Cutting larger than table

[Tim Lucas]

Need a little help here, I am cutting out a countertop that is 100" by 55" - I drew it up in Vcarve and tried to use the tile toolpaths but when I did it assumed the outside edges were ok and did not cut them at all.
What is the best way to set up the cut paths for oversized parts and I would like to add dog bone joints so the parts snap together.

Thanks in advance
Tim

[harryball]

If I understand what you're saying, you want to design a single part then cut it as 2 "sheets" that snap together?

If so, I always set my sheet size to the table size, but for stuff like this I set it large enough to comfortably draw the part. Then I reset my sheet size to my table size and cut my part where needed and move it to a different layer repositioning it on the sheet. I end up with 2 layers one name "Sheet 1" and the other named "Sheet 2". I just turn on whichever layer I want to work on.

For the dogbone or whatever joint you need, I'll turn on both layers and move the point of interest (the overlap) to the center of the table and do whatever I need to get it like I want it.

Hope that helps. There are a lot of different ways to do it with similar results, much comes down to preference, experience and needs.

Now... If you were talking about machining parts longer than your table and moving the part in the middle of the cut, I've done that a couple of times. I don't like doing that, it's nerve racking for me but with some index points it is not too bad.

If that's not it please describe more what you're trying to accomplish, someone here has likely done something similar.

/RB

[scottp55]

Tim, Ran across that once but it was several months ago, Think I offset entire design inwards .125" and then it cut. Not positive but check it on preview?

[Tim Lucas]

If I understand what you're saying, you want to design a single part then cut it as 2 "sheets" that snap together?

If so, I always set my sheet size to the table size, but for stuff like this I set it large enough to comfortably draw the part. Then I reset my sheet size to my table size and cut my part where needed and move it to a different layer repositioning it on the sheet. I end up with 2 layers one name "Sheet 1" and the other named "Sheet 2". I just turn on whichever layer I want to work on.

For the dogbone or whatever joint you need, I'll turn on both layers and move the point of interest (the overlap) to the center of the table and do whatever I need to get it like I want it.

Hope that helps. There are a lot of different ways to do it with similar results, much comes down to preference, experience and needs.

Now... If you were talking about machining parts longer than your table and moving the part in the middle of the cut, I've done that a couple of times. I don't like doing that, it's nerve racking for me but with some index points it is not too bad.

If that's not it please describe more what you're trying to accomplish, someone here has likely done something similar.

/RB
Yes, that is what I am doing. I think you are right, the layers will work good for me, Thanks

[Tim Lucas]

Tim, Ran across that once but it was several months ago, Think I offset entire design inwards .125" and then it cut. Not positive but check it on preview?
Thanks Scott, I off set it .125 and worked ok on the first top. Will tackle another one tomorrow.

[MogulTx]

I have drilled index holes so that I can reposition something and it works really well.

I have also taken parts off my machine and then made sacrificial boards that wrap around my part to allow me to hold it in place (trap it) so I can continue to mill it. Also works well. You have to make some preplanning, based on the part, as to how you will hold the component so that it is going to be exactly where you thought it would be. For something like this, You might leave some extra "drop" on the sides and cut an edge profile that can only fit and line up in one way.... and then cut the inverse portion in some sacrificial material that gets clamped to the deck. Then your part will only "key" into it in one place and one orientation... Of course, you have to figure out how far down the bed that you have to move the workpiece and then you also index the surround piece by that amount ( and a little more for a safety factor.) There is no wrong way to do this.. you just need to figure out how to make it work for YOU!!

[scottp55]

Tim, I may also have increased my cutting area by an 1/8" PER SIDE and then offfset the same amount and turned of my file limit checking. Didn't keep a great logbook back the. :(
Glad it worked- keep notes for next time.
scott
Always used reference dowels, but Bill Youngs "sine wave" reference screw on fence looks good, but haven't tried it yet.