tlempicke
10-30-2014, 06:43 PM
After seeing Andrew Coholics table I decided that I needed one. I made a couple of changes and thought I would write them up in case anyone is interested.
Rather than the 5/16 T slot I wanted 1/4 inch material. The tracks come out to be exactly one inch apart, which makes a lot of things easier. I bought it from the 80/20 surplus store on Ebay. Supposedly it is cheaper than you can buy otherwise, and it is, by about 10 cents per piece. What really was a good deal though was the shipping. It was only $70 for two day UPS. Here is what I ordered. 8020 T Slot Aluminum Extrusion 10 S 1030 x 60 N.
Each piece was 60 inches long and cost $34.95. So the entire table, 20 pieces, 3 inches wide, was $850 delivered.
For the rail and bearings I found, again on E bay, an outfit with the name econvenience1986.
I am including their name because the two rails and bearings cost $270 shipped to me. It arrived in about four days and was shipped via Fed Ex for that price. What I ordered was 2X TBR16-2000mm 16MM SUPPORTED LINEAR RAIL+ 4 TBR16UU Router Bearing
The quality that I got was first rate.
The 1 1/2 by 2 inch angle came from Online Metals. http://www.onlinemetals.com
I sourced the hardware from McMaster Carr. Expensive(relatively) but fast and they do have the stuff. I went with all grade eight cap screws and elastic stop nuts. BTW do not buy T slot hardware from McMaster. I is a LOT cheaper on Ebay.
First step was to make up a drill jig so that I could use the drill press to drill the holes. Made out of scrap aluminum it is a three position deal. Drill the two holes in the center to fasten to the PowerStick, slide left and drill two holes, slide right and drill two holes. The only holes left to hand drill are the ones in the 1/4 thick angle that supports the rail.
I first mounted one piece of the Tslot to the PowerStick track. I then used a dial indicator to make sure that it was dead on parallel to the Y axis. See the picture. After that I re-mounted the indicator and used it to true the piece for flatness and tighten down the pieces that hold the bearings to the sides of the Buddy. Predictably the Tslot was drooping about 70 thousandths from the weight of the rails and of its own weight. I made up a jack out of a piece of scrap aluminum and a bolt to jack each side up so I could fasten down the bearings. After about 20 minutes of fiddling I got the slot within .002 from end to end.
To fasten the rest of the tracks I would move the X axis so that the Tslot being put on was just about over the bearing on that side. This way the bearing is truing the angle for me so that the Tslot is not exerting any force on the assembly.
I fastened down a piece of 3/4 inch ply as a spoil board. The first pass was at zero depth and it shaved a couple of areas of the board where it was a bit thick. The second pass was at a depth of .015 and I was rewarded by having the cutter make a complete cut with no voids at all.
First project was a plastic sign that was engraved .020 deep. Perfection!
This is a worthwhile project that will really extend the capabilities of your Buddy! Thanks Andrew!
Rather than the 5/16 T slot I wanted 1/4 inch material. The tracks come out to be exactly one inch apart, which makes a lot of things easier. I bought it from the 80/20 surplus store on Ebay. Supposedly it is cheaper than you can buy otherwise, and it is, by about 10 cents per piece. What really was a good deal though was the shipping. It was only $70 for two day UPS. Here is what I ordered. 8020 T Slot Aluminum Extrusion 10 S 1030 x 60 N.
Each piece was 60 inches long and cost $34.95. So the entire table, 20 pieces, 3 inches wide, was $850 delivered.
For the rail and bearings I found, again on E bay, an outfit with the name econvenience1986.
I am including their name because the two rails and bearings cost $270 shipped to me. It arrived in about four days and was shipped via Fed Ex for that price. What I ordered was 2X TBR16-2000mm 16MM SUPPORTED LINEAR RAIL+ 4 TBR16UU Router Bearing
The quality that I got was first rate.
The 1 1/2 by 2 inch angle came from Online Metals. http://www.onlinemetals.com
I sourced the hardware from McMaster Carr. Expensive(relatively) but fast and they do have the stuff. I went with all grade eight cap screws and elastic stop nuts. BTW do not buy T slot hardware from McMaster. I is a LOT cheaper on Ebay.
First step was to make up a drill jig so that I could use the drill press to drill the holes. Made out of scrap aluminum it is a three position deal. Drill the two holes in the center to fasten to the PowerStick, slide left and drill two holes, slide right and drill two holes. The only holes left to hand drill are the ones in the 1/4 thick angle that supports the rail.
I first mounted one piece of the Tslot to the PowerStick track. I then used a dial indicator to make sure that it was dead on parallel to the Y axis. See the picture. After that I re-mounted the indicator and used it to true the piece for flatness and tighten down the pieces that hold the bearings to the sides of the Buddy. Predictably the Tslot was drooping about 70 thousandths from the weight of the rails and of its own weight. I made up a jack out of a piece of scrap aluminum and a bolt to jack each side up so I could fasten down the bearings. After about 20 minutes of fiddling I got the slot within .002 from end to end.
To fasten the rest of the tracks I would move the X axis so that the Tslot being put on was just about over the bearing on that side. This way the bearing is truing the angle for me so that the Tslot is not exerting any force on the assembly.
I fastened down a piece of 3/4 inch ply as a spoil board. The first pass was at zero depth and it shaved a couple of areas of the board where it was a bit thick. The second pass was at a depth of .015 and I was rewarded by having the cutter make a complete cut with no voids at all.
First project was a plastic sign that was engraved .020 deep. Perfection!
This is a worthwhile project that will really extend the capabilities of your Buddy! Thanks Andrew!