jTr
05-29-2014, 02:38 PM
While I realize the average consumer will scoff at anything veneered, you cannot produce an item like this any other way. Personally, I love the stuff, because of the outrageous beauty of the many exotics that are completely out of reach if it weren't for veneers. It's a privilege to be able to work with such a stunning cut of crotch mahogany, as opportunities don't come along every day.
Picture #1 shows the Sketchup draft, which allowed me to "paint" a picture of the veneer on the model for ease of visualization for the customer. It was simply pulled from the vendor's online photo of what I picked from their inventory.
Once received, it consumed a week to soften, dry and flatten the fragile, wavy pieces of veneer so I could begin working them without breaking - I needed to be as efficient as possible in all other stages...
Naturally, I used the Shopbot to cut every curved piece of solid wood utilized in the construction of this table.(which was almost all of them). Even the triangle pattern for the veneers was generated on the bot.
- If you've ever blocked the circumference of a circular table, you know fitting those blocks can be quite tedious and time consuming. Not so with the 'bot. Miters and curves were essentially perfect - only had to shave ~.030" off the ends when fitting the last two pieces. I left a "dog-ear" on the ends of each segment so I could clamp them end to end where they but- jointed along the perimeter, then pulled snug to table edge, trimming the ears off when complete.
Finishing: Timber-mate mahogany wood filler was used to fill the very porous grain, followed by a boatload of sanding. Used Trans-tint brwn mahogany dye stain to balance solid blocking with the veneers, as the solids were a bit more pink than the veneer. Sealed with T77F63 Sherwin CAB acrylic, then water based "Crystal-lac" wood grain filler. 3 more coats of lacquer with power sanding between each to level finish/fillers and reduce build. (too much catalyzed finish will continue to cross link and crack to pieces over a number of years). After about a week of curing, wet sanded and rubbed out with Liberon "0000" steel wool and Guardsman furniture polish for a silky-smooth feel.
Picture #1 shows the Sketchup draft, which allowed me to "paint" a picture of the veneer on the model for ease of visualization for the customer. It was simply pulled from the vendor's online photo of what I picked from their inventory.
Once received, it consumed a week to soften, dry and flatten the fragile, wavy pieces of veneer so I could begin working them without breaking - I needed to be as efficient as possible in all other stages...
Naturally, I used the Shopbot to cut every curved piece of solid wood utilized in the construction of this table.(which was almost all of them). Even the triangle pattern for the veneers was generated on the bot.
- If you've ever blocked the circumference of a circular table, you know fitting those blocks can be quite tedious and time consuming. Not so with the 'bot. Miters and curves were essentially perfect - only had to shave ~.030" off the ends when fitting the last two pieces. I left a "dog-ear" on the ends of each segment so I could clamp them end to end where they but- jointed along the perimeter, then pulled snug to table edge, trimming the ears off when complete.
Finishing: Timber-mate mahogany wood filler was used to fill the very porous grain, followed by a boatload of sanding. Used Trans-tint brwn mahogany dye stain to balance solid blocking with the veneers, as the solids were a bit more pink than the veneer. Sealed with T77F63 Sherwin CAB acrylic, then water based "Crystal-lac" wood grain filler. 3 more coats of lacquer with power sanding between each to level finish/fillers and reduce build. (too much catalyzed finish will continue to cross link and crack to pieces over a number of years). After about a week of curing, wet sanded and rubbed out with Liberon "0000" steel wool and Guardsman furniture polish for a silky-smooth feel.