Butcher Block Hex Shape Counter/Desk Top

[Burkhardt]

While I am traveling without CNC access, I am kicking around new project ideas. Here is one of them:
I need to replace my kitchen table. The pine top is dinged, scratched and worn out, has been resurfaced a few times and is anyway too small.

Now I have a 3' piece of a Juniper trunk (maybe 6-10" diameter) that I have been using for many years as a column base for sheet metal peening, which is kind of waste because the wood has a beautiful white-red grain.

The idea would be to cut the trunk into 1" thick slices (chain saw or maybe band saw if I can find a helper), plane or sand them to even thickness and cut even hexagons from the slices. Then glue it together as end grain butcher block with half hexagons to make the sides straight. Attach stringers under it with shallow drawers and legs and voila, a new table.

Does that makes sense? Or better to ask, what can go wrong?

[myxpykalix]

I think the only thing you need to figure out is some type of jig you need to make to hold it on your bandsaw. Do you have a picture of it? I wouldn't use a chainsaw, i think you'd waste too much.

If you have an issue with the length and width of the piece in your bandsaw you could make a larger table support table with a miter slot connected to a C clamp type of long clamp that would hold your log at the top and bottom while running it thru the blade using the miter slot as a guide.

I can go to the trouble of drawing something up if this is something you want to do.:D

[Red F]

DON'T PLANE ENDGRAIN IN A PLANER (unless you enjoy explosions). On the CNC is fine.

Also, if you're using endgrain that will contain the pith of the tree, get comfortable with that wood movement, "rustic" look.

By the way, I love all of the stuff that you've contributed to the CNC community.
And I hope you got some Barbecue while driving through the lovely state of NC.

[waynelocke]

If you cut it to less than 1/8" thick you can do want you are wanting. It is called oyster shell veneering. You can Google it. It gets around much of the wood movement problems.

[Burkhardt]

If you cut it to less than 1/8" thick you can do want you are wanting. It is called oyster shell veneering. You can Google it. It gets around much of the wood movement problems.
That sounds like a good idea! I will check it out. It would also make sure that the log will yield enough surface for the table. Being a juniper, the log is quite gnarled and not very circular in cross-section.


DON'T PLANE ENDGRAIN IN A PLANER (unless you enjoy explosions). On the CNC is fine.
.....
And I hope you got some Barbecue while driving through the lovely state of NC.

I did not try end grain but I had a piece of highly figured wood explode in the planer. When I checked, I had wood wedged between the drum and the knives and all 3 blade holders were bent. Miraculously the knives flexed back and were undamaged when I removed them. So I guess I know what you mean.
Unfortunately I missed the BBQ in NC but I had one in Savannah, GA and one somewhere in Kentucky. I hope that is close enough?


I think the only thing you need to figure out is some type of jig you need to make to hold it on your bandsaw. Do you have a picture of it? I wouldn't use a chainsaw, i think you'd waste too much.

If you have an issue with the length and width of the piece in your bandsaw you could make a larger table support table with a miter slot connected to a C clamp type of long clamp that would hold your log at the top and bottom while running it thru the blade using the miter slot as a guide.

I can go to the trouble of drawing something up if this is something you want to do.:D

That piece of log weighs probably 70-80 lbs and building a special table would solve the problem but it would be a serious extra effort. Another thought crossed my mind...maybe I can slice it all around with my 12" compound miter saw if I mount the log on a kind of plywood sled that I can slice off together with the log

[scottp55]

Just thought it might give you some ideas G. (You don't seem to have enough of them) :)http://www.laymar-crafts.co.uk/tip52.htm

[scottp55]

Or, There's always the old fashioned way:)
http://www.motherearthnews.com/diy/the-crosscut-saw.aspx

[scottp55]

Thanks a lot G.! In the wheelchair-Not many of those options are easy. This one is.(I think you just cost me $89):)
http://www.garrettwade.com/japanese-log-saw/p/66M02.01/

[Burkhardt]

Thanks a lot G.! In the wheelchair-Not many of those options are easy. This one is.(I think you just cost me $89):)
http://www.garrettwade.com/japanese-log-saw/p/66M02.01/

