V-Carving Cedar

[rseeley13]

2491824919

I have been reading a ton of posts here regarding v-carving. I can get great turn outs with other woods but when I try cedar I still am not happy as you can see by the pictures. I am running 1.2ips @16,000rpms while using a 1/2" 90deg vbit with 1/2" shank. Any suggestions?

Thanks

[cnc_works]

What you see is what you get. I've v-carved thousands of pieces of cedar and what you have is probably the average cut. Cedar varies so much from almost creamy that cuts very cleanly to very fibrous that tears and frays. Some things that help are a second cut at the same depth, some improvement by spraying shellac to crisp up the fibers and making a second same depth or .001 so deeper. Tight vertical grain cuts well and flat not so well. Your feeds and speeds are in the ballpark. Having a sharp bit is an absolute necessity.

Rots a ruck!

[dlcw]

Agree with Donn.

Cedar is not the most friendly wood when it comes to machining. Even machining on a router table with super sharp bits produces questionable results. Cedar is just to fibrous a wood to let it machine cleanly. The other option is to hand carve it and your carvings will be a little cleaner - but that defeats the purpose of having a CNC in the first place. :-(

[bobmoore]

It looks to me like you need to do some node editing (or maybe machine adjustment). The entire left side of the k seems to really wander. Bob

[Ajcoholic]

I am definitley NOT a sign maker... but I get asked several times a year to make cottage and rural property signs - which I use 1" or 2" Western red cedar for.

I use Dimar insert carbide bits, and typically run 12,000 rpm, and feed speeds of 180 to 240 ipm. The cuts are generally very good IMO, but no waviness like you show (but some fuzzy parts that I just use a small brass bristle brush to clean up before painting).

I just did a large (48" by 30") rural home sign that had a 3D log cabin carved in the center that I did with a 1/8th ball end, that carved much better than I expected.

Cedar does vary so much in grain and density. I buy clear grade from my dealer (it is expensive) but I get 16' planks completely knot free and generally uniform, even grain. It wont hurt to start with a better grade of wood, but of course it adds to the cost.

[rseeley13]

Thanks everyone, the machine is due for an overhaul so I will make sure everything is tight and setup properly.

[Roy Harding]

I use a lot of cedar in my work. I also get clears from my supplier (I'm in northern British Columbia - red cedar is like a weed around here.)

When v-carving, I cut twice (at around 11K rpm, and 120 IPM). After the first carve, I soak the v-carving in shellac, then cut again. Occasionally, I'll soak it a second time, and carve a third time, at .001" deeper.

[James M]

Roy,

Where do you get your shellac from? I've found it increasing difficult to find shellac at the home centres in Calgary and area. I did finally find some denatured alcohol so that I can cut the shellac when I find it. I hate having to use methanol instead of denatured ethanol.

[bobmoore]

I think most home centers now sell premixed shellac rather than the flakes you cut with alcohol.