View Full Version : Star Hanger Systems
cabnet636
09-25-2015, 06:06 PM
My Friend Kip Porter Has developed a system of Panel and Millwork fastening and systems. I install a lot of ADA restrooms and this has made a major difference in our time and Profit.
for My friends check this out
http://www.starhanger.com/
http://www.starhanger.com/pages/star-blue-zero-animation
interesting system...now to study how we can use this for installations into concrete walls...
cabnet636
09-25-2015, 10:15 PM
I have used it on lots of installs, we put a cleat attached with lead heads (Drive pins) then attached to the cleat, the one for direct to sheetrock wors really well and layout is a snap
This one was done on old Brick, it is some kind of expensive cork board
cabnet636
09-25-2015, 10:20 PM
The quality is better than any I have ever used and the time savings is great. We were able to sell a panel system to a rural community center at half of what the architect prebid and made money
this wa hung directly on sheetrock
ckurak
09-27-2015, 11:31 AM
Jim,
Have you tried their "connector bolts" for pulling two adjacent panels together? It looks similar to a counter-top connector. At 9.95 for a 10-pack, it would work well for me for both functionality and time-savings.
I have been using Zip-Bolts (UT Mini 6mm x 100m) and really like them. But occasionally they strip out.
The Star Hanger connector bolts look simpler in design. I do wonder about the ease and reliability of the tightening system with an allen socket wrench. Also, I cannot find any specifications for the dimensions of the connectors, nor how thick/thin the connecting panels need to be. I believe I searched the entire Star website without finding any specifications for these bolts.
cabnet636
09-27-2015, 05:03 PM
Kip gave me some of the connector bolts Friday, I have been cutting prototypes of Jigs out for him and he showed me the handicap vanity setup as well. this is some pics of danny setting panels with the "Blue Zero " (Our Favorite for wood)
scottp55
09-27-2015, 07:21 PM
James,
Do you have pics of the handicapped vanity?
I'd like to hide my pipes in both bathrooms plus the kitchen sink, but still have very easy access and never came up with a super simple no tool design that went with the teak.
Thanks,
scott
cabnet636
09-27-2015, 11:04 PM
I have been working on this for some time,, The purist ADA standard is based on a wall hanging porcelain sink.. Up until a few years ago the ADA vanity as we know it used a soap dispenser which was a pump this was no problem for the Angled undermount vanity because few had to worry about the removal of the panel on any consistant basis to change the soap, when Buildings began to use the electronic dispenser this required maintenance (Low paid cleaning personnel) to have to remove the panel, Naturally this lead to damaged panels and fastners which were not made to accommodate lots of use. the star hanger is far more durable and has a life expectancy to accommodate this.
For me there is still the issue of the heavy panels being handled bay basically those who do not care to keep it from being damaged (Basially it becomes a moving part) I have recreated the ADA to use a flat front panel with access doors to prevent this. so far this vanity has passed state. local and federal inspectors. I will soon make the plans available for all to use. I have one modification to make and we are incorporating the star hanger as an installation method.
cabnet636
09-27-2015, 11:11 PM
this is the angled handicap we are still using when an architect will not accept newer style. In the next couple of weeks I will post the flat pack method we are devloping
scottp55
09-28-2015, 08:22 AM
Thank you Very much James! :)
I still have 2 sheets of the 3/4 Teak ply, but also saw 2 sheets of 1/4" Teak:)
Think I'll go the 1/4" now that I saw his epoxy plates just to keep the weight down.
Definitely angled mount and leaving the kick plate off and suspending framework from double layer of 3/4" the Kohlers are sunk into in bathrooms.
Bookmarked Kips site...said the epoxy mounts"custom designed and manufactured? Does that mean a large minimum order? They look good for my Corian custom 3 sink corner kitchen unit, but that may take some thinking after I do baths.
What's your kickboard(sorry about my non cabinet maker terminology) height? I quite regularly bash/scrape the tops of my feet on my shop cabinets which are 6". Kitchen cabinets are ok because because I dropped the space to 3 and 4" to lower granite countertop height for my manual sports chair(also let me lower upper cabinets so at least 2 shelves are accessible). short 3" section allowed lower counter height so upper cabinets stayed same height but still give enough height for a Kitchenaid mixer to be tucked in.
Really appreciate it.
scott
jerry_stanek
09-28-2015, 10:52 AM
Thank you Very much James! :)
I still have 2 sheets of the 3/4 Teak ply, but also saw 2 sheets of 1/4" Teak:)
Think I'll go the 1/4" now that I saw his epoxy plates just to keep the weight down.
Definitely angled mount and leaving the kick plate off and suspending framework from double layer of 3/4" the Kohlers are sunk into in bathrooms.
Bookmarked Kips site...said the epoxy mounts"custom designed and manufactured? Does that mean a large minimum order? They look good for my Corian custom 3 sink corner kitchen unit, but that may take some thinking after I do baths.
What's your kickboard(sorry about my non cabinet maker terminology) height? I quite regularly bash/scrape the tops of my feet on my shop cabinets which are 6". Kitchen cabinets are ok because because I dropped the space to 3 and 4" to lower granite countertop height for my manual sports chair(also let me lower upper cabinets so at least 2 shelves are accessible). short 3" section allowed lower counter height so upper cabinets stayed same height but still give enough height for a Kitchenaid mixer to be tucked in.
