Building a 36"X70" PVC panel ground sign

[joe]

I've enjoyed working with PVC but it was a slow start with lots of reservations. Some of this came from hearing this material won't paint well, will warp like crazy and won't carry detail. Here's an opportunity to see how well it comes together.

When redwood became scarce it was necessary to move on. What a blessing. It made me investigate rough cedar. Then I moved on to HDU for a few years but never liked it much. One of my sign hero friends, Dan Boranian, from Calif. suggested PVC after hearing my dislike for HDU grip and problems with painting, etc. He encouraged me use thick PVC. This material was about half price of foam and ten times tougher. It's turned out to be one of my favorites.

In the next week I'll show some of the techniques we use.

The illustration is for a single sided ground sign 36"X70". The front surface is from 1" while the back is .75" I used scraps for the top, bottom, sides and cleats. You may notice the cleated don't register to the top and bottom of the panel allowing for air movement. There are holes at top and bottom for air movement.

As I go along, if anyone has question please post and everyone will benefit.

[steve_g]

Joe…
I’d decided to try PVC for some sign letters… When I called Allied Plastic supply here in Dallas, they kept trying to sell me Sintra or other brands of Foam PVC. That’s not what I want is it? The only thing they had solid is a “mechanical” grade for plumbing… Am I missing something ?
SG

[joe]

Steve,

That's a common question. I'd use what ever they had on hand. Each manufacturer's product will be different. N. Glantz sells one I've used and it works well. Their 1" sells for about $184.00. Some of these have more out-gassing than others. My preference is a smooth, slick, surface. Those products seem to have more density. Keep in mind some of the solid PVC's are high dollar. I couldn't recommend them.

One topic I haven't covered is the glue. DON'T use the Oatley glue that's offered at Home Depot. What you want is the PVC glue made by Gorilla. I't not like regular Gorilla glue and you'll only find it in the plastic pipe section. And forget the purple stuff.

I'll look over my stock for a name when I get to work Monday and post them.

Joe

[joe]

Here's a couple more photo's.

[RossMosh]

Joe…
I’d decided to try PVC for some sign letters… When I called Allied Plastic supply here in Dallas, they kept trying to sell me Sintra or other brands of Foam PVC. That’s not what I want is it? The only thing they had solid is a “mechanical” grade for plumbing… Am I missing something ?
SG

PVC sheet comes in two different grades that's made by several manufacturers.

One is an interior grade which is softer and more foamy. It has a matte finish. I have no experience but what I've read and been told by the manufacturers is that over time when outside, its cell structure weakens. The other option is an exterior grade which is still a PVC foam, but it's more rigid. This product has a gloss finish. Typically the exterior grade is only a few bucks more than the interior stuff. The exterior stuff only comes in white.

I'd recommend calling up KommerlingUSA and having them send you a sample pack. You'll be able to see the difference between the interior grade and the exterior grade stuff.

[blackhawk]

Joe - What specific endmills have you been using on the PVC? If you have specific part numbers, that would be great. Thanks

[joe]

Brad,

I'll ask my router guy what he's using. I sold off my router going on two years ago and send all that work out. When I was routing it though just about anything I had worked fine. This isn't a fussy material.

The only down side is the static which makes the chips stick to everything. Even when I use my hand router for coves it's a mess.

Joe

[joe]

Brad,

I forgot to mention how I work with details on PVC. If you view the last photo's where there's copy and detail. All of that was individual pieces and applied after. Even the delicate little address was taken to the bandsaw and parsed out. No one in their right mind would do this but can't help myself. I'm so picky that's what it takes. It's doubtful that anyone could tell about the letter thickness but me. At the bandsaw I'll cut for thickness and if it seems wrong, I'll go back to change it up.

It's the same way a woman puts on her lipstick. It's gotta be just right and you can't do it for her.

Joe

[RossMosh]

Joe - What specific endmills have you been using on the PVC? If you have specific part numbers, that would be great. Thanks

PVC, like most acrylics, like "O" Flute endmills. Personally, I've had no luck with straight 1/8" "O" Flute endmills. They always snap on me almost immediately. There is a decent chance it's my router. I've found 2 flute bits work just fine though and are much more durable. I'd stick with the "O" flute on larger diameter bits though but if you had a PVC job and only had a 2 flute bit, the results should be more than acceptable.

[joe]

All the letters for this sign were routed out and then applied.

One of the little techniques I often use with the Band Saw technique is to set the table on angle. Fun.