Anyone straightened a warped Z plate-Perfectly?

[scottp55]

Turns out the Z-plate on the second Desktop has a slight bow in the middle (I didn't catch that:(). Now that I'm 375 miles south, I told Kirk to get a perfectly flat piece of maple and cautiously tap it back flat, then thought to stick in wood vise and CRANK it, then thought same vise with a shim the same as the Gap and cranking it, THEN,---THEN thought we're probably not the only people that have had to deal with it. Anybody been PERFECTLY happy with the way they did it? I know,I know----Super-Zero. But fixing it today would be great.
MINE is FLAT, so I don't want to experiment. Thanks, scott

[bleeth]

They're pretty thin and bend easy. Mine bows down in the middle so I just hold the ends down when zeroing. Pretty low tech answer. Replacing it with sturdier stuff is pretty easy too.

[cowboy1296]

This was on one of the training films. But I took a sharpies and marked an "x" on the plate so I could always use the same spot. Plus I hold the ends down while zeroing. Plus I attempt (in case the board is a little warped) to always zero at the same place on the stock material.

[scottp55]

Thanks guys, Already have a 1" circle marked with X where we measured the plate(as well as a green ribbon to remind of continuity test:) ). Dave-must be nice to have 2 hands on the plate, and your other one on the mouse(didn't even notice your 3'rd hand in your avatar:) ). Low tech indeed(I like my "bigger hammer" approach). I was wondering why we had to mod a file for a .03" groove to .05" at Kirk's shop when it was fine in mine. Should have looked for the reason.

[bleeth]

The z comes down slow enough that it isn't an issue to press enter and then hold the plate. I use the mouse as little as possible.

[srwtlc]

If you need more time to get to the plate after hitting enter, modify the zero routine by adding a PAUSE 5 or however long you need. Saves having to grow a third arm/hand. ;)

[bcondon]

I would get it as close as I could using a vice or better yet, a press...

Put a small washer on each end of the plate and push down in the center. You need to go slightly beyond flat because the plate will just spring back... Use a straight edge to see how close it is...

Next use a belt sander on the bottom of the plate... use a sharpee to draw lines and then gently touch the plate to the belt sander... I would use a 120 or finer belt and very light pressure until the sharpee marks go away.

Then adjust your settings table.


-or- have Shopbot service overnight a new plate to you... Frank will help you out...

Bob Condon

[universaldenial]

As of right now I am using the low tech method of applying pressure to make it flat. Which seems to work

[gerryv]

Thanks guys, Already have a 1" circle marked with X where we measured the plate(as well as a green ribbon to remind of continuity test:) ). Dave-must be nice to have 2 hands on the plate, and your other one on the mouse(didn't even notice your 3'rd hand in your avatar:) ). Low tech indeed(I like my "bigger hammer" approach). I was wondering why we had to mod a file for a .03" groove to .05" at Kirk's shop when it was fine in mine. Should have looked for the reason.

Hi Scott, I have to admit that I don't know what the continuity test is or it's purpose as it relates to the ZZero. Can you fill me in or point me to a discussion please?
Tks much,
Gerry

[scottp55]

Gerald, On both our Desktops we leave the alligator clip clipped to the bare metal to the left of the Z-plate holder(bare metal section near Y proximity switch) we've never put the clip on bit or collet nut EVER. Saves time and one less thing to forget. We have spindles, not sure on routers.
Before we Z-zero we touch the plate to the tip of the bit and make sure we get a green light on input 1. If you get a green light you are good to run Z-Zero routine. Get into the habit of ALWAYS checking- I still forgot until I added green ribbon which is kind of in your face reminder I need:) Hope I explained alright.

[bcondon]

If you are using a router, you need to place the clip on the bit because the router's connection has plastic in the path so you do not have electrical connectivity from the shopbot to the router bit.

The spindle is a complete metal pathway which is conductive so you do not need to put the clip on the router (spindle) bit. You COULD use the clip, but simply not necessary...

[gerryv]

Thanks much guys. Good clarification on the spindle/router question too. I'm running an HSD 4HP spindle. :)

[cowboy1296]

I think perhaps you guys live to close to some power lines if you have developed a 3rd arm.

The z movement is slow enough for me to move from the computer after doing a c-2 command to the plate before it touches

I know that clipping the alligator clip to the bit is proper way but I have been clipping it to the bolt that runs from the sleeve to the router itself for some time and it works fine.

[bill.young]

I've never had to use the ground clip on the two Alpha machines in the shop with HSD spindles, but always have to use it with the Desktop. My guess is that it's because of the ground isolation in the Desktop board.

Your mileage may vary!