Second try with Partworks3D

[scottp55]

Tried Partworks3D one morning Last December and liked (sort of) the results, but thought it took to long to make money at it for Dad. Didn't really have any files that moved me either.
Brian got me going on owls yesterday, and then a guy on Vectric showed a 3slice .STL he did with this model and I loved it/bought it/ tried to remember stuff from last year(failed:) )/carved it! Love it!! Going to oil it and give to Dad as an early Christmas:)
http://forum.vectric.com/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=21208
Need to do some homework, couldn't even figure out how to get my .0625"Tapered BN into the database as you can tell by the marks. 4X4" only has a .01"skin left, still undecided on cutout, probably just Oil it.
scott

[steve_g]

Scott…
Nice “miniature”! Here’s what I did with the same file… I’d missed the post on the Vectric forum, thanks for the link! Mine is a single layer. My daughter “confiscated” this one and other family members have put “dibs” on the next ones… Time to visit a friends mill to see if I can find some more “slabs”!
The one on the Vectric site was masterfully painted, I just lightly sprayed mine with a rattle can flat black and lightly sanded the highlights…
SG

[barrowj]

I would love to try a 3d like this but have no clue what speed/bits to use. Would you be willing to share your settings for the owl as an example, feedrates, bits, rough vs finish and timing? I would really appreciate it. I am working on my Christmas presents now and this would be a great one for my son.

Thanks in advance,
Joe

[scottp55]

Steve, Thanks for tip about paint--That looks really nice!!(I can see why it got "appropriated"). Did you separate the owl element in Aspire? Only have Partworks3D, so not very much I can change(Kind of Klunky). Really like the bark/bare wood effect on this one though.Wish I had Aspire as if I could just raise the area behind the owls head and then only cut 1 slice .25"--it would be kind of a neat but very expensive button:)
Wish I hadn't used a split scrap that has a test dado on the edge and a 28 yr old cut list written on the back though as it really limits my options if I want to give it to Dad tomorrow:(
Joe, Need to look at it under better light now that espresso is kicking in. Desktop starter bits would work. Used a CEnturion .25FEM Down for rough, but ONsrud .25 Down would work as well. Used the ONsrud .0625" Tapered BN.
Like I said basically a beginner also(first time the BN has ever been used). Only ever used the 1/8"BN on some open pore Ash last year to do some V3M's that came with Desktop on one board-so I was really "guesstimating".
Did the little one first and left .02" machining allowance and then ran the BN with the grain and then used the "make second pass 90degrees to first pass option" and noticed the with grain pass lifted fibers enough to leave toolmarks.
Big one, first pass was against the grain and second 90 pass was with and MUCH cleaner cut.
Used 2 different sets of settings-little one WAY too conservative. Big one roughed at "use 3D raster" 1.4, .4,10.5K .09"pass depth with .02" allowance. Finish with 1/16"tapered 2,2,16K 6.5% step. Made a note in log to cut allowance to .015" and try 3,3,16K 7% step next time. But just guessing, as this was the first time I've cut a bought .stl and I've forgotten most of what I learned on that Ash board a year ago:( Refresher course coming up:)

[barrowj]

Scott,

Thanks for the info, I don't have a tapered BN yet but I do have BNs down to 1/16. I'll give those a try first. I have been to several sites that have free .stl and downloaded quite a bit. I'm off work for 2weeks during Xmas so will give this a try then, hopefully I will be caught up with other things by then. I will update this thread once I give 3d a try.

Joe

[steve_g]

Joe…
I strongly encourage you to buy some tapered bullnose bits! You’ll break the others so fast it’ll make your head spin! A tapered bit has the strength of the shank diameter and cuts the detail of the tip… I’ve never actually cut with a 1/16” bit… I’ve broken them tightening the collet, bumping them with the wrench and just looking at them wrong! I know that the tapered bits are crazy expensive, but I’ve had good success with eBay Chinese ones.
Recently while I was cutting a 3D project, (running horses posted earlier) my brushes went out on my router about 5 hours into the finish cut, sensing a change in sound from the next room, I discovered my 1/8” tapered bit “scratching” the .02” finish cut off just fine! It sounded like the proverbial finger nails on the chalk board though! BUT, the bit didn’t break!
SG

[barrowj]

Steve,

Tried looking on ebay and most of the are 6mm shank, do you have a link to the ones you get? I do have 1/8" and 1/4" ball nose, just no tapered.

[steve_g]

Get the 6mm and other collets!
SG

http://www.elairecorp.com/portercablecollets.html?gclid=Cj0KEQiAqYCkBRC4xNiS u5-Y-PcBEiQA96OM9FDxQrXRuggE85yjaCkrhQMhCCWnKWn3QaSv_-11i5kaAvAf8P8HAQ

[barrowj]

Steve,

I knew that would be your answer and my finger was on the buy button for some metric sizes from the CNCRoutershop.com UK site, prices have been great as has been shipping. I have the 3hp Colombo ER25 Spindle....

Joe

[barrowj]

Opps, wrong site, it's the arceurotrade.co.uk site....