Really appreciate it.
scott
In the trade show business they use hook and latch to mount all kinds of panels
scottp55
09-28-2015, 11:53 AM
Thanks Jerry, but kind of have this "No exposed screws" Craftsman theme in the house and pretty much stuck with it from the start.
Did consider a through tenon with wedges at one point,but mock up they made was that was easily reachable and rugged enough to handle humidity changes bashed my knees. So we dropped it and never got back to it. Did try a fabric "curtain" which looked great to start,but after 6 months or less, all 3 fabrics looked like Dreck.
Think these fasteners and 1/4" Teak ply with cloudlifted Flame Red Birch frame will be just the ticket to fit bathroom decor.
My FAS Teak is down to scraps and wider 8/4 I'm saving.
Yep, that rule caused a lot of headache and trouble, but looks nice.
scott
jerry_stanek
10-01-2015, 10:25 AM
There are no exposed screws when we do this. self stick and staple can be stuck and removed hundreds of times and it fails you can change it out
cabnet636
10-01-2015, 10:38 AM
In a trade show application I could see Jerrys method, Yet in architectural heavy panel set to last with out fail for Years to come I would consider something far heavier in hold capacity
scottp55
10-01-2015, 04:00 PM
Thanks Jerry, must have been using the wrong terms in my quick search, and probably misconception on my part of what you were talking about.
Beautiful James!
With enough of the full connectors, going into horizontal 2X4's I've got pole barn spiked 24"OC to my 2X6 stud wall. Would you feel comfortable hanging a full sheet of 3/4" cabinet ply with something like a integral quilt rack or solid wood curio shelves(light weight stuff--no books) free floating on a 10' wall? Do have a 5/4X6" Cherry picture rail with a 1/2" dado cut in top I could tie into with the trim. Just curious how much additional weight you think you'd be comfortable with. Could rest the whole panel on the same size Cherry mopboard. Just trying to get an idea.
Just the 3 sinks pics. Any ideas welcome, but haven't rescoped the angles yet. Would like to be able to mop/vac right into corners. Baths are a double layer ACX and then concrete backer board for granite so plenty of beef to suspend. Kitchen sink front is 5' and 1" Corian top, but probably tie into the cabinets and the front 8/4 front support.
Sorry for picking brains on James thread, but I like the looks of these.
Thanks guys,
scott
scottp55
10-01-2015, 04:39 PM
James,
On those last pics, full sheets where you could and then just dark stain the dado's?
NICE effect:)
How many hangers for a full sheet, and what was behind it?
Thanks,
scott
cabnet636
10-01-2015, 04:45 PM
We told the sheet rocker to get lost, he was holding up the job and the rock served no purpose as it was not fire rated. We then built a frame work of 1/2" ply to accept fastners and used black plam for the reveals....
one of the most Profitable jobs we ever did relative. the job had an 82 day span and the rocker acted like a pre-maddona Architect agreed with me and GC was happy to see him go and save a lot of money
cabnet636
10-01-2015, 04:47 PM
The costly vents they purchased looked like ****, We made those out of .5 black sintra and covered them in aluminum before we machined them to inlay, I have done a tone of work for that architect and it is nice to be "Preffered"
scottp55
10-01-2015, 05:13 PM
Thanks James.
WOW.. don't google "plam" with youngsters around:)
cabnet636
10-01-2015, 05:35 PM
Oh crippy one learns something New everyday,, from now on it will be just PL
Charles Porter 3
10-01-2015, 07:31 PM
Charles Kurak
The Connectors are basically the same as standard Counter Top Connectors, except the have a 3/16" Allen Head and they are just as strong.
I will add a Spec. Sheet and a CAD Jig Layout to the website.
The grade is: 5 Allen Bolt, 3/16” Socket, 1/4”-20 UNC x 3-1/2” with 2” of threaded length. Heat treated, Zinc Plated.
Thank you
Charles (Kip)Porter
Charles Porter 3
10-01-2015, 07:38 PM
Scott
The Epoxy Mounts are a stock item.
There is no minimum order.
If you send your address to me at cporter@Starhanger.com I will send you some samples.
Thank you
Charles (Kip) Porter
ckurak
10-01-2015, 07:59 PM
Charles Kurak
The Connectors are basically the same as standard Counter Top Connectors, except the have a 3/16" Allen Head and they are just as strong.
I will add a Spec. Sheet and a CAD Jig Layout to the website.
The grade is: 5 Allen Bolt, 3/16” Socket, 1/4”-20 UNC x 3-1/2” with 2” of threaded length. Heat treated, Zinc Plated.
Thank you
Charles (Kip)Porter
Kip,
Thanks. I look forward to trying some to see if I can replace my current bolts. I don't use a lot, but they are a very critical part of the component assembly.
Is there a special tool for tightening/loosening them since the socket appears to be at an angle? Such as a "ball-point" socket?
cabnet636
10-01-2015, 08:10 PM
Charles it is a long Ball joint you can use it ina ratchet or cordless, I have the setup and tomorrow I hope to get some more photos,, We got 10+ inches of rain coming so we are a little busy right now !
scottp55
10-02-2015, 10:54 AM
Thanks for the offer Kip, but looking closer at the epoxy mount from the female element, may be able to use the Star Green Glide if I frame it right and modify trim on panel.
I'll probably order a variety later this month and explore the options once I get angles and clearances figured out.
Minimum order?
Just downloaded catalog and price list, and just have to do my homework now.
Thanks,
scott
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