Oh, my pleasure. I believe you started the thread about that Rigid oscillating belt sander and you were complicit in posting about the drum sander, too. That cost me a lot and I guess we are even now ;)

In that fabulous woodworking/hardware store in Atlanta that I mentioned in another post, there was a wall sign like that:
http://www.lacybella.com/MM-103.jpg

[scottp55]

I plead "Not Guilty" on the Ridgid! Jack done it!! :) Good investment, but thickness sander would be the ticket instead of surfacing:(
Bring a chainsaw and some hipwaders if you ever visit. Got an abandoned wild apple orchard on the other side of the brook on the back half of my land. I'd love to use my new saw on apple(Never worked it):)
Nice to see the blossoms, and the deer and Canadian Geese love catching a Buzz off the fermenting apples in the fall(If you've never heard a gaggle of drunk geese at sunset--It's a hoot and a half), but would love to have some in the garage drying. I'd even give you all the standing Poplar you could cut(or one sugar maple) Keep you sanding for months.
Warm enough for you?
78F with a gentle seabreeze here.
Life is tough:)

[POPS 64]

It's a good idea I made a bar top similar I cut maple into 2" x 2" and walnut into 2" x 4" s then cut them all up to 1/4" thickness then glued them down with a non-water based flooring adhesive and made grout out of saw dust and flooring poly. and never had a issue glue ing them together instead would look great

[Burkhardt]

I plead "Not Guilty" on the Ridgid! Jack done it!! :) Good investment, but thickness sander would be the ticket instead of surfacing:(
Bring a chainsaw and some hipwaders if you ever visit. Got an abandoned wild apple orchard on the other side of the brook on the back half of my land. I'd love to use my new saw on apple(Never worked it):)
Nice to see the blossoms, and the deer and Canadian Geese love catching a Buzz off the fermenting apples in the fall(If you've never heard a gaggle of drunk geese at sunset--It's a hoot and a half), but would love to have some in the garage drying. I'd even give you all the standing Poplar you could cut(or one sugar maple) Keep you sanding for months.
Warm enough for you?
78F with a gentle seabreeze here.
Life is tough:)

I am still working on our Thanksgiving trip to Boston I would say 80% chance to make it up to Kennebunkport. But I believe the weather won't be that nice then. Also, not sure what TSA would say about a chainsaw in my luggage.

[Burkhardt]

It's a good idea I made a bar top similar I cut maple into 2" x 2" and walnut into 2" x 4" s then cut them all up to 1/4" thickness then glued them down with a non-water based flooring adhesive and made grout out of saw dust and flooring poly. and never had a issue glue ing them together instead would look great

Thanks Jeff, all looks quite promising. In the meantime I am back to using the band saw. After all I don't need to chop up the whole log at once. I could cut of a 1 foot chunk that I can handle with the chain saw, mount it it on a piece of plywood with PU foam and cut it on the band saw into thin slices. Can't wait to go back home. But wait.....this is my vacation trip :eek:

[scottp55]

G. , You going to be able to fit a Cat 1 hurricane in Your trip:)

[scottp55]

G. ,
I just had to write-You can forget chainsaw! I've been listening to dead trees falling for 3 days because of T-storm gusts, but was just between cuts in shop when there was a loud "SNAP" and the usual crashing noises---BUT there was no wind?
Scoped it out and the beavers(during the day?must be the 6" of rain we've gotten) had dropped a 10" diameter Poplar on the far bank of the stream(100').
I don't need a chainsaw, I just need to convince them apple trees taste better... Oh, Yeah---And how to FETCH :)

[Burkhardt]

G. ,
I just had to write-You can forget chainsaw! I've been listening to dead trees falling for 3 days because of T-storm gusts, but was just between cuts in shop when there was a loud "SNAP" and the usual crashing noises---BUT there was no wind?
Scoped it out and the beavers(during the day?must be the 6" of rain we've gotten) had dropped a 10" diameter Poplar on the far bank of the stream(100').
I don't need a chainsaw, I just need to convince them apple trees taste better... Oh, Yeah---And how to FETCH :)

Or trap and skin the beavers? I know that is politically not correct...