[scottp55]

Out of the blue a friend(knowing I only have Partworks 3D and can't modify files) and popped this into my inbox:)
1.5X.25" BUTTON:)
This was just a speed trial at 2,2,17K with a .01"machining allowance.
Hardly lied to my database at all!
Called a Kyocera .125" 30degree with a .002"flat a Tapered engraving bit this time.
Called it a .02" with 30degree angle and a .001" radius tip, 50% stepover.
Did a .001" offset outside and then did a profile ON line to full depth with the 30 degree first so side cutter and shank don't cut in Finish toolpath.
Did an exact Diameter offset for my roughing and then profiled INSIDE and OUTSIDE offset line for clearance.
Tomorrow will try calling 30 a .01" with a 15degree angle so program thinks it can get in further.
27 minutes---WAY better than 13 hours:)
Thanks Bob!!
scott

[khalid]

Wow... the details are amazing.. gr8

[scottp55]

Thanks Khalid, Top left was actually 28:07, but bottom right was a silly 13 hour cut.
Should have included that here but stuck in a "Comms" thread.
(Pertinent #16 and down here)http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20673
Just trying to get the details now, still beginner so I have the advantage of not knowing what I'm NOT "supposed" to do:)
Conventional settings with 1/16" Tapered Ball Nose for the 4X4" was about 90 minutes with I think it was 6.5% stepover---Didn't like the 9% cutting with the grain at all.

[khalid]

Thanks Khalid, Top left was actually 28:07, but bottom right was a silly 13 hour cut.
Should have included that here but stuck in a "Comms" thread.
(Pertinent #16 and down here)http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20673
Just trying to get the details now, still beginner so I have the advantage of not knowing what I'm NOT "supposed" to do:)
Conventional settings with 1/16" Tapered Ball Nose for the 4X4" was about 90 minutes with I think it was 6.5% stepover---Didn't like the 9% cutting with the grain at all.
For that small size you are getting too much time!!!! what are the IPM (feed)?

[scottp55]

Got the finish toolpath time down to 7:58, but had to run twice as it looked like a Chia Pet after first pass(Maple after all and coming into face grain).
Didn't get as much difference as I thought, by calling it .015"with .001"tip and 20 degrees:( 1 more at a called out .01" and 10 degree and see if I have to abandon calling it a tapered engraving.
Need to back off the 50% stepover too, but will try checking the"run second toolpath 90degrees to first" first.
Think it's time to shop for the same bit with a .004-.005" flat instead of the .002"
Khalid running 2,2,17K now.

[scottp55]

Calling 30 degree various diameters and angles doesn't seem to make as much difference when calling it a tapered engraving bit as when you call it an end mill?
Left to right/ top row
.02"30 degree .001"flat 28 minutes (no fuzzies/good finish)

.015" 20degree .001"flat 8 minutes(2passes because of fuzzies)

.01" 10degree .01"flat 25minutes(no fuzzies/only slightly more detail) :(

Bottom row/ calling it an endmill-significantly better detail. Need to try top file(modified) at bottom left settings for direct comparison.
All 5 done with the same bit, just calling it out different.
this one shows .006"flat-- will order today as my # with .002"seems to be sold out.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/30-degree-bits-for-scoring-or-engraving-sharp-point-narrow-tip-Kyocera-Tycom-/151386398234?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item233f551e1a

[scottp55]

Just trying to get used to VCP8 3D tools and methods, so went back to these 2 files to experiment with NO roughing toolpaths.
So these are cut Offset toolpath with Drillman1 Kyocera's .125" 30 degree with .012 flat.
Wanted to compare Climb vs Conventional, and also never got around to seeing whether Flatgrain or Endgrain was best for detail when we started playing with the kids blocks, so tossed that in the mix as well. Still have 100's of the suckers, and easy to swap out and CHEAP:)
All as they came off machine with only a stiff Boar bristle brush and then a shot of compressed.
MUCH faster to do in VCP8:)
Just comparing "Apples to Apples" for reference.

[scottp55]

And here are 2 of the original file.....Both endgrain.
Again Offset with no Roughing toolpath. Same bit.

[scottp55]

Finally finished the reference cuts, and chucked in an Onsrud .25" 30degree engraving bit with a .01" flat, and went with what I thought the best results were.
Cut great and love NO SANDING:)
So did a bunch for Dad to carry around as gifts, while I did stuff around the house.
All Offset toolpath with no roughing pass.
Linseed/Beeswax applied to 150F wood tomorrow.

[andyb]

Great work. I must be blind. One post on the Vectric forum must have had a link to the model but it is not there now. Where was the model purchased from?

Andy B.

[scottp55]

Andy,
Like James B. said, Vectric has had problems with the seller with their models, BUT on this particular model he said they didn't know the provenance but he wished he had done it. Nobody ever found it had been stolen. I'd be VERY leery of ordering any file that looked familiar though without researching, this one seems ok as both forums never found the original.STILL interested in buying from the original artist!
Just gave the last one away to a mother with a 6 month old girl with hip displasia and wearing a bodycast. We'll see if it can survive :)
Search/Google "Artcam 3D STL Model Owl for CNC " and the little guy will pop up.
scott