View Full Version : Can someone recommend a planing bit for hardwoods?
I am looking to use my Desktop as a planer for a month or 2 while I rebuild an old Rockwell Delta planer. What is a good surfacing bit? Any recommendations for holding down a board for planing?
Chuck Keysor
06-10-2015, 07:43 PM
Zamm, here is the planing bit that I use, the Amana RC 2257, which is 2 1/2" dia, with replaceable blades. It is pricey, but a number of people on this forum have recommended it. I like mine. http://tools.toolstoday.com/search?w=planing%20bits Chuck
scottp55
06-10-2015, 09:19 PM
Kevin,
If it's only for a little bit, maybe something like Bill Young offered to us Desktoppers could be used? Could use anything for a fence, but the hole spacing for his .crv wedges and fences would make it easy on/off
I'd only pick what you need for a simple setup, but the eccentric triangles are very good.
#12 on this thread
http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/showthread.php?19057-Desktop-Jigging-Pics&highlight=desktop+jigging
Just checked and link still works
https://app.box.com/wedging-top
Not sure if you want to spend that much on a bit, But we surface ALL our wood from Cherry to Bloodwood because it has to be pretty close so we don't cut through carpet tape, and had good luck with this one.
You CAN bog/STOP spindle down right around .16" pass, but you're not going to get the best finish on anything more than .03" skim pass. 40% stepover and Feed of between 2-3.4IPS(depending on wood and pass depth) at 12K with 5" ramp is what I settled on,as some of our rough is a little squirelly, and you can bog down on super high spots.
http://www.amazon.com/Whiteside-Router-Bits-1304-Diameter/dp/B000K2G1QK/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1406937893&sr=1-1&keywords=whiteside+1304
Adding inserts in a couple spots will really keep things down for some type of camclamp/wedge action, as with just the dowels there can be lifting.
Like the Shopfox clamps as they force the wood down and in, and clamping them onto a wedge works great as they don't have much throw, and rough edge can make them useless. BB ply or 1/2" for fence/wedges will let you skim over them, but need a spacer to keep Shopfox out of cutting area as they're about .78"high.
Adding a couple pics of various configurations.(surprised I didn't take any pics of the exact setup--too mundane I guess:)
Hope this help at all.
Rambling
scott
Simops
06-11-2015, 02:33 AM
I use the Shopbot quite often to joint and thickness pieces too large for the jointer and thicknesser.
I also I use the RC2257 and at times the smaller one from the Shopbot starter kit. The 2.5" spoilboard RC2257 works a treat and is quick.
Works very well.
Cheers
pappybaynes
06-11-2015, 08:19 AM
Zamm, here is the planing bit that I use, the Amana RC 2257, which is 2 1/2" dia, with replaceable blades. It is pricey, but a number of people on this forum have recommended it. I like mine. http://tools.toolstoday.com/search?w=planing%20bits Chuck
Zamm, I use the smaller Amana RC 2249 http://tools.toolstoday.com/search?w=planing%20bits and love it. Dick
scottp55
06-11-2015, 09:38 AM
Ouchy$
What would pass depth/feeds be for a 1hp spindle?
You guys trammed with a dial indicator?(since Z-upgrade not POSITIVE I'm dead-nut anymore, but 150-220G gets rid of marks fast, so must be close)
Are cutters on those hard to accurately replace?(only experience was 20 yrs ago and it took a setup with a granite reference table and other stuff I no longer have access to).
Just another thread for spoilboard cutters, but still on my first, and have a second whiteside so haven't looked further.
http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/showthread.php?20452-spoilboard-cutter&highlight=spoilboard+cutter
bleeth
06-11-2015, 01:08 PM
I don't think it's worth it to spin a 2 1/2" cutter for a desktop.
I've been using the Whiteside mentioned for years and it cuts fine and cleans my spoilboard in 10 minutes or so. (4 x 8)
pappybaynes
06-11-2015, 01:57 PM
Ouchy$
What would pass depth/feeds be for a 1hp spindle?
You guys trammed with a dial indicator?(since Z-upgrade not POSITIVE I'm dead-nut anymore, but 150-220G gets rid of marks fast, so must be close)
Are cutters on those hard to accurately replace?(only experience was 20 yrs ago and it took a setup with a granite reference table and other stuff I no longer have access to).
Just another thread for spoilboard cutters, but still on my first, and have a second whiteside so haven't looked further.
http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/showthread.php?20452-spoilboard-cutter&highlight=spoilboard+cutter
Scott, if you go the Amana route the small one like I have is just fine is just fine...I used it on the big ShopBot and now on the smaller machine...cutters are easily and accurately replaced
Dick
scottp55
06-11-2015, 02:13 PM
Thanks Dick,
After I go through my backup, if anything, probably go Onsrud . Have to buy one for the second Desktop on any bit I buy, and just can't see it now.
You saw the setup, and times work out great for sanding out blank while the next one is cutting, so happy with setup now for us.
Bigger machine and another .5-1hp and I could see it.
scott
Thanks guys! I went with Scott's Whiteside bit. Since I'm on the desktop I can't justify the 10x the price for the larger bits.
scottp55
06-11-2015, 07:15 PM
Kevin,
It may not matter for your application, but after trying all kinds of feed/speed/toolpaths on 24" blanks on all woods, and then comparing sanding times to get it down to a perfect 320G before carving....found out that final pass of .01-.02" at 2.2,1,12K 5"ramp 32%stepover in offset/conventional cut saved me almost a minute on sanding times in general for a 4X24" blank of anything, including Quilted/Curly,Purpleheart,Padauk,Teak,Bloodwood and things like almost Burled material.
So now that's the default, and just SHift> for Maple,Cherry,Walnut to 2.6-3IPS, but mostly just RR'ing and swapping the blanks out.
.05" pass seems to be thickest pass with the grain you can get away with, without getting splinters that can clog Desktops DC inlet.
You'll like the length of the bit also as it's perfect for our dustfoot if set about 1/4-1/2" above the bottom of the bristles. Gets almost everything:)
Offset your board size by .6" and anchor at -.3,-.3 and it will cut clean corners and not trip your prox if fencing at 0,0.
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