Here another question for the community: Assuming I take the oyster shell approach with about 1/8" band sawed and thickness sanded log slices (but all pre-cut on the CNC to precise hexagonal shapes).

I would be concerned that a single 3/4" BB plywood board would still warp with the oyster shell veneer on one side, so I want to glue them onto a 1.5" BB plywood substructure for the table surface, probably with epoxy so that I have ample open time for arranging the veneer plates and vacuum bagging the whole thing. Then possibly continue the veneer pattern around the edges of the table.

Now the question: Should I leave the butcher-blocky (but thin) end grain surface on the top unfinished and just oil it? Or should I just keep going with the epoxy and make a thin pour (might well be that the epoxy from the gluing will bleed through the thin veneer in some places, anyway). FWIW, the juniper is quite hard compared to other softwoods, but this is a our everyday breakfast and dinner table besides a place to prepare food for cooking, i.e. heavily used.

Or any other procedures recommended to put this together?

[scottp55]

When we did a couple of end-grain balsa hulls for some sailboats back in the '70's the mold maker was actually using the squeeze-out and bleed to gauge how uniform our roller pressure was. That was a polyester resin though. Ancient history:)

[srwtlc]

Don't need no stinkin' chainsaw!

[scottp55]

OK, I know I've got 2 cutting teeth but my chips are too big(.75-3.0"), how many coffee beans do I feed them to reduce chip size and increase efficiency?
Should I have them concentrate on the standing oak and maple that died when they built the first dam in '08(probably dry rot but maybe some interesting figure?), OR do I have them go for the apple just beyond the stream, OR the big stuff behind Bambi's mother (Do you hook up deer to haul inline,teams, or troika?). Let's see Google Laplanders or call the Santa Hotline....Hmmm:)
Just trying to increase my wood supply while reducing costs, so it's KIND of Shopbot related......
G. recommend you use YOUR set up, The tolerance these guys consider acceptable is atrocious!

[scottp55]

G. Did you see this one? And can you get ApplePly easier than us?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W2vyo_n1xCI

http://appleply.com/art_of_appleply.php

I've got a project(cantilevered monitor/keypad/mouse) for my box coming up. Using 2 layers 3/4 BBPly glued. Have a Thuja Occidentalis beam 4X8 I could slice up and try(just rectangles) with TB2. Planning on Tung-ing to match box. Not in the immediate future though as I've fallen way behind. Sorry for Hijacking and getting silly on you.
May be politically in correct, but Eugene said the same thing. I personally love having a beaver pond 40' from my back door and get very upset when hunters keep ripping the dams down so they can redirect the deer paths away from the conservation trust land and back onto land they can hunt on.
Beaver dam JUST out of sight on left of dead tree pic. When I hear them I "Plink" the dead trees(Rather distinctive and un-nerving sound as they can't hear the Dianna rifle:) ) and they tend to leave rapidly.:)

[scottp55]

Oh, Andrew had a good idea on this thread that may be worth testing. Sounds a lot like first step of end grain balsa construction, but we used woven roving instead of cloth. Anybody used the modern epoxies to do this? All my knowledge is 35 yrs old and was mainly canoes/kayaks/sailboats(plus 2 months with a chop-gun in a waterfall booth).

[scottp55]

:( Thread.
http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19905&highlight=corbel

[Ger21]

I've actually done something similar to this before. For my unisaw, I made a side extension/ router table with an end grain veneer top. Mine is a ~3" thick torsion box, though. I'm not sure if it would warp or not without doing the bottom on yours, but I think it would be OK.

Here's what I would recommend, based on my previous experience.

First thing I would do is "Seal" the 1/5" thick endgrain with a coat of epoxy. This will enhance the bonding later, and add a little strength and stability. Once cured, you can cut out your hexagons.

Next, use CA glue to make up "tiles", made up of groups of hexagons. I think you really want to do the veneer in one step.

Once you're tiles are ready, tape them up into a big sheet with veneer tape. You want to bond the already sealed side to the substrate.

Put a seal coat of epoxy on the substrate, and let it get tacky. Then mix up a coat of thickened epoxy, for bonding the tiles onto the substrate, and vacuum bag it.

Once cured, I'd fill the pores with epoxy until they won't take any more. This may take 2-3 applications.

