Questor
09-26-2014, 06:30 PM
Howdy folks, got a new version of the spoil board for the desktop here.
This one is kind of a hybrid between Bill Young’s oversized, and the version Scott Plaisted modified with the extra holes for ¼” inserts. The big difference is that this one is made from 4 parts, and is really 1 image and it’s mirror, each made 2 times to cover the full area.
I was going to make Scott’s board, but I really didn’t have a good way to hold the board in place while cutting, as my spoil board was slightly smaller than standard. I tried modifying the index locations, but couldn’t get it to work with existing hole locations. I did make a version that would work with a repeating area, to cut the same file over and over, but was not fond of it. I may try my hand again at the full size one, as Scott said, it is much easier to cut one once you have one in place.
Using 4 quarters to make the board has a few advantages. First, each can easily be cut on the starter spoil board. I used a 14” x 17” block to cut from for each. Second, as many use the 0,0 quadrant much more heavily than the others, you can make just that for replacement, and resurface the others several times before swapping them out. Third, each quarter has 70 holes for the ¼” inserts. If you have to replace the entire board (near 350 on Scott’s) each time, the slightly less 70 at a shot is easier to do quickly. Fourth, in a future version, I will extend the expanded areas more, to nearly completely cover the rails to help keep shaving off of them (only need about 3/8” on the one side, and 1.5” on the other or so).
It expands 3” outside of the cut area, all the way around. This area has been recessed 1/8”, as this will allow multiple resurfacing of the main cut area. It also has 2 rows of 3/8” dowel holes and ¼” inserts for any hold down needs.
The 3/8” dowel holes are on a 1.5” center, as are the 0.32” holes for the ¼” inserts. This same pattern extends out into the extra area, so that all wedges and fences can be used in either location. Also, they will extend off of the cutting area for any tiling/indexing that needed to be done. This is also the same pattern from the starter spoil board / jig files that come with the desktop.
Another thing I included were locating holes ¼” in diameter at the 4 corners, and 1” from the end of each quarter, along the perimeter of the cutting area. I used the 1/8” straight bit from the starter set to help align the quarters with the spindle. Once the first quarter is in place, using the fences and wedges to hold the next area in place is very hand, and pretty much sets everything in place nicely.
I did move the location for the bed hold downs, to more match my own table, and be able to mirror correctly.
On another layer in the file, I have the layout of the aluminum bed, to help with alignment considerations. Easy enough to shift this around to help match the location of your 0,0 point. Also have the original spoil board for comparison.
If you make these boards, I recommend that you cut the wedges and fences before putting the 4 quarters together. This way, you will have use of them to help hold things in place, once you have the first quarter bolted down. (on a side note, i used a vcarve around the perimeter of the fences and wedges, to help with removal, may as well make them right the first time)
Materials that were used:
Regular ¼” inserts (require 0.32” holes) - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002KSZ13G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (i used these in the center of the area, but will use them everywhere in future boards)
Flanged ¼” inserts (require 0.32” holes) - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002KT43MU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (i only used these outside of the area that would rest on the aluminum bed, so that things would stay level, didn't like the raised areas, so didn't use them)
Tool for installing inserts (highly recommend) - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002WC8TWU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
As I used extra bed hold downs, you will need at least 12 more than came with the desktop. I got them from the 80/20 store on ebay. http://stores.ebay.com/8020-Inc-Garage-Sale?_trksid=p2047675.l2563 Part number 3286 for the slide in T-nuts, and Part Number 3066 for the flanged button head cap screws, ¾” long (uses 4mm hex, same as initial bolts). (the tops of these bolts are a little taller than those that came with the desktop, but will work just fine, and our hold downs are a little deeper to start with. You can always modify the file to use fewer too.
Anyone who wants a copy of these files, just contact me through my profile and I’ll send them your way.
Steve G.
This one is kind of a hybrid between Bill Young’s oversized, and the version Scott Plaisted modified with the extra holes for ¼” inserts. The big difference is that this one is made from 4 parts, and is really 1 image and it’s mirror, each made 2 times to cover the full area.
I was going to make Scott’s board, but I really didn’t have a good way to hold the board in place while cutting, as my spoil board was slightly smaller than standard. I tried modifying the index locations, but couldn’t get it to work with existing hole locations. I did make a version that would work with a repeating area, to cut the same file over and over, but was not fond of it. I may try my hand again at the full size one, as Scott said, it is much easier to cut one once you have one in place.
Using 4 quarters to make the board has a few advantages. First, each can easily be cut on the starter spoil board. I used a 14” x 17” block to cut from for each. Second, as many use the 0,0 quadrant much more heavily than the others, you can make just that for replacement, and resurface the others several times before swapping them out. Third, each quarter has 70 holes for the ¼” inserts. If you have to replace the entire board (near 350 on Scott’s) each time, the slightly less 70 at a shot is easier to do quickly. Fourth, in a future version, I will extend the expanded areas more, to nearly completely cover the rails to help keep shaving off of them (only need about 3/8” on the one side, and 1.5” on the other or so).
It expands 3” outside of the cut area, all the way around. This area has been recessed 1/8”, as this will allow multiple resurfacing of the main cut area. It also has 2 rows of 3/8” dowel holes and ¼” inserts for any hold down needs.
The 3/8” dowel holes are on a 1.5” center, as are the 0.32” holes for the ¼” inserts. This same pattern extends out into the extra area, so that all wedges and fences can be used in either location. Also, they will extend off of the cutting area for any tiling/indexing that needed to be done. This is also the same pattern from the starter spoil board / jig files that come with the desktop.
Another thing I included were locating holes ¼” in diameter at the 4 corners, and 1” from the end of each quarter, along the perimeter of the cutting area. I used the 1/8” straight bit from the starter set to help align the quarters with the spindle. Once the first quarter is in place, using the fences and wedges to hold the next area in place is very hand, and pretty much sets everything in place nicely.
I did move the location for the bed hold downs, to more match my own table, and be able to mirror correctly.
On another layer in the file, I have the layout of the aluminum bed, to help with alignment considerations. Easy enough to shift this around to help match the location of your 0,0 point. Also have the original spoil board for comparison.
If you make these boards, I recommend that you cut the wedges and fences before putting the 4 quarters together. This way, you will have use of them to help hold things in place, once you have the first quarter bolted down. (on a side note, i used a vcarve around the perimeter of the fences and wedges, to help with removal, may as well make them right the first time)
Materials that were used:
Regular ¼” inserts (require 0.32” holes) - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002KSZ13G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (i used these in the center of the area, but will use them everywhere in future boards)
Flanged ¼” inserts (require 0.32” holes) - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002KT43MU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (i only used these outside of the area that would rest on the aluminum bed, so that things would stay level, didn't like the raised areas, so didn't use them)
Tool for installing inserts (highly recommend) - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002WC8TWU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
As I used extra bed hold downs, you will need at least 12 more than came with the desktop. I got them from the 80/20 store on ebay. http://stores.ebay.com/8020-Inc-Garage-Sale?_trksid=p2047675.l2563 Part number 3286 for the slide in T-nuts, and Part Number 3066 for the flanged button head cap screws, ¾” long (uses 4mm hex, same as initial bolts). (the tops of these bolts are a little taller than those that came with the desktop, but will work just fine, and our hold downs are a little deeper to start with. You can always modify the file to use fewer too.
Anyone who wants a copy of these files, just contact me through my profile and I’ll send them your way.
Steve G.