Surfacing problems on new BT48-12, help!

[Carlson]

Just received our new ShopBot Buddy PRS48-12 and we can't seem to get the surfacing file to run correctly. We zero out the X, Y, Z and run the spindle warmup routine (C5). After all is well and good using the TU command to bring up the Surfacing Program. Enter the dimensions (X, Y) for the spoilboard, check that all settings are correct, then Make Surfacing File. When we preview the file we change the material to .750" and the Z Zero Position to the Top of the material. Previewing the cut shows that it should work perfectly. But now when we hit CUT PART and run the file it begins to move but overshoots the Y distance by a few inches, stops, then moves up the X until it can't go any further and automatically stops (Driver/Motor Fault Location ?!?). Why would this be happening? We've reset to Default Settings, reinstalled control box firmware and have tried reinstalling the SB3 control software. We have also done an air cut with the Z zeroed higher than it should be and it still runs incorrect. Also ran a surfacing file saying that our spoilboard was very small (18x24") and the same issue occured. Moved the correct Y then overshot a bit, then ran up the X way past the intended distance and came up with the same Driver/Motor Fault Location ?!? error.

[bob_dodd]

It sounds like your unit values are not set right , or during the control software set up the wrong size or type machine was chosen
move the X axis from 0 to 10 inch and measure that distance to see if its 10 inches , if not unit values or something else is out of adjustment

[gc3]

where do you zero x y...on table?

[Carlson]

Figured it out, thanks for the responses everyone. Amateur hour situation, best to get it out early haha. Now to make some real first cuts...

[Bob Eustace]

Was it you hadnt done a C3 Adam???

[Carlson]

Was it you hadnt done a C3 Adam???
Sadly it was even more simple, I had the parameters incorrect for the X value of the spoilboard. Once I zeroed X Y and entered the correct distances an "air cut" went perfect and then began the actual cut. My only issue now is there are tool marks, after the first run I ran it a second time with 5% more overlap to see if this would correct anything but it did not. We leveled the table completely, attached spoilboard (3/4" plywood) and don't know where to go next. I've been creeping on posts for 2 years and now that the Buddy arrived I'm excited to use this wonderful resource, you all are amazing and I feel like I've owned a Buddy for the whole 2 years. I did the leg work and I read all the previous threads on tool marks from surfacing but they don't really seem to apply, I will check in the morning but the robot is brand new and seems to be square (the spindle to the table). The tool marks can catch a fingernail...any thoughts? Other than those mentioned in past, or new twists on an old fix...

[scottp55]

Adam, I know you said"new" but---http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16866&highlight=tramel+axis

[tlempicke]

I also have a BT-48. Do a real world check here. Will the fingernail scratches really impact the work you are doing? It is call a spoilboard, and that means you will be scarfing it up in many ways while you are working.

One hint that took a while to learn in my case. Learn to think in X andY coordinates. That nice control panel you get when you press "K" is great but you will not get a feel for what you are actually doing when you move the head with it. If you do a C3 and then move the head a certain number of units both x and y and then do a Z2 you can return the head to this position within a couple of thousands anytime you need to. Use that to locate your work

One thing this really helped me with was table movement. The Y axis moves just like you think it should. The X axis the table moves in the opposite direction in order to move the head in the correct direction. I can't tell you how many thousands of times I have moved that table in the wrong direction.

[bleeth]

Adam:
Most folks use MDF as a spoilboard. Ply can start to splinter out as you use it and become a pain as well as scratching more delicate material you are cutting. There is lots of info on different spoilboard layers and A Caholic did a good treatise on setting up a buddy. What size bit are you using for surfacing? I use a fairly small one (1 1/4") and some guys spend the bucks for the big ones. The larger the bit the better indicator it is on whether you have your tool trued in or not. You can usually see the path of the bit in the spoilboard but ridges are a sign of an out of square z. You will likely notice that you have more ridges in one direction or the other and which side of the cutting path is high tells you which direction your z is out of alignment. Getting it dialed in right is part of proper tool setup and also teaches you more about the details of your new blue toy!

[Tom Bachman]

I've moved the X axis the wrong direction so many times, it makes my head spin. You'd think that after a while I'd get used to the reverse action of that movement. :D

I need to surface my table and probably will do that this afternoon, beings I don't have anything else worth while going.

[Carlson]

Scott- Thanks, I read that earlier and I was hoping to not have to do that. Examining everything and reading that thread helped me understand a lot.

Tom L.- The body is square with the spoilboard and after tweaking it a bit I have a pretty smooth surface. Although the closer to 0, 0 on the table the worse the ridges are, the opposite corner they are almost non-existent. It's going to be good enough for the main work we need, I'm just a little OCD and wanted everything "perfect" haha. Getting more and more used to the opposite X movement myself, used to it because of my plotter though.

Dave- I'm using the 1 1/4" spoilboard bit supplied with the Starter Kit, again, I believe to have it worked out good now other than the small issue mentioned above. I plan on getting a nice 2x4' piece of MDF for the spoilboard, we just happened to have some nice 3/4" ply around and haven't made the purchase yet.

Tom B.- Working on that habit still. Haha I feel you on that one man, when I'm bored it makes me want to go resurface my spoilboard again, the new toy is awesome.

Dialed in the dust collection a little more today, just need to order a Kent dust skirt set-up and get rid of the stock vinyl hood/skirt. Also put in the drag knife and got that guy pretty dialed in too, that was one reason behind wanting a perfectly surfaced spoilboard too ;) The probe is dialed and is currently probing out a skateboard for use in creating an outline to cut the board out in its "pill" shape perfectly every time. It will also capture the eight holes (2 sets of 4) for the hardware to connect the trucks/wheels to the board. Small steps.

Here's a screenshot (attached) of our Dropcam sneaking a peek of the late night probe.

Thanks for the help everyone, I can guarantee you I will be asking many more questions soon :D