When fully filled, machine flat on the CNC, and finish with 2-3 coats of polyurethane.

Don't rush the filling and finishing. It takes time to do it right.

Here's a small blog of the top that I did.
http://lumberjocks.com/Ger21/blog/13246

[Burkhardt]

Great, thanks a lot guys! That all looks like promising approach.

Sealing the log slice/veneer before cutting to shape should also solve the vacuum leak problem through the end grain that I would expect even on a shaped pod.

I am back home and will get going with that the next couple of days.

[Burkhardt]

I just could not leave it alone and lopped a big chunk off that log with the Sawzall and "glued" it to a scrap board with insulation foam.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-pcki78ulX1I/U7oRmWneIFI/AAAAAAAAE5A/5wiICxLZbjs/w881-h853-no/DSC02565.JPG

Then I started re-sawing the veneer slices. 11.5" tall it just barely fit my dinky band saw but it worked.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-BgqzEfkvT5k/U7oRorwn0YI/AAAAAAAAE5I/sQXw3XBs238/w704-h853-no/DSC02566.JPG

At full thickness even the coarse re-saw blade deflected about 1/16". Therefore I had to make the slices almost 1/2" thick for the uneven surface. After that I drum sanded them to about 5/8" thickness. This is the yield of 2 hours band saw and drum sander work. Not sure yet if it is sufficient for the table. But I still have a lot more of that log.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-KaDJrPUKMqU/U7oRrAhMIwI/AAAAAAAAE5Q/CX7QBGRgXDA/w1137-h853-no/DSC02568.JPG

The slices are even more oddly shaped then I expected. Got to think about how to put a contiguous surface together.
The smell of the juniper was almost worth the work.

[srwtlc]

Looks like hazardous waste, you better send it to me to safely dispose of it for you! ASAP! ;)

Be a shame to trim any of that away to make fit, I'd flip flop and arrange for best fit and fill voids with pieces or something else (like a grout line) and flood epoxy it.

Beautiful stuff.

[Burkhardt]

Looks like hazardous waste, you better send it to me to safely dispose of it for you! ASAP! ;)

Be a shame to trim any of that away to make fit, I'd flip flop and arrange for best fit and fill voids with pieces or something else (like a grout line) and flood epoxy it.

Beautiful stuff.


Oh my, really dangerous? I would burn it in the fireplace but it is ample warm already in SoCal. Shipping to WI you is too expensive so I may use the pieces after all.

What you said about trimming went through my mind as well. It would not be a CNC project anymore if I keep the slices whole but I hope the forum admin does not mind. And I would have to take off the soft bark on the spindle sander but that is probably not so bad if I use the dust mask.

I could fill in large gaps with custom shaped wood pieces and small gaps with

- epoxy/brass powder?
- epoxy/abalone grit?
- just epoxy with some pigment?
- not sure what else

This turns out to be an interesting, open-ended project.

[myxpykalix]

Those slices look almost juicy enough to throw on the grill:eek::D:rolleyes:

The biggest thing i've always worried about using pieces like this is the splitting that may occur from the pith?

[scottp55]

It would be difficult to beat the "Rorschach Test" Nature gave you. Not sure I'd even use spindle sander as the contour of the edges often has interesting details,is the bark tight?. Not a factor if you'll be dyeing or filling epoxy(what did the sawdust look like(filler?).
Maybe try to keep slices in order so you can follow the progression of the change in heartwood shapes.
Hope you were good at Jigsaw puzzles as a kid?
Your Intention was CNC before it morphed on you:) So I think it should stay on forum. 1 vote from a newbie!
Oh, I'd definitely keep them pressed until you're ready to use them. Are you totally SURE you'd rather do this than stain your deck?:)

One of the 4901 series maybe for bark?
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/120/2677/=sqdj9g

[Burkhardt]

I like my deck with that silver gray patina. I used to treat it with redwood deck oil it for the first 10 years but the foot traffic just makes the dirt mix with the finish and leave it black while the other areas look painted. I have given up on sealing it and let it age in style. Saves a lot of work, too :rolleyes:

The bark of the juniper is very soft and kind of spongy. I took it off today. Easy enough with the oscillating spindle but took some time anyway.

