Cooking oils and walnut oil

[genek]

I have done some experimenting with different oils.
All cooking oils goes raunchy in 3 to six months
Walnut oil also go raunchy in 3 months.

The following oils develop bacteria that can cause food poisoning
coconut oil, peanut oil, walnut oil, sunflower seed oil and corn oil.

Mineral oil did not change and actually the wood had less bacteria on the boards after a few days with the mineral oil.

My niece used my test in her biology class in college last week and ran the cultures for me.

[steve_g]

Eugene…
Thanks for sharing your info… I’ve always used Olive oil for bread boards and salad bowls as I was instructed in H.S., does it come under your “cooking” oil category?
SG

[genek]

Eugene…
Thanks for sharing your info… I’ve always used Olive oil for bread boards and salad bowls as I was instructed in H.S., does it come under your “cooking” oil category?
SG


Steve: the olive oil went raunchy but did not develop any Bactria. it was at the 6 months end for going raunchy. odor was not that objectionable.

[genek]

Let me clarify my terminology

when I say raunchy the oil developed a odor, that I could smell that i considered not a good odor and it did not smell like the original oil.

[steve_g]

Eugene…
You got me wondering…
A quick internet search yielded some interesting things about mineral oil and cutting boards. First, the term “mineral oil” is one of those terms that has been around so long it has come to mean different thing in different places. The EU doesn’t use the term. About the only thing you can be sure of is that it’s a petroleum based product and not plant based.
The following are clips from various articles from the web, and we all know that if it’s on the web it has to be true!
SG
In general, edible savory vegetable or olive oils are not recommended because they tend to go rancid, causing the board to smell and your food to pick up the rancid taste.
Unlike some synthetic materials, bamboo is naturally antimicrobial making it resistant to bacteria.
Wood has some advantages over plastic in that it is somewhat self-healing; shallow cuts in the wood will close up on their own. Wood also has natural anti-septic properties.

Hardwoods with tightly grained wood and small pores are best for wooden cutting boards. Good hardness and tight grain help reduce scoring of the cutting surface and absorption of liquid and dirt into the surface. Red oak for example, even though a hardwood, has large pores, so it retains dirt even after washing, making it a poor choice for cutting-board material
Wooden boards should never be placed in the dishwasher, or left immersed for long periods, as the wood or glue may be affected.
A light food-grade mineral oil is a good preservative for wooden cutting boards, as it helps keep water from seeping into the grain.
Because of its properties that prevent water absorption, combined with its lack of flavor and odor, food grade mineral oil is a popular preservative for wooden cutting boards, salad bowls and utensils. Rubbing a small amount of mineral oil into a wooden kitchen item periodically will prevent absorption of food odors and ease cleaning, as well as maintain the integrity of the wood, which is otherwise subjected to repeated wetting and drying in the course of use. The oil fills small surface cracks that may otherwise harbor bacteria

[Billions]

I've tried several finishes on my edition pieces, and I now use a product called Clapham's Beeswax Salad Bowl Finish for finishing many of my final pieces. It's also recommended for butcher's blocks, cutting boards and serving trays. It's a fantastic product, easy to apply with a rag, considered "food safe" with little or no impact on the air you breath while working with it, or your skin if it gets on your hands.

I really like the flat finish, and after a few hours, the stuff just settles into the surface and leaves your wood feeling like wood, not wood coated with oil, varnish, or shellac.

Obviously this is for indoor purposes, and reapplying every year or so really keeps the surface looking like the first day you did it.

Great product. If you go look for it to buy, just beware that the Clapham's Beeswax Polish is a different product although it looks very similar.

http://www.amazon.com/Claphams-Beeswax-870-3008-Finish-8-Ounces/dp/B0012XP7LQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398663767&sr=8-1&keywords=clapham%27s+beeswax

[scottp55]

B., Not hard to make your own "Wood Butter". Carnauba is a harder wax and can be added, but not always needed.
http://www.creative-culinary.com/wood-butter-helps-renew-wood-utensils-and-bowls/

[genek]

One can make the butchers block combination, but why, when all you have to do is soak your product in mineral oil no rubbing or buffing. That just adds time to your product and cost. Not counting the safety issue and mess while making the combination.
I have a mob sink set up. I place my products in the sink close the valve pour the five gallon bucket of mineral oil in let set for several hours, open up the valve and let the oil drain back into the five gallon bucket. When it gets low I add more oil (mostly from gallon jugs of Mineral oil that I buy.

