Anyone happen to have cut stone veneer?

[Sk8MFG]

We have a project coming up which requires the use of stone veneer (real stone). Very thin stuff, 1/32" or so, fiberglass backed slate.

Anyone have any experiences with it? We have some samples to test out, but any additional insights would be helpful. Speeds, feeds, tool selection, etc.

I imagine we will have to pick up some PCD tooling due to the abrasive nature of it.

Thanks!

[Brady Watson]

"Stone" is almost like saying "wood". Marble cuts well with a regular carbide end mill; soapstone the best. Others will vary. The only way to tell is to test. The fiberglass scrim on the back will probably be the biggest pain of the whole job. I'd start with a regular end mill & focus on minimizing shock loads - ramp your entries.

-B

[bleeth]

Slate is super hard and needs the right stone tools used wet to cut correctly.
I wouldn't want the slurry from that all over my bot for anything.

[jerry_stanek]

I cut it on a tile saw.

[scottp55]

Been wanting to cut soapstone/marble for while since I saw Randalls thread. Kept putting it off and Scairt.
Saw this and then while having lunch saw this piece of Maine slate I've had for 15 yrs.
I could ALMOST scratch it with my fingernail (Mohs hardness scale 2-2.5) and easily scratched with an American penny (Mohs 4), so said what the....
Took my piece of junk Chinese Autec TiN .125 BN that I swore never to use again after a disastrous walnut cut, and "DON'T LAUGH" took my best WAG (Wild As*ed Guess) on feeds and speeds keeping in mind how much I baby my spindle.
Piece was nowhere Near flat and only tried the .5" square in center first.
Dust stayed put for the most part, even with the Fein II running full bore with no dust skirt.
Then next border out same settings, but .005" deeper as material got thicker on left corner--still cut good.
Next border again same, BUT it was probably cutting .15" on upper left on very first pass.
Noticed some VERY SMALL SHARP flakes, so wear full eye protection!!
Only 8% stepover so no chips on subsequent passes. Think all dust would have DC'd up if dust foot was on, as on last border it was sucking everything clean almost to the center.
Dry cut, no air assist, bit stayed cool throughout all cuts, TiN coating still fully intact.
I'd hate to try to make money at these speeds, BUT it can be done if your Slate can be Almost scratched with fingernail AND scratches with ANNEALED copper electrical wire like mine did.
Just an experiment while playing with a Beeswax/Linseed experiment on the stove.
( YES BRADY!! I Vacced her within an inch of her life, then wiped off, THEN blew her off with 90PSI:)
Hope this helps someone(THANKS RANDALL:)
scott

[scottp55]

Baby settings:)

[Brady Watson]

Scott - Looks good. Just a quick note: You should always try to use the shortest cutting length (CEL) you can to reduce deflection and breakage. Then you can crank up the wick and get some real chips off that puppy.

-B

[scottp55]

Heck Brady, Next time I Might even go ALL the way and clamp it:)
Funny, Always fanatical about surfacing With the 'Bot so everything is uniform.
With this perfect square pattern, the BallNose radius changed it according to the Stone:)
Got me thinking what a perfect geometric pattern carved in an Almost flat chunk of figured firewood would look like with a .5" BN?
Hmmm:)
Thanks for tip for when I get serious.
That was the Boring side...Reason I saved it was the other side was layered and reminded me of a coastline with a 3D of the ocean bottom.
scott

[knight_toolworks]

this is the time to take it to someone with a waterjet and give them a dxf file. Wish I had one.

[Sk8MFG]

Thanks for the input guys. I've added ramps to our paths, and played around with feeds and speeds. Nothing replaces just getting down and cutting stuff.

I think a couple of you were throw off track with the mention of "stone".
This particular stuff can be cut with scissors, bent over 90*, and even forced into limited compound bends. It's pretty neat how they make it too. Essentially, they laminate a sheet of fiberglass to a block of stone and peel it off taking a layer of slate with it.

We've done some test cutting, with a 1/8" downcut endmill, 1ips, .125 passes, spiral ramped. No problem at all! With our 1/2" compression bit, we can cut it just as we would with any of our wood/fiberglass/carbon skateboards. 6-9ips, .65 pass, ramped lead in.

[scottp55]

Thanks for posting speeds!
I was ONLY 10X too cautious:)
Interesting technique to manufacture. Had to remove 2 of those super thin "flakes" with a razor before I cut.
Does the material have a little bit of natural texture to it?
I was just thinking it would be an interesting inlay material if it did.
scott

[Sk8MFG]

Thanks for posting speeds!
I was ONLY 10X too cautious:)
Interesting technique to manufacture. Had to remove 2 of those super thin "flakes" with a razor before I cut.
Does the material have a little bit of natural texture to it?
I was just thinking it would be an interesting inlay material if it did.
scott

Cautious is better than broken endmills.

The surface has quite a bit of texture, could look fantastic as an inlay.

The company has several varieties/colours, and a couple different backings. I've had samples of similar material from several different companies, much of it is far too thick and brittle.

http://www.surfaceinnovation.ca/products/slateflex/
Mike at Surface Innovations was quite helpful, sent me photos and samples of the actual material I received as there is quite a bit of character to each sheet.

Here are a couple photos of the pieces I have, trying to show the texture.2458224583

[scottp55]

Thanks for link(bookmarked).
Thinking it could be attractive and nice tactile!
Worried a little at the dark nodules in most attractive(to me) piece in first pic as that's normally harder material. Is that the one you cut?
Know about Brittle:(
Tried VCarving Calcite the next day with a 45 engraving----SuPPOSED to be "OH, NO!!" :).
Brady had a tip to spritz it with water/ or possibly soapy water, but time to get back to work and will play later.
scott

[Sk8MFG]

Thanks for link(bookmarked).
Thinking it could be attractive and nice tactile!
Worried a little at the dark nodules in most attractive(to me) piece in first pic as that's normally harder material. Is that the one you cut?
Know about Brittle:(
Tried VCarving Calcite the next day with a 45 engraving----SuPPOSED to be "OH, NO!!" :).
Brady had a tip to spritz it with water/ or possibly soapy water, but time to get back to work and will play later.
scott

Now that I know the bot can handle some limited stone work..... Oh man, this has got my little brain thinking.
Love learning new things about big blue (my sb).