I did a puzzle experiment, see below. The real table would actually be a few inches smaller. With that method I have enough slices. I begin to like it but I am wondering if that comes out a bit extravagant for a humble kitchen table.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-O34yEvGr-Vk/U7tyx_jOrJI/AAAAAAAAE5w/q2MtMnr0VUM/w1597-h829-no/DSC02571.JPG

[myxpykalix]

I begin to like it but I am wondering if that comes out a bit extravagant for a humble kitchen table.

As long as YOU like it, it doesn't matter...

[scottp55]

Definitely one of those projects that you'll look at every single day, and either be glad you took all the extra effort, OR wish you had:)
After looking at that pic, I'm not quite as against taking some of the sapwood off to get a tighter pattern, but DO love the contrast.
Which way are you leaning on the infill? Bandsawed Manzanita branches?
http://www.manzanita.com/perches.htm

[bleeth]

It is very cool looking but I wonder if over the long haul it might be too busy.

[chiloquinruss]

WOW!

I love it!

That is going to be one major topic of conversation in your house for sure! I like everything about it. Our island is a regular old butcher block island which I love, but your project is just amazing, please see it all the way through to completion. Russ

[POPS 64]

take the sawdust from that wood mix with floor poly and mix to a grout texture and float in same way. scrape flat with rubber float just like tile let sit until grout is good and hard sand then pour glas top over top . will look great . jeff:D

[Burkhardt]

Thank Y'all for the ideas!

I left the puzzle in the kitchen last night to have another look in the morning. But I had to move it back to the shop when I woke up at 2 am because the principally pleasant but very pungent smell of the juniper made the whole house like the inside of a gin still. I hope that will go away after sealing.

It does look busy but I would like to try it anyway, just because it is a challenge. I have the privilege of doing it for my own fun and if it turns out to be a failure it is not going to ruin my cash flow.

I would really like to fill in the gaps with a fitted inlay but that would probably mean a VERY long project. I do like Scott's idea of thin slices of similar patterned branches or just a wood filled grout. I do have a few pounds of abalone mother of pearl but thinking about it that would look tacky as a fill in. Reminds me of Elvis' gold plated pearlescent Cadillac that I saw last week in Nashville.

[khaos]

I have some cherry that i want to play with now. Thanks alot... ;)

[scottp55]

He do be good at costing people Time,Money, and Sleep with his projects and ideas. (Aintcha G. ?) :)

[Burkhardt]

He do be good at costing people Time,Money, and Sleep with his projects and ideas. (Aintcha G. ?) :)
Sure. But wait until I retire and don't have to waste that much time in the office :D

[srwtlc]

Here's another idea (http://www.woodworkingnetwork.com/woodworking-project-photos/woodworker-project-plans/Live-Edge-Walnut-Table--266773831.html?utm_source=6123B4744701E9Z&utm_medium=eNL&utm_campaign=Woodworking+Network+Daily_20140712&utm_term=&utm_content=Edit) for ya. ;)

[Burkhardt]

Here's another idea (http://www.woodworkingnetwork.com/woodworking-project-photos/woodworker-project-plans/Live-Edge-Walnut-Table--266773831.html?utm_source=6123B4744701E9Z&utm_medium=eNL&utm_campaign=Woodworking+Network+Daily_20140712&utm_term=&utm_content=Edit) for ya. ;)

That is pretty cool (and artsy). But my piece of log would be too small for that.

In the meantime i glued the veneer slices onto a double layer 3/4" board. I ended up using PU construction adhesive. That was tacky enough to overcome the slight warp of the slices. I tried first with Titebond (did not fill the gaps) and contact adhesive (was strong enough to hold them down but a mess to apply). As a second step I sealed the surface and base board with clear epoxy and will fill all the voids and gaps with black epoxy tomorrow.

[scottp55]

Yea, That was VERY nice Scott. I wonder if a Diamond Drag would etch the glass enough to get clean break lines?
G., Please take pictures before you pour-interested in before/after.:)

[Burkhardt]

Some progress pictures....

