Methods I use

[carlhopkins]

1) I use the Blum solo slides, I pocket the back rail to receive the bracket it makes fitting drawers a dream compared to any single captive slide.
Also you can use their soft close slides with the same box.

2) Corner base cabinets, you don't have to be a cabinet maker to know how much space is lost or hard to access that space is. I have shared similar to this but this one has a lazy Susan with drawers above. Also the boxes are set up to appear as one once installed and also makes for more use of the given space by reducing face frame material.

3) Valance installed with hinges, again I have shared this method but this time no window so the cabinet could span left, right and above the sink in one box.

These are all made easier with the bot. Makes a better product with less effort.

These with stain are rustic Alder custom stain.

[jTr]

Nice work, Carl. I too enjoy using the bot for better management and quicker fastening of hardware. Great thinking on the recesses for the rear slide mounts!

Are you happy with the quality and operation of those slides? I'm having a tough time settling on a self-closing under-mount, as even the home center cabinets are using what looks like Grass brand premium slides in their $300-$500 vanity cabs - hard to be competitive when those slides retail at $25 to $35 a pair.

Also - how about that other buzz-word in cabinetry: Dovetails.
Are you using them for drawer construction and if so, do you use the bot to produce?

Thanks!
jeff

[dlcw]

Carl and Jeff,

I have settle on KV MUV concealed softclose slides. I use the CNC to cut all my drawer parts and have settled on mortise and tenon joinery (cut on the CNC). The CNC punches all the holes and cuts the notches for the slides. The CNC saves a LOT of time making drawer boxes.

The KV slides carry the same warranty as Blum but run about $2-$3 less per pair. As a professional cabinet shop I can get these for a pretty reasonable price. I also only bid on medium to high level kitchens so pricing is usually not as big an issue as cut-throat low end kitchens.

When a customer wants dovetailed maple boxes (and is willing to pay for them), I have a cabinet drawer box, cabinet door maker that can make these for a lot less then I can (I don't have any dovetailing machine).

I tend to make drawers in corner cabinets unless the customer would die if they didn't have a lazy susan. :confused:

[carlhopkins]

Thanks Jeff,

I really do like how smooth the Solo slides work, I have been so very slow since 2008 as far as kitchen cabinets. I have not been able to use this method many times but it does work very well.

I was using the 1284 slides and what a pain to fit. I tried this method for them and the non captive side is still very hard. I had used the Solo once before and just as a test gave it a try on those and fell in love with it.
One thing I do not understand is you "must" ask for the brackets "L" & "R" I have no idea why they should come with them.

As for dove tail boxes. I have been in business since 2004 and only been requested once to do them. I did build a coffee counter for my church and made one drawer box with dove tail for it. I bought a jig from Rockler and then I saw where one of the guru's on bot had made a rather nice jig and routine to make them on the bot. I do want to get that set up but with this economy I had to take a day job so my shop has had to take a back seat.

I have just done two jobs back to back this Summer so Maybe that is a good sign that some things are beginning to turn around.

again many thanks Carl

[jTr]

Don-
What material do you use for the drawers? Is that joinery similar to the eCabs style?

I agree with you, if budget's not there, don't bother - just seems interesting that lately the low ball people have the most specific expectations and require all those buzz words to be covered - dovetails, soft close, solid wood,etc.

However, dovetail drawers are a must for many of the furniture pieces I do - I've been making them with a Katie jig - decent results but quite time consuming, so....
Right now, I'm digging into dovetails on the bot, courtesy of Gary Campbell's web article. It's helping me to understand the programming end of these machines as well - been fun to open/study the files he's shared along with the jig construction.
When up and running, maybe I should share my results.

Carl - thanks again for the post - hope things continue to go your way!

jeff

[dlcw]

Jeff,

I use 5/8" baltic birch with the eCabs mortise and tenon joinery. For small drawers I use a 1/4" prefinished American maple ply bottom. For larger drawers or drawers that are going to be holding heavier items, I use 1/2" prefinished American maple ply. I finish the 5/8" baltic birch with MLCampbell Duravar conversion varnish - 3 coats on the inside, 2 coats on the outside. Have never had a drawer problem.

When low-budget people come to me asking for all the bells and whistles and then tell me that their budget is along the lines of big box store off the shelf particle board cabinets, I refer them to a big box store.

Not many custom cabinet makers, I know of, can beat the off the shelf el-cheapo particle board stuff. But if that is what they can afford, that's fine. I won't take the time or jump through hoops to put an estimate together for them knowing they are on a very small budget. Wastes mine and their time.