You then laminate your veneer to your substrate and remove the tape after the glue dries. It's not typically advised to use your usual yellow glue. Most people suggest solvent based glues. I use a great deal of epoxy and it is readily available to me. There are some modified PVA glues (like your yellow glue) that can be used. I found some good information about glues here:
http://www.veneersupplies.com/categories/Veneering__Supplies/Veneer__Glue/
They also carry paper backed veneer and when I e-mailed them they answered my questions quickly.

I'm happy to answer any other questions. I could possible put together a video that details the hand work.

[Joseph clements]

I have a question hsd spindle dose not recommend drilling
Because of the upward force on the bearings.
What about the upward force from this cutter ?

[bleeth]

No spindle manufacturer recommends drilling. Everyone drills with their spindle.
Properly controlled drilling takes into account the diameter of the bit and uses reasonable "peck drilling" settings and plunge speed based on the material as well so there is not unreasonable force put on the bearings. Correct settings also take into account which specific spindle you are using.
Since this thread is about cutting veneer you darn sure aren't going to be plunging very deep and even with a small bit you don't need to "ramp" in.!!
If you are asking about other drilling then you should post it in an appropriate thread or start your own so those who are into the thread topic of veneer inlay can converse without distraction as well as give all specifics you can about machine, spindle, and what you want to do in what material.
Not trying to flame-just guide.

[donek]

I have a question hsd spindle dose not recommend drilling
Because of the upward force on the bearings.
What about the upward force from this cutter ?

There really is almost no upward force with this cutter. In addition axial loads (upward forces) are a much bigger problem for a spindle when it is rotating. As you don't turn on your spindle when using a drag knife, that component is removed. We use much smaller roller bearings in the drag knife than the roller bearings in your spindle, so they will exhibit problems far more rapidly than your spindle would. We used a previous version of this tool (same bearings) from 2001 until 2012 without ever changing them.

The bottom line is that the forces applied to your spindle and bearings are going be much smaller than those applied when cutting with a rotating cutter.

[Brady Watson]

Well done, Sean. Great stuff as usual!

-B