Vacuum pressing the 2 layers of 3/4" plywood. I used my dust collector which has a lot of volume but rather wimpy vacuum. A shopvac or home vacuum would probably have been better but it worked anyway. The reed fencing under the plastic sheet prevents the vacuum from sealing itself off.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-rMYastZeEQA/U8SxhmusYhI/AAAAAAAAE6E/2KN_QzqVdt0/w1137-h853-no/DSC02574.JPG

The veneer is glued down, sealed with clear epoxy, surface sanded flush and the table edges trimmed off:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4ctx_-bJ5Lw/U8SxjQTYLII/AAAAAAAAE6M/3-cV8Vgjh6s/w1598-h779-no/DSC02580.JPG

Most of the inner cavities are filled in with wood dust loaded epoxy. I had planned to use black pigment but would have to order it and thought a pigment along the color of the wood is anyway better:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-k8UCzfKmRfA/U8Sxk_vkGAI/AAAAAAAAE6U/cN7igaQFIyw/w1597-h772-no/DSC02582.JPG

Next step will be sanding everything flush again, attaching 3/4" maple band around the edges, and filling in the remaining voids.

This will be a CNC project after all. I am planning to do the legs on the indexer and do the sub-frame and drawers on the CNC, too. Of course with finger joints....

[scottp55]

G.,What epoxy used? Good penetration of end-grain? I like your jigsaw puzzle skills:)

[Burkhardt]

G.,What epoxy used? Good penetration of end-grain? I like your jigsaw puzzle skills:)

Kleer Koat Table Top Epoxy (http://www.uscomposites.com/epoxy.html#kleerkote) from US Composites.

It costs about half of what the Rustoleum table top epoxy at Home Depot is, but I order it only for larger projects, due to the shipping cost.
I seems to penetrate very deep into the end grain. It kind of sucks it up.
When sanding flat, I removed probably 40/1000 of the wood in some places and it was still impregnated.

[Burkhardt]

I am making some progress with the epoxy but after all I would not recommend using such large end grain veneer slices. After the first epoxy pour to fill in the gaps there were serious cracks all over the place. I had thought the slices were thin enough (only 2/10" eventually) to just stick to the carrier board and this was a well seasoned log with 12 years sitting in my garage. But apparently the wood still likes to move and the fact that I left the epoxied table sitting in the sun for a couple of hours by mistake surely did not help.

The cracks are not a big problem now since I can fill them with more epoxy. But I am a bit worried they may come back in a week or a month when the whole thing is finished. Oh well, all part of the character.

[Joe Porter]

This will give it that "Hand Made" look we are all after...Right??...joe

[Burkhardt]

This will give it that "Hand Made" look we are all after...Right??...joe

Yes, sure :rolleyes:

I finished the filling, sanding and put a first finish coat on the surface. I do have an HVLP spray gun but have never used it don't want to take the risk making a mess. Supposedly it needs some experience to get it right and I rather took a brush. I admit it does look somewhat busy but the customer (i.e myself) is not going to complain.

I need to let that wait for the next two weeks while traveling again. After that I will make legs, frame and drawers.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-CZfOC2Xrc30/U8nhLA2_VjI/AAAAAAAAE6k/9f-OR6r20UE/w1598-h788-no/DSC02583.JPG

[myxpykalix]

so far so good!:D

[scottp55]

The Customer is always right:) Jack was right, does look tempting to grab one and throw on the grill!
You mean you're Finally going to use the CNC?:)
Nice!

[ssflyer]

Mmmmmm, Porterhouse steaks! :D
Turned out great!

[Burkhardt]

11" diameter steaks. They don't make cattle like that anymore.

As mentioned the table top is stored away for more finish layers after my trip but I have been designing away with the rest of the table, should look later similar to that plus 4 shallow drawers in the frame. But I am still on the fence with the legs. I like the spiral but will probably tweak a bit. Or does that look weird?

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-zPSMQ9CqcsU/U8s6GzFmSpI/AAAAAAAAE60/RGF9V_PEwj0/w741-h444-no/ICRender.jpg

[scottp55]

Hey G., It's YOUR table!
I don't think we've seen pics of your indexer set up.
On the legs--How are indexers and tearout on the sharp edge? Would choice of wood be important or is the bit more important?
One of the first wood tables I've seen in a while, where color coordination of placemats might be important. :)

[Burkhardt]

...........On the legs--How are indexers and tearout on the sharp edge? Would choice of wood be important or is the bit more important?..........

