Painting sign foam

[phil_o]

I have my first sign job working with sign foam. I'm comfortable with machining the material. All of the work is V-Carved text. I'm looking for information on the most suitable primer and final coat paint for an outdoor sign.

Thanks in advance,

Phil

[t28c34]

I had the same questions at one time. Then I read Mike Bloomquist book on 3dimentional sign foam signs. I ended up taking his class earlier this spring. (See post Hayward School of Dimentional sign making). We used Sign Prime to prie out signs. But with the new sign foam 4, Mike dosnt think any primer will be needed. I have used Jay Cooke's primer, its ok but its REAL thick and needs to be thined. I hear that you can use Zinsser B-I-N. You just need to fill the pours in the foam.
As far as paint. I was taught alot of techniques at the hayward school using outdoor latex pain with nothing else.
Its alot of money, but its well worth it for the Hayward sign school

[phil_o]

Thanks, Terry. In searching for information I came across the Hayward School site http://www.signfoam.com/hayward-school.html.
The sign foam I purchased is Sign foam 4.
I'd appreciate hearing from anyone with experience painting this new product.

Phil

[MichaelB]

Hello Phil and Terry,

Painting Sign Foam just got a lot easier with the introduction of Sign Foam4. To achieve a smooth finish in Sign Foam3, the cell structure of the foam had to be filled with a high build primer. The Sign Foam4 cell structure is so tight that we have been skipping the primer and going directly to our two finish coats of paint. Most of the work we do here at the school are rustic signs so, we use a lot of solid color stains and exterior house paints. Sign Foam can be painted with virtually any paint available. Because of its unicellular structure, paint mechanically bonds extremely well to the surface. Sign Foam is also chemically inert so solvents will not attack the material allowing us to use automotive and chemically catalyzed paint systems.

The long and the short of it is: don't be afraid to try any paint you want to use. They will all adhere well to the Sign Foam surface.

Good Luck,

Mike

[joe]

Phil,

It's a good question and one which most newbees end up asking. Here are a few hints.

Sign finishing is a skill within itself. Many people spend more time with this step than it takes to rout the piece. First off I almost never try to end up with a perfectly smooth finish. Not only does it require lots of fussy steps but it's seldom the best choice. One answer is a beautiful semi smooth texture. Through out history most artists prefer some kind of tooth for their surfaces. This allows for lots of blending techniques.

I've posted a couple of examples for your consideration. Many of my surfaces come by applying Precision Boards Crack Filler and sanding it almost smooth. This techniques is nothing more than a stabbing motion with a 2" disposable hog hair brush. This leaves a rough unattractive surface but when sanded it become a luxurious paint base. There are dozens of other simular techniques but the point is, you don't need to worry about having a perfectly smooth surface. I've found it to be a waste of time.

The border on the "Family Chiropractic" sign has this type of texture and when finished with a gloss finish it gives a superior surface.

I must agree that Sign Foam 4 is a much improved product. Still it's second quality of Duna. Corofoam remains the Cadillac of the HDU's.

One of the best paints on the market today is "Novacolor". This is the only water based paint I've found that will work well in a brush or spray. It's so smooth and dense ever the reds and yellow will cover like a dream. Not only that it's not expensive! You'll need to order their color chart. Pay close attention when ordering. About half their paints are translucent and you'll need to pay close attention with that. These are all flat. You may need to purchase their gloss medium. Check out their Gold and Silver.

[joe]

A couple more examples.

[phil_o]

Thanks for your input. I'll post a pic when it's all done.

Phil