latest

[cowboy1296]

I do not care for this piece of black walnut but the cutting went great. with the reflection off of the clock its hard to get a good picture. This is the first stage of finishing and there is more to come.
http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=26254&stc=1

[Brady Watson]

Looks great. Guessing you finish machined the elements with an 1/8" ball?

-B

[cowboy1296]

After reviewing the preview with both the 1/8 and 1/16 I opted for the 1/16. It roughly 16.4 inches square. It took 14 hours to do the finish cutting, and yes I do use your vr settings. I like everything about it but the board, which I got from perfect plank. I wont be getting anymore black walnut from them. my supplier was out of black walnut so I took a chance. the finger joints take away from it. Thanks for your comment.

[scottp55]

Rick,
Agree on the fingerjoints, but everything you did came out Great:)
Congrats.
scott

[Brady Watson]

Spin the clock unit 180 and cover the finger joints with another design element (mirrored on both sides) to keep the eye from being drawn to it.

-B

[cowboy1296]

Great idea but it is already cut. sometimes pictures don't tell it all. it actually looks better in person then it does in pictures and is starting to grow on me. plus it is not totally finished just yet and I hope that it will look better. Its not like my living room is dark but its not as light as this picture, so the joints wont be as visible.

[Brady Watson]

I meant to cut the individual elements, then finish them to match & glue them on. Nobody but you will know...If it doesn't bother you, roll with it in the dark corner.

-B

[cowboy1296]

I have never done any gluing but that would work. but again its better in person than the picture. Thanks for the thoughts.

[genek]

Sometijmnes you can hide things with a spray on stain. Just be sure to seal good first. The spray on stain set on top of the sealer and covers everything.

[cowboy1296]

hhhhmmmm how does that work with the grain that you don't want to cover. but you got me thinking.

[Brady Watson]

Just put a NASCAR sticker over it...Problem solved! ;)

Looking at it again, it is an ideal spot to put a 'crown' of some sort that follows the same motif.

If you go the 'stain approach', avoid stain and use dye. You can mask off that entire strip and favor the light side & blend it all into one color. A piece of clear acrylic (say 1/8-1/4" sheet) laid on top of the work, and then sprayed with the dye will give you a good idea what it will look like without messing up the piece.

-B

[genek]

hhhhmmmm how does that work with the grain that you don't want to cover. but you got me thinking.

The sealer seals all the wood, so the stain lays on top of the sealer, you may need to apply a little wood filler to make sure the seams don't show. i have hide glue marks and other blimishes this way. This way the stain is even coat all over. Most good cabinet suppliers can teach you how to do this. My lacquer supplier taught me how to do this. After the stain is applied you coat it with laquer.

[myxpykalix]

I had to go look at it 3 times to try to figure out what the problem was and even when i finally saw it i thought..."that's no big deal"...
I think it looks great. We are are own worst critics. The average person would never look at the fingerjoint at the top as some kind of "flaw"
Be proud, it's beautiful!

[cowboy1296]

not sure I am the best dyer in the world. but it did seem to help. I still have one more coat to go and then it will be finished. http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=26260&stc=1

[cowboy1296]

thanks for the suggestion buys, I like what you are saying Genek. to you knowledge is there a video showing this done anywhere.

[myxpykalix]

ok now it went from very good to excellent! Where did you buy the model for the frame? Or did you make that?

[cowboy1296]

its one of the ebay files that I got months ago

[scottp55]

Excellent Rick:)

[cowboy1296]

Its finished. The dye did help hide the finger joints.http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=26344&stc=1

[Brady Watson]

Looks good. What's your sanding method prior to finishing and after the 1st coat?

-B

[cowboy1296]

needle files and a sanding mop. i use a fine grit sanding mop in between coats. I have one of those tiny toy sanders, but it really does not do that good of a job. you would think that someone would offer for sale a mini sander that would work. Speaking of needle files they range from 5 bucks to 40. who makes a good sharp file?

[elcar903]

beautiful work

[cowboy1296]

still pretty much the same. i do have a corner sander that helps since it has a point. i use a sanding mop with 250 grit. now it may smooth it a little but the needle files do the most work. then the arm a seal coating smooths it out a little.

[cowboy1296]

Tyler Texas the land of the Tyler Rose and thanks.

[Brady Watson]

These are nice, but price reflects quality of the tool: Fladder (http://www.fladder.dk/)

I've often thought of making up my own version using stuff from Stockroom Supply (http://stockroomsupply.ca/shop/sanding-mops.html) ...just haven't gotten to it yet. I absolutely hate hand sanding...which is why I try to make the machine get it as tight as possible.

-B

[cowboy1296]

i hate sanding as well, but needle files are a must. i wear a pair of way to strong reading glasses with a bright light behind me which helps to see the small fuzzies.

[scottp55]

Rick,
Eurotools is worth checking out.
http://eurotool.com/products/12PC_NEEDLE_FILE_ST_CUT_0-2524-80.html
Been using a set I bought in Tucson 15 yrs ago for soft stones and they're very tired, but I'd buy them again.
Set of smooth mini-rifflers I bought at same time from them has been discontinued, but found a set I might buy to replace mine now that I'm using them to clean up Desktop work in wood.
http://www.woodcraft.com/product/07T51/10pc-smooth-cut-riffler-file-set.aspx
Also, Just bought a 320 and 600G of these;
http://www.woodcraft.com/product/154584/performance-abrasives-new-wave-2-scuff-buff-ball-320-grit-maroon.aspx
They arrived yesterday and I chucked the 600G into the Gesswein(Foredom) at about 9K and lightly loaded it with our Linseed/Beeswax"butter".
No good for 60degree VBit button designs as it didn't get all the way in, BUT tried on a 3D Celtic and a V3M Loon button(2") and initial results were GREAT:)
Had to stop testing to finish 90 buttons with my finish apprentice(65 yr old lady that's working out fantastic).
Will try to post some before and after pics tomorrow, and it's got me thinking of making my own shapes out of 3M pads in the shapes I need.
Hope this helps at all.
scott

[Brady Watson]

I've been rockin the EuroTool files for about 15 years too...good stuff. I mainly use them for fine metal work (silver/brass/jewelry). Horrible Freight has cheaper ones which aren't too bad...plus cheap (like $3 a set) diamond files which are OK too.

-B

[scottp55]

Almost mentioned diamond mini rifflers which I use a lot for tons of stuff, but really hard to tell the grit from pics.
Got 2 almost useless sets that are too rough for most work.
1 set that was perfect, the plastic case has disintegrated and I have no idea who made them, so couldn't recommend a brand.
Diamond rifflers are great for tons of stuff if you can buy them when you have your fingernail there to test grit.
Mainly use sintered "flame" tips in the Gesswein, or for custom shapes Birch dowels sanded to shape and the pressed FIRMLY into wood with appropriate grit Corundum or Diamond powder for stone/metal work.
scott