I am not leaving a sharp edge. That would get dinged all the time with chairs and look ugly. That spiral edge will be generously radiused.

The "edge band" of the table top is maple, as is the kitchen cabinets. That means the rest of the table will be maple, too.

I don't see tear-out as more of an issue with the indexer than normal. See pic below of a ball screw made from a 1.5" birch dowel rod. That is as it comes off the machine with a 1/2" corebox bit, no sanding.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-MyfUSBs6Nfg/UFaXOAVOEnI/AAAAAAAADks/Bvmq9lqFVNw/w1024-h452-no/DSC01148.JPG



...........I don't think we've seen pics of your indexer set up...........

Nothing really special. It is a 50:1 harmonic drive gear knock-off from China that comes with a small (but sufficient) stepper. I only put it on a clamping base, removed the 3-jaw metalworking chuck and mounted a 4-jaw Oneway Talon chuck. But nowadays you get get them from that company with 4-jaw chuck, too (about $400 gears, stepper and chuck).

I also built a tailstock with vertical and horizontal fine adjustment. That is necessary because for jobs like the screw above the rotation axis must be parallel to "x" better than a few 1/1000".
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-fsPHs3d7Loo/U8viFvw4usI/AAAAAAAAE7E/l6CYjRKEiUg/w1282-h853-no/DSC01138-001.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-9TxJLB9cwXs/UTwR_TFfJLI/AAAAAAAADy0/dvXAn0DEtvc/w871-h853-no/DSC01355.JPG

[scottp55]

Birch came out nice! Thanks for pics.

[myxpykalix]

You know you're getting old when, before, exciting pictures would give you wood.....now, pictures of wood get you excited....:rolleyes::(

[Burkhardt]

Some progress. I got the lumber (hard maple) for the legs and frame/skirt and cut the first leg on the indexer. I did not get the required 3.5"x3.5" lumber and had to glue the legs from two 1-3/4" boards.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Nns6QVPbk4o/U-gNr9OHDAI/AAAAAAAAE-Y/iD5OXmaQ1oI/w300-h853-no/DSC02624.JPG

I used a 1/2" ball end with 0.015" steps for finishing. It took over 2 hours to machine at 200 ipm but it came out nice and super smooth. But for the other legs I will use a finer resolution .stl file. While barely to feel the facets are quite visible.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-a-gfAOe4518/U-gNulMQPbI/AAAAAAAAE-g/U1vTYkDnHxk/w718-h853-no/DSC02625.JPG

[scottp55]

Actually, that triangular pattern might look pretty Nice oiled!:)

[POPS 64]

Very nice work , they look great looking forward to seeing finish on them.

[Ger21]

But for the other legs I will use a finer resolution .stl file. While barely to feel the facets are quite visible.

I would think that you could sand out those facets very quickly.

[Burkhardt]

I would think that you could sand out those facets very quickly.

I guess so. The facets can not be more than a few 1/1000" tall. I will take a 220 disc on the random orbital sander and take it out. I have anyway a minor imperfection to remove because the tailstock cone was not seated properly. I need to get a countersink that matches the cone's angle.

But I am surprised that the machine can even follow these tiny surface undulations at high speed. I cut a second one yesterday with doubled facet resolution and 300 ipm/ 5 ips and I can still see the facets. While the path overlap is small at 0.015" (3% of 1/2" bit) the leg is cut without roughing, only a start slot. That means a cutting depth of 2.5" (full flute length at once) at the slim end of the leg.

[Ger21]

I'd prefer to hand sand something like that. Using a ROS, it's too easy to remove too much material.

[scottp55]

G. , Like Gerry said- 220-320G thin sanding sponge would make short work of it.
Love these.
http://www.amazon.com/3M-Contour-4-5-Inch-5-5-Inch-1875-Inch/dp/B00004Z49L/ref=sr_1_4/176-8029258-0929628?ie=UTF8&qid=1407878096&sr=8-4&keywords=3M+Sanding+Sponge

[Burkhardt]

Thanks for the warning guys...good point. I will start with hand sanding and see how far that gets me.