[Billions]

I like that wood butter recipe but I don't know if I'll get around to doing that! Thanks, though - I hadn't thought to try to look for a make-it-yourself solution. I'm saving the link.

[brian]

i have a friend that makes a bee's wax walnut oil product.
I've used it alot and have never noticed a rancid or bad smell.

Brian

[scottp55]

Eugene, the very first stuff I sent you and Tina had a final coat of West Marine teak oil(personal stash now) they no longer make but used coconut oil in it. Stuff is from the late '90's and I use it on the teak in my bathrooms because it smells so nice and because no thinners a pleasure work with in tight spaces. No noticeable odor difference. Wonder why? I do know it goes bad for food use at about the 6 month mark.

[genek]

Eugene, the very first stuff I sent you and Tina had a final coat of West Marine teak oil(personal stash now) they no longer make but used coconut oil in it. Stuff is from the late '90's and I use it on the teak in my bathrooms because it smells so nice and because no thinners a pleasure work with in tight spaces. No noticeable odor difference. Wonder why? I do know it goes bad for food use at about the 6 month mark.
may be the other products that are in it.

[scottp55]

Yeah, they never did list the ingredients or the blend or I would have made my own long ago. Nothing I've made comes close(I wonder if it was ALL coconut oil as doesn't act like any other teak oil I've ever tried(7)).

[genek]

The facts are the facts. Those of you that use UN-approved product on food surface; I hope you have a good lawyer and good insurance.
Nut oil can kill some people. All the cooking oil goes bad.

You can be held liable for people that die from what you put on your wooden items that come in contact with food. If you use a nut oil and do not put a warning on it.. You can be tried for involuntary Manslaughter. I would not use nothing that comes in contact with food that the FDA does not Approve.

As makers of product we are liable for any harm that the product causes.
We can be charged with Manslaughter, if they can prove you knew better then it can be tried as premeditated murder.
be very careful on what you use even some woods should never be used for products that one sales.

[scottp55]

Yup, For food contact mineral oil is safest if selling the item. Maple is only FDA approved wood for cutting boards in commercial kitchens.

[Burkhardt]

I made an experiment today with a thin slab of my mulberry wood pile (used it to test my brand new drum sander). It is about 8"x6"x0.15" and intended to be a small cheese serving board.

After finish sanding I heated it to a barely-touch temperature and dripped molten (melted?) paraffin from a bar generously with a hot air gun. While the wood was hot it soaked up the paraffin like oil. Actually, the hot air stream can be used to "brush" the puddles across the surface. Then I wiped off the excess paraffin with paper towel and after cooling I buffed the board with fine steel wool. Looks good to me but I am wondering if this is a common technique or if there are known drawbacks. It is easy enough to do and the wax is cheap. I am pretty sure it will not go rancid in my lifetime....

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-D2Y5Z8XKI9E/U22KgmR9uTI/AAAAAAAAExA/OL6Rl7b1gAw/w1598-h531-no/DSC02344.JPG

[scottp55]

G. , Did that to 3 ebony spacers 1/4" thick back in '95. Used them as spacers in a teak "cloudlift" design in master bath as I'd never be able to get the teak oil to them and extremely humid environment as well as lots of stray splashes with 9 head shower and whirlpool within a few feet of them. No (Zero) problems with them, but I actually dunked them in the double boiler with the parrafin before I added carnauba and turpentine to make my wax mix(changed to beeswax after first batch). Would use mineral oil now, but my grandfather had only ever used turps. (Got pic, bUt only in e-mail, can't figure it out).

[scottp55]

NOW, after posting HAVE Pic.:confused: