View Full Version : 3D carving 1st shot
David Iannone
12-16-2014, 01:01 AM
10.5" x 20" 3D Clipart cut out of 3/4" Pine
Art was $15 from ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171502231079?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
So far .5" Ballnose rough pass, then .25" endmill finish pass. Now cutting .125 Ballnose finish pass. Machine is paused for the night, will resume cutting tommorrow AM. Last toolpath before cutout will be a .0625 Ballnose bit. I think I might run last 3D toolpath in both directions?
I am just starting to learn more about 3D cutting. I think I am going to give it to my 88 year old grandfather for christmas. He has taught me so much over the years. I worked side by side with him for many years. But this was 10-15 years ago. Where does the time go?
i would cut that 6mm endmill rough pass then go straight to 1.6mm ballnose
bet you gonna have a slight line after finish pass from pause
good to see you jumping into 3d stuff...it's fun
scottp55
12-16-2014, 08:38 AM
David, Partworks3D or Aspire? Glad it's you doing a big one:)
Was .25" an upcut, with the grain? Looks like it might have pulled some grain up with the cut?
Sure your Granfather will LOVE it! Dad's 85 and is amazed at 3D on the 'Bot,(even with my mistakes:).
Limited experience and only in Maple, but did try 2 with a second pass at 90degrees, and had better luck if first was against grain. Had WAY better luck with 6% stepover than 8-9% with the .0625".
Glad you're getting into it!:)
Kinda like a "paint drying" contest at times compared to 2.5D though:)
Good luck!
scott
How deep is that one at deepest point?
cowboy1296
12-16-2014, 09:19 AM
I do mostly 3-d. Its time consuming but you can produce some great stuff. What i have noticed about 3-d is every thing warps. I did a pause once and started again a few hours later and had a line in my cut like Gene said. It was related to me that during that pause the wood had already started to move/warp, hence the line.
cowboy1296
12-16-2014, 09:39 AM
Not sure why you have so many finishing tool paths. I use primarily 1/8 or 1/16 ball nose. I always start off calculating my finishing tool path with the larger bit and then preview it. Leave your preview visible. Then calculate it with the smaller bit and then click preview. Watch your screen closely. If there is a major and enhanced difference in the preview go with the smaller bit. If you do not see much of a difference then stick with the bigger bit.
What feed rates and step over are you using? Also what type of wood?
Welcome to 3-d.
chiloquinruss
12-16-2014, 12:55 PM
the wood had already started to move/warp I did a mantle once out of Juniper! Left it on the bot and went to bed. Got up the next morning and undid the clamps! WOW! A 6 foot mantle piece was bowed up 2 inches from the table on both ends! :eek: So now when I do mantles I hollow out the back, flip it over and clamp it to my work table and leave overnight. Then I take it to the Bot for the carving. BTW, I don't use Juniper for mantles any more! LOL :D Really like your first 3d piece, well done. Russ
cowboy1296
12-16-2014, 02:08 PM
I have never had it warp that much. But i have noticed the bigger i do the more it might warp. I always use hardwood but juniper would look nice. I v carved it once.
I have never done a mantle before but want to. Due to the fact that i only have a buddy i dont have that much z. This is only a theory but if i ripped a beam in half, did my 3-d on one half and then glue and screwed it back to the other half would that work? Like I said only a theory.
I'm always up to helping with 2.5D carving but when it comes to 3d I'm not going over there. The only 3d I'm interested in is backgrounds. Smaller detailed work is both time consuming in carving and finishing. For that reason I don't show 3d to my customers for fear they may place an order.
Fellow like Gene C. doing volume 3d is another story. There are few of those guys posting. I wonder how many fellows are doing beautiful work like that? Wouldn't it be nice to have them posting on a regular basis.
Joe
David Iannone
12-16-2014, 05:48 PM
Not sure why you have so many finishing tool paths. I use primarily 1/8 or 1/16 ball nose. I always start off calculating my finishing tool path with the larger bit and then preview it. Leave your preview visible. Then calculate it with the smaller bit and then click preview. Watch your screen closely. If there is a major and enhanced difference in the preview go with the smaller bit. If you do not see much of a difference then stick with the bigger bit.
What feed rates and step over are you using? Also what type of wood?
Welcome to 3-d.
I was being conservative (I thought) But I will definitely be trying what Gene said on next one.
David Iannone
12-16-2014, 06:00 PM
David, Partworks3D or Aspire? Glad it's you doing a big one:)
Was .25" an upcut, with the grain? Looks like it might have pulled some grain up with the cut?
Sure your Granfather will LOVE it! Dad's 85 and is amazed at 3D on the 'Bot,(even with my mistakes:).
Limited experience and only in Maple, but did try 2 with a second pass at 90degrees, and had better luck if first was against grain. Had WAY better luck with 6% stepover than 8-9% with the .0625".
Glad you're getting into it!:)
Kinda like a "paint drying" contest at times compared to 2.5D though:)
Good luck!
scott
How deep is that one at deepest point?
-Aspire
-Piece of Pine
8% Stepover
-.5" Ballnose rough pass raster 0 degree angle 5, 1.5 inch/sec
-.25" endmill finish pass raster 90 degree angle 5, 1.5 inch/sec
-.125 Ballnose finish pass ratser 0 Degree angle 5, 1.5 inch/sec
-Last pass .03 Ballnose finish pass 90 degree angle .5, .3 inch/sec (Working on that now.....But it is ridiculous machine time for the .03 Ball (If I don't break it. Just seeing how much difference, if any, that small bit makes)
Overall size 10"x20".
I had to nudge the Z -.07 (-.01 at a time) to get it to where it is shaving into the material along the whole pass. Some areas are barley touching while other parts are deeper. So the material has certainly moved some.
Dave
cowboy1296
12-16-2014, 06:00 PM
If you want to call it a market, 3-d is where my market is. I have seen some of your 2.5 d larger signs Joe and they are outstanding. I only have a buddy, so making the bigger ones can be a pain. Typically the biggest plaque that i make is 17 inches round. I am hi-jacking someone else's thread but if you want pictures here are a few of my latest.
David Iannone
12-16-2014, 06:04 PM
I'm always up to helping with 2.5D carving but when it comes to 3d I'm not going over there. The only 3d I'm interested in is backgrounds. Smaller detailed work is both time consuming in carving and finishing. For that reason I don't show 3d to my customers for fear they may place an order.
Fellow like Gene C. doing volume 3d is another story. There are few of those guys posting. I wonder how many fellows are doing beautiful work like that? Wouldn't it be nice to have them posting on a regular basis.
Joe
I agree. It is from the nice work posted here that inspires me to learn new things. I definately am learning on this practice piece...LOL I have a mountain of machine time left on it. But just run for as long as I can each day.
David Iannone
12-16-2014, 06:06 PM
If you want to call it a market, 3-d is where my market is. I have seen some of your 2.5 d larger signs Joe and they are outstanding. I only have a buddy, so making the bigger ones can be a pain. Typically the biggest plaque that i make is 17 inches round. I am hi-jacking someone else's thread but if you want pictures here are a few of my latest.
VERY Nice Plaques. No worries about the thread. Post pics. Great stuff
cowboy1296
12-16-2014, 06:11 PM
thanks, but you know the old saying, even a blind squirrel..............
David Iannone
12-16-2014, 06:15 PM
Today's Progress....Slow going.
Have to cut two 2'x3' 1" Thick Duna Board signs for a wholesale customer tomorrow. I put the plaque up out of the way on table since I knew I would have to keep coming back to it.
I have a hole drilled with 1/4" bit -1,-1 of X,Y zero right into table bed right now. Tomorrow I will do, say, maybe a M2 -48,-36. Then Z2. Place material on table, cut. When I'm done with that, do M2 +48,+36 then Z2. Change tool and rezero Z and restart. Will be interesting to see how many opps marks I am going to end up with when all is done? I already have some now....LOL
Dave
cowboy1296
12-16-2014, 06:33 PM
I can only imagine how long it is taking to cut the Lords Supper. There is a lot of Z movement on it which adds a lot of time.
Rick,
Outstanding 3D work. Please keep posting for those who are interested in this kind of routing.
For the life of me I can't see how I'd ever make a living doing this kind of work. Most of my signs are, as you say, are larger and don't take very long to complete. Finishing has been one of my creative interests. However, all of it comes from creative design work. Without that it's all for naught.
With the exceptional 3D programs on the market many hobby, part time, fellows enjoy themselves playing around with these techniques. I applaud their efforts. Fun stuff to see and marvel over but at the end of the month the bills come due.
Joe
David Iannone
12-17-2014, 11:21 AM
Came in this morning to control computer. I have been leaving the machine paused at night and restarting each morning on this test. This morning when I hit resume it wasn't talking to machine. Restart SB software, then it picked the control box back up, and I restarted from the last line#.
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