These sanding sponges are quite expensive. I never used one from 3M, how long do they last?

[Burkhardt]

Short video clip.... (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MBjLd3vLDLw)

[scottp55]

G. If dry sanding, probably 3 hours continuous use, but that's not "normal" usually sit's next to a 220G Norton sponge and get a couple weeks out of it almost all radius stuff. When wet sanding, about an hour depending on solvent, Norton holds up better.
Longest lasting by far is Abralon (try the assortment pack if you've never used it before--almost the only thing we use now because the dust extraction is soo much better) wrapped around a suitable sponge and use any grit. Ace hardware carries the Norton and 3M though.

[Burkhardt]

Really strange experience with Epifanes Rapidclear...

I used that successfully on other furniture. It brushes on thick, dries quickly, has a distinct smell and leaves a rather hard surface with semi-gloss sheen and neutral color (even blueish in the cup).

Now I wanted to use it for this table top and ordered another can on Amazon but this stuff is glossy with light amber tint, dries longer, smells different and has a rubbery feel like spar varnish. I guess they sent me an incorrectly labeled can. I will leave it on for now and see if it does the job for the table. Sigh.

[Ger21]

Is the new can RapidCOAT, and not rapidCLEAR?

[Burkhardt]

The label is "RapidClear". But even the RapidCoat variety is supposed to be similar semi-gloss, just a little more amber tinted.

I may have received the usual Epifanes clear gloss finish in the wrong container. Or maybe something from a screwed-up production batch. Or maybe even a counterfeit product. Anyway, sanding it off would be a major pain in the behind and I will try if it is good enough. It definitely does look good in gloss but the soft surface is not what I wanted for a kitchen table.

[Burkhardt]

Almost a table....now only danish and laquer finish for the base, make 2 drawers (with fancy box joints, of course) and mount to the top. Like always, turned out to be a bigger project than anticipated. I could only machine one leg per day to keep the goodwill of the neighbors.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ap2kY3nPku0/U_ABF_xui3I/AAAAAAAAE-4/Q0jN1qK5tE0/w1137-h853-no/DSC02630.JPG

[myxpykalix]

Looks excellent G. Good job!

[Burkhardt]

I made the drawers and put the finish on the base and installed the top. Very different from the plain pine top table that we had for the last 30 years and needs some getting used to. But at least it is bigger what we wanted and has generous drawers for cutlery and other small stuff.

The two drawers are separated in the middle and go across the entire table. They can be pulled out from either side. I did not find suitable drawer slides to allow for that and let the drawers directly run between 2 sets (top and bottom) of skateboard ball bearings. Nice thing is they are completely invisible unless you look from below. The rubber stops in the middle prevent the drawers from being pulled out more than half.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-lkv7RufldUc/U_Vt74LtQrI/AAAAAAAAE_o/2F4Ue7aRBCw/w967-h853-no/DSC02631.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-BVcLvH_jSMg/U_Vt-Mjhl1I/AAAAAAAAE_w/cC0CiUEO-2o/w1155-h853-no/DSC02632.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-UGsqofHt-ZA/U_Vt_e05eWI/AAAAAAAAE_4/83pOeVswUmM/w1382-h853-no/DSC02638.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-u5us4ztaECI/U_VuCh2Q_zI/AAAAAAAAFAA/0bxnklTN3i0/w1137-h853-no/DSC02639.JPG

[scottp55]

Congrats G. , One unique table, Done and finished well! :)

[Joe Porter]

A true genius!....joe (not me, you)

[khalid]

Thats marvelous.. i really like your engineering skills :)

[POPS 64]

Beautiful table , great imagination and craftsmanship . Jeff

[bleeth]

It makes my mouth water for a Texas Porterhouse!
Nice job Gert.

[Tim Lucas]

That is an awesome table! :D

[srwtlc]

Nice work G! Should have put some sear marks on those steaks. ;)

[Burkhardt]

Thanks guys.....a little praise warms the heart :D

I suppose the sear marks will come over time. At least on the table we replaced there were many sear marks of hot pots we placed on there by mistake.