question about dimensioning board thickness

[NickB]

I'm cutting dollhouse doors from exotic woods. The boards start out .8" thick and I slice then in half to .35-.4 inches. The final doors are about .16667 thick (2" in inch scale). The design starts with a .25" board. So I need to make my blanks .25 inches.

My procedure is to smooth the side the band saw slice is on using a .02 depth of cut. When done I flip the board and now I need to make the board .25 inches thick.

So the question is How:confused: what I'd like to do is set the Zero on the Table and then cut until the board is .25 inches thick But I can't figure out how to do that. I realize I can measure the thickness before the final cut and create a new toolpath to cut away the waste down to .25 but that's a lot of work.

Does anyone have a better idea?

[srwtlc]

A planer or surface sander.

If you don't have a planer, set your job up with zero on the table and make two toolpaths, one for each side. In the depth of cut field for the first side, put z- and the amount over 0.25 you want left for the other side (like z-0.3). For the other side, use z-.25 and that will limit the cut to 0.25 off the table surface. I'm assuming that you're using Partworks/VCP or Aspire.

You could save out both toolpaths into one and then edit the file to park away from the part and wait for you to get it flipped and then continue. Or you can do all of one side and then do all of the other side.

[scottp55]

USE SCOTT W's method! I'm going to. Going to post my "old way" anyways.:)
Nick, I'd probably make a whole new file if your door file is referenced to top of material. In new file just reference to bottom of material, and if your thickest split is about .4" that's what I would call material thickness(even #'s are just easier to remember). If spoilboard is absolutely level than you can Z anywhere, but probably a good habit to Z where actual material will be. Define your pocket and if possible make it large enough to let bit go totally past your actual door so when it steps over it won't leave the mark. IF non bandsawed side is clean then I would make first cut on bandsaw side .1" deep AGAINST the grain as in exotics I've personally found anything beyond .05-.06" cuts can can release long strips that clog my vac hose and can thrash around. Next cut, same side, WITH the grain tell it to cut .12". Leaves you at .28" thickness. FLIP board and do a .15" depth cut WITH the grain(removing .03"). No Z'ing in between.
Thanks Scott--much easier!

[scottp55]

Scott, Just wanted to say thanks again for pointing out that Z- method again. Have always gone to top of material, but now making blanks we need close to exact uniform thickness, and I hadn't run across it yet. Much more straightforward approach, and less apt to make mistakes when e-mailing between shops.

[NickB]

Thanks, I like the z- method and will try it today on a pine blank

[srwtlc]

It's a good/handy way of maintaining a specified amount from the base of your material up.