Control Box Communication Problem

[Rob Gunn]

For the past 3 years my bought used PRT96 has worked great. Its around a year 2000 with the original control box and board "PRT 32301-00554". Now as of yesterday nothing works. Everything will work fine in "Preview mode" but when I switch to "Move/Cut" it gives me the error of "Control Box Communication Problem" "No return value. Timer Over-run". Its as if the control box is not even there. The box is turned on and wired up as normal.

Now for the questions...
Did I lose the board?
Is there another test that I can try?
Are replacement boards or boxes still available?
Maybe its time to upgrade to a newer box?

ANY one have a older used box that still works but not needed that we could make a deal on?

[Brady Watson]

Check three places first:

1) Turn on control box & verify that your power supply is in fact putting out both 5 & 12 vdc. You can just put your meter leads on the blue terminal blocks @ Gnd + 5 & 12v respectively. While you are in there, you can also check the stepper power supply (MeanWell SP300 - it's silver) and make sure it is pumping out somewhere between 40-45vdc. If you are not getting 5 or 12, then you need to get a replacement ATX power supply. Carefully study how the wires are setup on the large ATX plug so you can replicate it on the new one...otherwise it will not turn on.

2) Make sure your serial cable isn't broken, strained or otherwise damaged. Replace it with a new or used one and try again.

3) It is possible that your serial port on your computer is on the fritz or dead. Try another computer to see if you can connect. You'll need one with a serial port, which may be hard to find these days. You can also try an IOGear (http://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Serial-Converter-Cable-GUC232A/dp/B000067VB7) brand USB to Serial converter to go in between ANY computer and your serial. Do not use other brands as they either will not work (too slow) or will cause you problems.


-B

[Joe Porter]

I have just replaced my power supply as we are speaking. In doing some research on exactly how to purchase and install an ATX type power supply, there was a lot of discussion on the various forums, etc. about these power supplies going bad over a period of time and causing computer problems. Maybe this is the cause of some of our missing comms reports and other problems...joe

[Brady Watson]

Just to be clear, I was referring to the ATX power supply in the control box; not the one in the computer.

-B

[Mayo]

Rob your control board also has a version number on the board itself - not the paper sticker. My board is 2.07 - although I didn't get the error messages you posted, see my post titled Dead Power Supply.
If your board has the same problem with the transient voltage suppressors (Diodes) it's an easy and cheap fix. Less than $5.00

[Joe Porter]

Yes, it was the ATX power supply in my control box that I replaced. Since yesterday, I have completed the replacement and all is well. Another check for power is the little green light in the lower left corner of your second picture should be on if the power supply is good. By the way, I ordered on from Staples for $49 with free shipping...joe

[Rob Gunn]

First I want to thanks all of you that gave suggestions, this is what I like about this ShopBot forum, everyone is very helpful. Now for the update on my issue.

1.) I opened the control box so I could use my volt meter to check the power supplies a directed.
2.) I switched the control box to the ON position.
3.) I notice that the LED on the lower left of the main board is ON (that's good per what I was told).
4.) I notice that the LED that is on the top of the SP-300 is NOT ON, but I then see that it will blink on and off intermittently. Each time it does light for just a second I can also hear and feel the motors kicking on and off.
5.) As I am reaching for my volt meter to do the test I see a spark and smell smoke. Now I have a black burn area on the main board near the "Y" axis output (see attached photo).
6.) I also now notice that the LED on the SP-300 is ON solid (not intermittently on and off like before).
7.) I go ahead and do the voltage test on the 5 volt, 12 volt and the 44 volt areas and find that all is well.

Now what to do? I have a big black burn on the main board that I assume is now dead forever and cant be fixed. I seem to have good power from my power supplies but don't know if I can trust them. Did the board burn because of a issue with one of the power supplies or did the board just burn? I still don't have any movement from the motors.

Any suggestions from the masters?

[Brady Watson]

Y driver is fried...PS is probably fine. You can look for another chip and solder a new one + a set of diodes (small cylindrical components near driver). In the meantime, unplug the Y motor.

Check each & every connection from the Y connector all the way out to the motor. Make absolutely 150% sure that there are no shorts, frayed wires or broken connections. Get your meter out and check for continuity and wiggle, bend and check again to try to find the short. I would unseat & reseat every connection with a Wago tool just to be sure.

After you are SURE there isn't a short, you can plug the Y motor cable into the A port. Then in SB3, set channel 4 to the Y axis using the VI command. That should get you going again.

Unless you repair the driver, you're living on borrowed time...and should consider upgrading to a 4G board. The upgrade is well worth it.

-B

[ssflyer]

A little hard to tell from the picture (darned old eyes) but it looks like the electrolytic cap went with the driver...

[Brady Watson]

A little hard to tell from the picture (darned old eyes) but it looks like the electrolytic cap went with the driver...

It sure does...Good eye! :cool:

-B