Rough Cedar

[joe]

A few years back I discovered Sikkens natural stains and that got me off on a new start in finishing. Up to that time I was hesitant to offer natural wood because it wouldn't hold up to the weather. I had tried most, if not all coatings on the market, but was sorely disappointed.

About the same time I ventured into using rough cedar. It comes unfinished and wet. But what the heck lets see what happens. Well it worked out well and become one of my favorites. But you must accept some knots. I've grown to love em.

Here's one of the tricks when doing detail. You need a sharp 1/16 down spiral for the first pass or two. Lets say .25 deep. This helps keep the little serifs and detail in place. After that continue with your regular .25 bit. Another advantage to damp lumber is the way small detail doesn't shear off. I also though no stain would soak in and last. This stain doesn't seem to care. One of their offerings is "Log & Siding". You know by the title it's good for outdoor lumber.

Here's a little panel I posted about some time ago. Just found the photo of an in process sign.

Please Note: The letters are outline versions. I almost always cut my letters as separate items to be applied after painting. This saves a ton of time in finishing.

Joe Crumley

[kartracer63]

Joe,

Cedar offers up some real challenges. But, once you get to know the wood, it's pretty predictable and easy to work with.

It's also pretty affordable and readily available in most areas.

I know you like the vertical grains, and they do look nice. But, I've found that I get a lot less chip-out with horizontal grained boards.

Cedar is also very easy to edge glue into larger planks, and very stable as long as you alternate the end grains.

And... it's very easy on equipment (and smells good too).

Cheers!

[joe]

Eric,

Excellent point about vertical grain. It's seldom when I see a plank of VG cedar but, like you say, it doesn't route very well. However when sandblasting it the material of choice.

Working with Cedar as opposed to most other woods is like riding a Harley as opposed to a BMW twin. Rough cedar isn't very sophisticated and is difficult to end up with lots of small detail. Still a fellow can make a good living with it.

Joe
wwwnormansignco.com

[bobmoore]

Now you are talking about real material. Both the cedar and the Sikkens are a couple of my favorites. Archeologists won't find either one 5000 years from now which is a good thing in my opinion. For best results slow those feed rates down.
Bob

[bob_s]

Joe
Is that western red cedar?
In Atlanta I can get Spanish cedar and wondered if its very different?

[bobmoore]

Western red cedar is what we are talking about here. The box stores have it for equivalent $ 2.50 - 3.00 bf although it is a softwood and not sold by the bf. Spanish cedar or cigar box cedar is an import that carves well but approximately twice the price. It is always a little scary buying wood by its common name as those can change by region. Always use scientific names if any doubt.
Bob

[Ajcoholic]

Spanish Cedar (Cedro) is more like a fine mahogany.

Western Red Cedar (what I use here for my signs) is more commonly used for siding, exterior trim, etc. as well as canoe and boat construction. But it is pretty expensive in my neck of the woods for the select (clear). Common/knotty isnt too bad.

Sikens (I use Cetol 1 and Cetol 23) is one of the best exterior wood finishes. My parents have their entire house done in WRC, and SIkens Cetol - done in the mid 1980's and recoated maybe once every 5 to 8 years.

I have done a lot of garden furniture, exterior doors, etc in WRC and Sikens - they stand the test of time (and we have a very harsh winter season).

I wont use anything else.

[joe]

AC,

I agree entirely with you on Sikkens topic. I often combine the Cetol with Log and siding in a blending process.

For those who aren't familiar with these products here's my findings. Log and Siding is very thick and takes a couple of days to set up before handling. You should have a well ventilated room or it will, for sure, make you sick. When dry it glosses up nicely. No need to double coat. Please notice I even used the SRD Cedar in a brush for the drop shade on the Pet Clinic letters. It flows out nicely in a 1/2" flat just like One Shot.

When blending I use their SRD Blond, Cedar, and their Window & Door in Mahagony. This is a wet on wet process. If you ever get the hang of this technique, gone will be the days of using only one color.

I'm amazed when I hear Western Red Cedar is pricey. What we're getting isn't clear heart. It's construction grade and cheap. A 2"X6"X8' is about $12.00. That means a 2'X8' panel costs less than $50. Just think, the same size HDU is three times that amount. And HDU has no Soul.

[joe]

Here is another blending technique using Sikkens. It's on HDU panel. I believe I could achieve the same effect using the new "Nova Paint" It comes in translucent and opaque colors. And they have brilliant colors far beyond anything on the market today. I've been combining them with my regular latex paints.

www.novacolors.com (http://www.novacolors.com)

Joe Crumley
www.normansignco.com (http://www.normansignco.com)