Exact placement of random "Butterfly" wedges easily.

[scottp55]

I know this is old hat for many, but I saw Steve G. describe it and this is the first chance to use it.
I made an Ebony piece for my Mother, and splits showed on back, so I carefully drew in the split and then made a "Twig" shaped butterfly wedge.
Made a dozen extra as long as I was set up for it.
Drawing that one was easy, but saw Steve was drawing JUST one wedge located on a small file and centering it at 0,0, and then simply moved the bit to where he wanted the inlay, and Zero his X,Y there and carve away:) ad infinitum.
Got some wet Black Walnut that was a tree in my Aunt's yard 2 months ago. I snagged a bunch of branches/firewood sized stuff, and my Uncle who just bought a portable mill took the trunk size stuff(Just turned 70, and he buys a SAWMILL:).
My Aunt saw the little live edge stuff I did for display stands, and asked if I would finish the first small slab my Uncle cut the same way.
Apparently he went a little light on the end grain coating, as it was checked to heck.
I cut most of the checking off and sanded/sealed it with Linseed/Beeswax "Butter" that has kept my small pieces from checking/splitting, but got a crack that spread 6" the first 2 days, and then kept going.
Yesterday tried Steve's method and it went SLICK as the piece is odd shaped and my wedges were small.
They're only 2X.3" deep, but should keep it from spreading I hope.
I'll probably come up with some deeper/fancier wedges once wood is dry, and I know what she wants to do with it(orientation).
My Mother said "Aaaw...it's RUINED!"
Yep, probably wind up in the scrap bin:)
Thanks Steve!
scott
I told Uncle to align logs with the crotches, lot's of double crotch in the stuff I told him to cut 10/4:)
This must have been from one of the 2 short pieces the ignorant tree guys cut to make it easier to move and cut into firewood later.

[James M]

Scott,

Those wedges are so small, did you onion skin them to hold them in place?

I think it looks neat to bad your mother disagrees.

James

[jTr]

Very cool idea making small logs - somehow I missed something if this is "old hat" - finally, something refreshing from the overdone butterfly inlay.
Idea: if you strategically placed your branch shaped stitches in Zebra wood, you could actually simulate miniature live edge slabs of walnut ( dark streaks in center, branch knots on sides blonde) If done well, some might think you took twigs from the log itself to stitch those checks.
If George Nakashima were alive, I'll bet he'd be stunned at how his original idea has become all the rage.
Thanks for posting - good work!

Jeff

[scottp55]

James,
Ace Hardware Heavy Duty indoor/outdoor fiberglas reinforced carpet tape, and Duck 30-day No Residue duct tape, on 3M Marine Waxed HDO(same as buttons and other tiny stuff). That shape was originally done with VInlay technique(VInlay on right in pic) for another piece of Walnut with a 16" split. I shrunk it and used the regular inlay function for the first time for the Ebony.
Inlay function, as even with a .0625" downcut there were spots it couldn't have cut. (VInlay had protected crack from spreading, and was still tight after 1.5 yrs even though it was CA'd)
These little ones were CA'd too, and with no pocket allowance they fit so tight the CA had no place to go on a couple, and took some beating to force it into the crack. I left them .02" proud, so that I had the option of scraping/sanding flush, or sanding them proud for a little tactile feeling like Greene Brothers.

Jeff, GOOD idea:)
Got plenty of time to think about it now, and actually DO have some branches from the same tree that split big time when they were chainsawed off. Maybe I'll make thin stock out of them, and see what I have when they're dry.
I was even thinking of VInlaying a tree/root type inlay there using the same Z2 routine, and just make it shallow.
Too many options(maybe even a piece of bark off live edge?):)
Thanks!
BTW LOVE Nakashima!!!
scott

[Tim Lucas]

Maybe try one shaped as a Band-Aid :rolleyes:

[dmidkiff]

Nice save!!! Bet your mom changes her mind.

[steve_g]

Scott…
I like your branch “butterfly” patches! Just a few comments/observations…

1.) IMHO your patches are likely more decorative than functional. In my experience, splitting wood can exert tremendous forces! The bigger the better as far as mechanical strength is concerned, also, my practice is to run my butterflies at least 75% through the wood plank. By not going through, I have additional gluing surface at the bottom of the pocket.

2.) A butterfly patch that has to be “beat” into place could actually add to the problem! Some short grain sections can break off and spoil the look… also, a joint that’s too tight will “scrape” off its glue while being inserted and starve the joint.

3.) As you mentioned, I draw a single butterfly patch vector with 0,0 at its center and re-zero wherever I want a patch. I also pre-cut many patches ahead of time without allowance. When I cut the pocket, I first cut without allowance, test fit and recut with some negative allowance (cutting the pocket slightly bigger). Typically, I’ll land up with about -.003”- .005” allowance giving me a nice snug but not tight fit. Once I figure the allowance for today’s project, I can just cut them without additional testing.

