Time to Freshen-Up

[joe]

Five years ago we made several signs for the Gilliam Ranch and received a call for a repaint. It's always lots of fun. I enjoy visiting my old signs. Here's the details.

Both of these were made from Rough Cedar purchased from Lowe's. The lumber is always wet and for years I avoided it. Big mistake. This material is cheap and comes a full 2" thick. It glue's up nicely and can be finished well even when wet. I'm not into furniture grade signs. They show age too quickly. On all my natural finished signs it's necessary to give them a touch up after a few years. The first couple of years outdoors are the toughest for them. After all they were a tree two weeks before I started. So when they settle down, getting use to their new environment, the next paint job will last. I used Sikkens on the original but now I'm going back with Nova acrylic. That's a flip of the coin. I'm almost finished with the repaint and still not sure which is best.

I'll be posting a few sanps of the completed job.

[bobmoore]

Joe, that is one of my favorite signs from you. So if you are repairing that sign after 5 years does the customer expect a free or discounted price? Does the nova paint repair over the sickens require a primer first? What was the failure or wear like (peeling, fading, or wood substrate)? Thanks if you get a chance to answer any of these wood sign questions for me.
Bob

[joe]

Happy New Year to Bob and all SBers.

Thanks for the complement. The artwork was a little time consuming. The logo came directly from a Letterhead font with a little alteration. It's the only 3D element.

I was a little surprised about the request for a repaint. This ranch is 45 minutes away and my impression was the color was a little dull. Not as bright as new but not much more than that. knowing the expected repaint time for natural finished signs was about up I priced it out. Now, should I go with a longer lasting paint or return to transparent Sikkens?

The decision was to use Nova but I'm not sure it was the best choice. Knowing it will last a good 10+, still it's not showing wood. The process was to remove the lettering, sand the raised surfaces, and prime with Rhonan block-out white. The DiBond letters didn't need anything.

The Logo "G" was painted bright yellow, once dry a thin coat of MM gold was applied. The same as I described in the earlier post about gold. After the full background coat was applied the Critter was brought out to mist on lighter and darker values to give depth. When applying shades like this it's best to mix 1/4 clear. That way you have plenty of room for mistakes. It takes lots of coats to build the subtle tones and values. You gotta play around with this and any errors can be corrected. If you aren't nervous the first time out, you're doing something wrong.http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=26934&stc=1http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=26935&stc=1

[joe]

Getting closer.

When I get to work this morning I'll finish up by applying the gold borders and load up for installation. I'm pleased with the new finish but if I was to do it again the natural Sikkens might have been a better choice. The Nova Color will outlast but in my opinion nothing beats the natural wood look. We all know the first year a sign panel is installed is the most dramatic for it. After all it was a tree weeks before it was lumbered. That leaves lots of tension and moisture adjustments for the wood. Once it's become comfortable with the new home and weather conditions a natural finish coat will last. That takes a couple of years. At this time I'm not sure which is the best choice. Then again I'm too picky.

http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=26986&stc=1

[Tim Lucas]

Looking good !

[Georgia Design Works]

That is stunning! Love the airbrush effect of shading. What is this "Critter" to which you refer? My guess is some sort of spray system?

[joe]

George,

You're on the right track with your work.

To answer your question about the Critter siphon gun, it's one of the easiest and cheapest on the market. I seldom use the air-brush when getting fades it's the Critter for delicate work. Here's a couple of hints. It has few controls so you get wider or narrow patterns buy adjusting air pressure and thickness of paint. This gun likes latex best.

One outstanding quality of the guns is you don't have to fussy about cleaning it up. There's little to mess up. It uses "Ball Canning Jars" for the paint. I buy thin by the dozen for color change fades.

By adding about 20% clear to your paint you have more fade control.

Good luck.

http://www.amazon.com/Critter-Spray-Products-22032-Siphon/dp/B00006FRPJ

[Georgia Design Works]

Thank you Sir! I just ordered my own Critter sprayer. I'm counting on the fact it likes latex. Do I need to thin the paint? I been shooting lacquer for years with an HVLP gun but latex has a much higher viscosity. Hopefully this critter is the answer.
George

[joe]

George,

You will need to thin the Latex with a small amount of water. As I mentioned before that's they way you can adjust the pattern spread. The clean up on this gun isn't any thing like a HVLP. It seldom clogs.

Happy Painting.

[Mark Owen]

Thank you Joe for reminding me I own a Critter gun. And all the wisdom you provide via this forum.
Instead of water to thin the latex or acrylic, I use winter windshield washer fluid (blue). It is almost all alcohol so it evaporates and leaves just the finish. It has not altered the colour of the paint either. I use about 2oz to 12 oz of latex @ 40 psi and it lays beautifully.

Regards
Mark

[joe]

Mark,

I've heard of that technique. Haven't tried it but I guess the advantage is the drying time. Does the paint flow out evenly when drying? Thanks for the hint.

Another techniques, which can be used with any gun, is to vary the amount of clear when blending. For years I tried reducing airflow and it kind-of works but any mistake and you start all over.

Keep up the good work.

Joe

[kurt_rose]

Thank you Joe for reminding me I own a Critter gun. And all the wisdom you provide via this forum.
Instead of water to thin the latex or acrylic, I use winter windshield washer fluid (blue). It is almost all alcohol so it evaporates and leaves just the finish. It has not altered the colour of the paint either. I use about 2oz to 12 oz of latex @ 40 psi and it lays beautifully.

Regards
Mark

Wow Mark! Thanks for that tip. I'm gonna use it today. Who would a thunk it. Wiper fluid. This should really cut down on drying times.

[curtiss]

What do you use to thin the small bottles of acrylic paint you can buy at Hobby Lobby ?

About how much of what is needed ?

Any general directory of what kind of paint to use for various tasks ??? Strong and weak points of each type ? Thanks

[joe]

Curtis,

You need to search the forum which is rich with information on this topic.

[Mark Owen]

Joe,
With windshield washer fluid it flows fine and does appear to speed up drying time.
I also took a hint from the European automotive painters who by law have to use low VOC paint. They use infrared heaters pointed at the car panels and use air movement to speed drying. So, I setup my Lee Valley infrared heater in my basement spray booth and point it at the drying rack. I get the cross flow air from the exhaust and incoming filtered air.
I also use Floetrol (spelling) on my satin paints to take some of the sheen off, especially black.
I should state, I am trying to perfect painting/priming techniques for raw MDF using low VOC paint.
My favorite primer is BIN but the cost of shellac has pushed the price to $90 Canadian. My fallback is Zinnser Cover Stain (oil based) as it builds fast and sands like BIN. And I also have good results with PPG X-Shield WB.
Top Coat, I am using PPG Breakthrough. Expensive but tough. The only downside is that it only come in satin finish.

[joe]

Mark,

Thanks for all the good information. I'm clueless about MDF since it's not used for exteriors.

I wouldn't be too concerned about a satin finish. Last week I need a semi-high gloss on my Nova paint. That was accomplished with MM's gloss varnish. Although I seldom use gloss finishes.

Have you ventured into adding textures to your finishes? That combined against a smooth surface can be impressive. Most of my work is done this way. I'm a true believer. It does take a little masking.

Joe