4.) At first I was leaving the remaining split open, but have since found that my customers really like it when I fill them with black epoxy.

Here’s a recent project using butterfly patches and epoxy filler. It’s a counter top extension that folds down when not in use feeding grandkids!
SG

[guitarwes]

Beautiful work. You all have given me an idea of a desk name plate/business card holder for a woodturner friend of mine. Thanks.

[scottp55]

David, My Mom is not given to type in Caps, and just got this e-mail an hour ago;
"GREAT! BEAUTIFUL!! SHE'LL LOVE IT; SO WILL A LOT OF OTHERS! NOW WE'LL HAVE TO SEE WHERE SHE'LL DISPLAY IT; HOPEFULLY, NOT IN HER BARN."
Yep, my Aunt was going to stick it in her Barn, just because the tree came from the yard.
Trying to change her mind into a bench like Brian does, or at least SOMETHING that people can appreciate.
(Mom didn't change her mind until I sent her this "Nakashima butterfly joint" link and some Nakashima table prices....then she knew it was acceptable practice:)
https://www.google.com/search?q=nakashima+butterfly+joint&num=20&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj2ne7RlMvOAhUEOiYKHQBmAtcQ_AUICSgC&biw=1366&bih=628
I was VERY surprised to see my very first Paduak Vinlay "Vulture" on the page:) (Don't notice that the grain direction is wrong! It was my very first VInlay and I mucked up:(

Steve, thanks a lot for the further tips!
Crack had grown 2" overnight, and we had thunderstorms predicted for that afternoon, so just went with the Maple inserts that were already cut.
I'm watching it like a hawk, and drawing bigger/different wedges, and will cut males as soon as I can.
Good thing about 3/4's of the depth, as obviously 1 face is better. Bigger wedges will be cut through the small ones on the poorer face, and wood finished out as 1.25" thick.
I was really worried about sticking dry maple inlay into wet Walnut and creating new cracks as Walnut dried.
Cracks were growing daily, and have stopped for 2 days, so I'll just watch it as it dries.
Most went in slick/easy with my 4oz deadblow...only where glue had no place to go fast was beating required to force glue out.
Beautiful work as always:)
scott

[8Ball]

Scott…
I like your branch “butterfly” patches! Just a few comments/observations…

1.) IMHO your patches are likely more decorative than functional. In my experience, splitting wood can exert tremendous forces! The bigger the better as far as mechanical strength is concerned, also, my practice is to run my butterflies at least 75% through the wood plank. By not going through, I have additional gluing surface at the bottom of the pocket.

2.) A butterfly patch that has to be “beat” into place could actually add to the problem! Some short grain sections can break off and spoil the look… also, a joint that’s too tight will “scrape” off its glue while being inserted and starve the joint.

3.) As you mentioned, I draw a single butterfly patch vector with 0,0 at its center and re-zero wherever I want a patch. I also pre-cut many patches ahead of time without allowance. When I cut the pocket, I first cut without allowance, test fit and recut with some negative allowance (cutting the pocket slightly bigger). Typically, I’ll land up with about -.003”- .005” allowance giving me a nice snug but not tight fit. Once I figure the allowance for today’s project, I can just cut them without additional testing.

4.) At first I was leaving the remaining split open, but have since found that my customers really like it when I fill them with black epoxy.

Here’s a recent project using butterfly patches and epoxy filler. It’s a counter top extension that folds down when not in use feeding grandkids!
SG


I would like to see a pic from underneath, showing how it's mounted and how the brackets get tucked away when it's folded down.;)

[steve_g]

I’ll eventually get you an image and some drawings of how that was done… I’m laid up with a rotator cuff repair right now however. Might be a week or two.
SG

[steve_g]

http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=28778&stc=1http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=28779&stc=1http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=28780&stc=1As asked for… Here’s how I made the fold down countertop extension hardware.
These photos were taken in process and of course show the extension upside down.
The existing countertop overhung its base by 5”, my extension comes out from underneath the existing, so I had plenty of depth to work with. Rather than screw my hinges directly to my customers tiled wall, I made a wood base using half-lap joints where the vertical parts intersected with the horizontal one.
I’m comfortable welding… it’s how I worked my way through college. I buy the components to build brackets with from http://www.kingmetals.com/Home.aspx.
The hinges aren’t lightweight HD ones, but the type you’d buy at a “Metal Mart” type of supplier, they are welded to the brackets.
The back edge of the slab was ripped off enough to give clearance for the folded in brackets, and hinged back on with a heavy duty continuous hinge. Since the original countertop had 5” of overhang, the hinge is hidden from view and I didn’t need to deal with a gain. I mounted the hinge, barrel and all, flush to the slab, so that the hinged brackets wouldn’t catch on it.

Feel free to ask questions if I haven’t explained something!
SG

[scottp55]

Looks Good Steve! :)
Unfortunately you in Your hardware DON'T:(
Get better soon!
scott